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Re: I changed p&c and head in engine - No valve gap!! WHY??
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CarGuru > Volkswagen > Re: I changed p&c and head in engine - No valve gap!! WHY?? 31 March 2005 17:38:31

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Re: I changed p&c and head in engine - No valve gap!! WHY??

Jd-Drafter@Home 31 March 2005 17:38:31
 i seem to recall that there are actually shims that are made to go under the
rocker arms- sort of a wave washer? it's been a while but what you describe
makes sense... shorter cylinders... or deeper cuts on the heads-

jjd


"Matt S" <MDSMSS02@MSN.COM> wrote in message
news:1112232491.668­918.65110@z14g2000cw­z.googlegroups.com..­.> Hi,>
Well, I replaced the pistons and heads in my bug, and now when I> adjust the valves, I find I'm running out of screw and on one valve in> particular, it is the rocker arm that is pressing against the valve> spring with a gap 0.004.> My engine is a Mexican engine> I bought Mahle forged pistons, stock size.> I bought new stock size heads which turned out to be made in Brazil (> seemed kind of cheap as compared to the Mex heads with 3/4 inch deep> plug holes, and seemingly more solid casting)> I replaced the pushrods with EMPI steel rods which when I compared> to my "stock" pushrods they looked to be the same length.> I put the rubber gasket on the rocker arm studs, and re-used the Mex> rocker arms.> Everything was torqued properly> Now when I go to adjust the valves @ 0.006, I find that the> adjusting screws for each valve are just about backed out all the way,> just litte threads are noticed through the rocker arm. One of the> adjusting screws is all the way out and the rocker arm itself is giving> about 0.004 gap to the valve cap.> Ok, so I put the engine in the car and ran it with the hope that this> would somehow give me some more play, but the valves just got tighter.> SO I learned that lesson - car ran great though.>
It seems for things to give no or very little valve lash - it would> have to be,,> 1) pushrods are too long - don't think this is the case - they are> seem exact by eye compared to the original ones.> 2) The distance between the block and the outside of the head is> shorter - but why would this be?> Could it be cheap quality heads? - not having the correct flycut> depth? ( into the piston too far?).> I would think the pistons are the correct length.>
Are the rocker arms now of an improper size with this combination?>
How can I solve this? What would be the consequence of putting a thin> shim under the rocker arms - where it bolts to the head? That should> afford me clearance -> argh.. but something is not right?> Am I missing something?>
Thanks so very much!>
Matt S>


Add comment
Vassilis Spiliotopoulos 31 March 2005 17:38:31 permanent link ]
 Try using the stock pushrods. They are better anyway.
The new ones might seem to have the same length, but the ball ends might
have slightly different diameters, so the pushrods don't seat properlly in
the rocker pocket or the lifter pocket. Also check that they were properlly
seated in the first place.

If you find that you have the same problem with the stock pushrods, then you
will have to cut the pushrods to the correct length.

Bill,
'67 Bug.

"Matt S" <MDSMSS02@MSN.COM> wrote in message
news:1112232491.668­918.65110@z14g2000cw­z.googlegroups.com..­.> Hi,>
Well, I replaced the pistons and heads in my bug, and now when I> adjust the valves, I find I'm running out of screw and on one valve in> particular, it is the rocker arm that is pressing against the valve> spring with a gap 0.004.> My engine is a Mexican engine> I bought Mahle forged pistons, stock size.> I bought new stock size heads which turned out to be made in Brazil (> seemed kind of cheap as compared to the Mex heads with 3/4 inch deep> plug holes, and seemingly more solid casting)> I replaced the pushrods with EMPI steel rods which when I compared> to my "stock" pushrods they looked to be the same length.> I put the rubber gasket on the rocker arm studs, and re-used the Mex> rocker arms.> Everything was torqued properly> Now when I go to adjust the valves @ 0.006, I find that the> adjusting screws for each valve are just about backed out all the way,> just litte threads are noticed through the rocker arm. One of the> adjusting screws is all the way out and the rocker arm itself is giving> about 0.004 gap to the valve cap.> Ok, so I put the engine in the car and ran it with the hope that this> would somehow give me some more play, but the valves just got tighter.> SO I learned that lesson - car ran great though.>
It seems for things to give no or very little valve lash - it would> have to be,,> 1) pushrods are too long - don't think this is the case - they are> seem exact by eye compared to the original ones.> 2) The distance between the block and the outside of the head is> shorter - but why would this be?> Could it be cheap quality heads? - not having the correct flycut> depth? ( into the piston too far?).> I would think the pistons are the correct length.>
Are the rocker arms now of an improper size with this combination?>
How can I solve this? What would be the consequence of putting a thin> shim under the rocker arms - where it bolts to the head? That should> afford me clearance -> argh.. but something is not right?> Am I missing something?>
Thanks so very much!>
Matt S>


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CarGuru > Volkswagen > Re: I changed p&c and head in engine - No valve gap!! WHY?? 31 March 2005 17:38:31

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