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New user is working on the bug, but having some trouble
Jeveretts 12 March 2005 05:29:18
	Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT, and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely, and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history. Jerry
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Speedy Jim 12 March 2005 05:48:23 [ permanent link ]
	Jeveretts wrote:> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.> Jerry Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light. Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official Manual for '70 thru '79. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
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Jeveretts 12 March 2005 08:28:57 [ permanent link ]
	On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim <volks@nls.net> wrote: Jeveretts wrote:>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a>> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,>> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it>> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able>> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum>> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on>> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb>> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left>> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to>> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no>> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set>> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and>> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good>> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a>> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best>> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,>> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would>> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my>> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.>> Jerry> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official> Manual for '70 thru '79.> Speedy Jim>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in the engine case (12 oclock)?
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Kevin Holzer 12 March 2005 15:58:18 [ permanent link ]
	Jeveretts wrote:> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim <volks@nls.net> wrote:> Jeveretts wrote:>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a>>>bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,>>>and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it>>>running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able>>>to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum>>>dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on>>>my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb>>>ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left>>>(advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to>>>get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no>>>matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set>>>the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and>>>smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good>>>throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a>>>few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best>>>way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,>>>and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would>>>really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my>>>mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.>>> Jerry>> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.>> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official>> Manual for '70 thru '79.>> Speedy Jim>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/> OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in> the engine case (12 oclock)? Set which mark? Yes, you set it to the split in the case. The mark is TDC and probably not your timing mark. Get a protractor.
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Speedy Jim 12 March 2005 18:09:31 [ permanent link ]
	Kevin Holzer wrote:> Jeveretts wrote:> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:48:23 -0500, Speedy Jim <volks@nls.net> wrote:>> Jeveretts wrote:>>> Here's where we are, I bought the '72 Super with a 1600DP, I put on a>>>> bugpack header and turbo muffler, removed the incorrect 30/31 PICT,>>>> and put a very good used 34PICT-3 on in it's place. Iv'e got it>>>> running pretty well, and it is very driveable, I can't seem to be able>>>> to get the timing right unless I do it by ear, I have a dual vacuum>>>> dizzy. I put the timing light on the front passenger side wire (#1 on>>>> my vanagon I think), disconnected the vacuum hoses and pluged the carb>>>> ports. and the notch in the pulley stays about 1 inch to the left>>>> (advance) when it is running good. If I retard the timing enough to>>>> get the notch in the center, the engine will die, this happens no>>>> matter how the carb is set up. I threw the timing light out, and set>>>> the carb and timing by ear, and I have it running pretty good and>>>> smooth, only problem is a slight rough sounding idle, but good>>>> throttle respone, and if you rev it, it tends to linger at high idle a>>>> few seconds and then settle back down to normal idle. Oh and the best>>>> way I found to tune it was to remove the vacuum retard line entirely,>>>> and plug that port at the carb. Since this is my first bug, I would>>>> really like to hear what seasoned experts have to say about my>>>> mis-adventures into automotive mechanical history.>>>> Jerry>>> Both vac lines MUST be connected to set timing with strobe light.>>> Since you're new, strongly suggest getting the Bentley Official>>> Manual for '70 thru '79.>>> Speedy Jim>>> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/>> OK, so, putting both vac lines on, do I set the mark to the split in>> the engine case (12 oclock)?> Set which mark? Yes, you set it to the split in the case. The mark is > TDC and probably not your timing mark. Get a protractor. Kevin has a fair point. Some pulleys (not all) have a TDC "dimple" on the side facing you. The "timing mark" is a notch on the pulley side facing forward. But you can't count on it. There were so many pulleys used on VW's and all with different marks. Best to verify TDC (pencil in the spark plug hole, or other trick) and protract off the req'd degrees. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
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Michael Cecil 12 March 2005 22:53:02 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 09:22:09 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" <j.michael.elliottAT@REMOVETHEOBVIOUSgmailDOT.com> wrote: Um, just to help this fellow not to make the same boneheaded mistake /I/ >made (and for which I was briefly famous hereabouts): don't use a pencil >-- they can snap off in the cylinder. Don't ask me how I know: search >the archives. Use some difficult-to-break rod-shaped thingy like a >plastic drinking straw; don't use a screwdriver or anything that can >gouge the top of the piston. How about a length of the fiberglass rod they use to mount safety flags on kid's bicycles? -- Michael Cecil http://home.comcast.net/~macecil/ 1970 VW Beetle "Millennium Sparrow"
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Jeveretts 13 March 2005 00:52:31 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 12:53:02 -0600, Michael Cecil <macecil@comcast.net> wrote: On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 09:22:09 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"><j.michael.elliottAT@REMOVETHEOBVIOUSgmailDOT.com> wrote:> Um, just to help this fellow not to make the same boneheaded mistake /I/ >>made (and for which I was briefly famous hereabouts): don't use a pencil >>-- they can snap off in the cylinder. Don't ask me how I know: search >>the archives. Use some difficult-to-break rod-shaped thingy like a >>plastic drinking straw; don't use a screwdriver or anything that can >>gouge the top of the piston.> How about a length of the fiberglass rod they use to mount safety flags on>kid's bicycles? Well... I got it running like a new car, went to my local old excessivly hairy German parts guy, bought a 009, put it in, took the pict34 off and riveted the hole in the throttle plate, put it back on, set the timing to 'around' 7-8 degrees to the left of tdc, adjusted the carb via instructions on the internet, and it idles like a new car, had a bit of hesitation at low RMP, fattened up the mixture screw a bit and voila! nice running bug! Thanks Jerry
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