The block in my buggy is from a 70 T2 and I've just replaced the 009 with > the diz that came with the engine. I've determined that it is the > correct unit for this engine and timing should be set at 0 degrees. When > I adjusted the valves I made sure that the rotor was coming around to #1, > and turned the pulley so that the notch lined up with the crack in the > case. From here using the pencil-in-the-spark­-plug-hole method I found > actual top of the piston stroke to be about an inch to the right of the > notch. I made a mark here and used it and a mark I made 180 degrees from > it to do my valve adjusting. >

Now I adjusted the points and statically set the timing to the mark I had > made, an inch or so right of the pulley notch. Acceleration was poor, it > was popping at idle, etc. I set up the carb using info here: > http://www.vw-resou­rce.com/34pict3.html­> Things were a little better but not much. After reading something > somewhere I decided to set the timing by advancing it until I got my > highest idle, then backing it off a bit. Suddenly the car ran better!>

So here's the question: Timed like this I'm almost 3 inches away from > the mark I made for TDC and 4 inches from the pulley notch. The car does > accelerate well but it's still not super smooth at idle. Is this likely > to be the right spot? Is it possible that my pulley is 'on wrong?' >

Sounds like you did everything right.>

I wonder if the vac advance unit is working properly.> If I'm not mistaken, that distrib is all vac, no centrif advance.>

Suck on the vac hose and watch the advance plate;> it should move to the stop and stay there.>

Also possible that you're not getting enough vac from> the carb port.> You really need a strobe timing light at this point to> verify advance.>

Speedy Jim> http://www.nls.net/­mp/volks/>

Thanks for your reply. The plate moves when sucked and seems to be > working well. When I had the 009 in there the timing worked out best at > roughly the same 'spot on the dial.' I have been using the strobe timing > light and when revved the pulley marks do move a lot... >

What now?

Is there any small chance that you set the> static timing when the points CLOSE rather> than when they open??>

If your pencil test was anywhere near correct> (I have no reason to doubt it), then initial> timing 3" ahead of TDC doesn not add up.>

Speedy Jim> http://www.nls.net/­mp/volks/

I'm pretty sure I set the static timing right, I drive an old notch daily > and am accustomed to how the light reacts...>

However now that you mention it when I was setting the static timing > something weird was happening. I start by making sure the rotor is > heading up to the #1 plug wire then I set up my light then turn the > engine clockwise until the light comes on. On my T3 (6V using a 12v test > lamp) the light is out until I hit the spot and it lights up. On the > buggy the light was on dimly as soon as I hooked it up. It flashed on > nice and bright when I hit 'the spot.' It seemed strange to me but I > figured it was probably different than usual because I'm normally using > the 12V lamp to test a 6V system. What do you suppose this means?

Dim light would mean the points aren't closing "tightly" (poor> contact). Or something else is going on.> Worth going over with a fine-tooth.> Something smelleth.