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Brake problem
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CarGuru > Toyota > Brake problem 14 June 2008 18:25:53

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Brake problem

Webbi Surfer 14 June 2008 18:25:53
 I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of
driving by themselves.

I does not have anti lock brakes.

Thanks in advance.

Add comment
Davidj92 24 April 2005 22:50:40 permanent link ]
 webbi surfer wrote:> I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of> driving by themselves.>
I does not have anti lock brakes.>
Thanks in advance.

Several things could cause this.
Old fluid with high moisture content can cause brakes to drag.
Brakes dragging due to sticking hardware will cause excess heat which will
boil the fluid and apply brakes.
A bad master cylinder can stick and cause brakes to drag.
A bad hose internally can cause brakes to drag.
A bad vacumm booster can stick and cause brakes to drag.
If you don't have the skills to check these items I recommend taking to shop
of your choice.
HTH, davidj92


Add comment
Webbi Surfer 25 April 2005 00:16:06 permanent link ]
 Thank you David,it's driving me nuts.

The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before.

We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and it
still does it.

Add comment
Daniel 25 April 2005 02:33:57 permanent link ]
 Never had this happen but have heard of it happening to others:
Replace the flexible lines to the wheels.
Those flex lines can have a portion come loose internally that blocks
the flow of hydraulic fluid, so after applying the brakes for a while
they won't release because the pressure can't escape back through those
lines.
A good mechanic should be familiar with this phenomenon.

Add comment
Hopkins 25 April 2005 16:48:09 permanent link ]
 I'd go through the checklist davidj92 provided, starting with bleeding
all 4 lines and continuing on to the next cheapest item on the list.

Add comment
Davidj92 27 April 2005 01:53:46 permanent link ]
 webbi surfer wrote:> Thank you David,it's driving me nuts.>
The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before.>
We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and> it still does it.

If your mechanic has never heard of dragging brakes and can't diagnose you
need a new mechanic. If he's never heard of a vacuum booster causing a brake
drag then he may not be so bad as a lot of mechanics haven't.
As another poster suggested, start by bleeding your brakes. Bleed in the
order RR, LR, RF and then LF. Bleed until fluid runs clear, monitoring fluid
level in master cylinder to make sure you don't get air in lines.
This is a good time to check slides or slide pins on calipers to see if they
are dry. If so, this can cause drag, brake lube will solve this.
When you test drive, if the brakes drag again, try pulling up on the brake
pedal with your foot. If this releases the drag then you probably have a bad
master cylinder or booster. More likely a master cylinder. Usually when the
booster is bad you can hear a vacuum leak and if you disconnect the vacuum
then the problem goes away.
If not then when brakes start to drag, stop and crack each bleeder screw. If
there is a lot of pressure and brake fluid sprays out under pressure then
the flexible hose is bad internally causing pressure to hold.
HTH, davidj92


Add comment
Nick n Kentucky 27 April 2005 03:16:52 permanent link ]
 David,
when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so minutes
of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving.
Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels?

Thanks

Add comment
Davidj92 28 April 2005 13:59:24 permanent link ]
 Yes, the flexible hoses that go to the wheels from the frame.

Nick n Kentucky wrote:> David,> when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so> minutes of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving.> Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels?>
Thanks


Add comment
Ammonman 5 October 2005 05:06:55 permanent link ]
 Check the pins that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. The caliper
should move easily in the bracket. If it does not, the pins are probably
rusted in place. Replace the pins and rubber boots for the pins. Clean the
holes for the pins thoughroughly, removing all rust and dirt. Be sure to
liberally coat the new pins with silicone grease or anti-sieze paste to keep
them from sticking.

YMMV

AmmonMan
"gearshift" <hotred1@earthlink.­net> wrote in message
news:5c7a26b78e5fe3­83739db06f498913b7@l­ocalhost.talkaboutau­tos.com...> 1994 honda accord EX - I removed the left rear caliper and noticed that
half of the inner pad was glazed and the other half was brand new. Could> this indicate a bad caliper.>


Add comment
Jasen 28 February 2006 01:42:41 permanent link ]
 Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn'­t seem to be a vehicle
maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it.
Hope you can help though.
Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been
squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic about
it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal at
the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud for
something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern to
have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not
applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or
hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the disc(s)
might be glazed?? Any thoughts?
As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and
this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this be
done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I
thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced?
thanks,
Cheers,
Jasen


Add comment
Davek 28 February 2006 11:52:37 permanent link ]
 
"Jasen" <jasen1970@ozemail.­com.au> wrote in message
news:44038062$0$308­77$5a62ac22@per-qv1-­newsreader-01.iinet.­net.au...> Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn'­t seem to be a vehicle > maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. > Hope you can help though.> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been > squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit .

That's 56,000 miles in real money. Time to change the pads (maybe the discs
too).
There are usually anti-squeal shims at the back of the brake pads-just a
piece of thin springy metal. Make sure they're fitted and put a smear of
grease on them.
I'd service the auto transmission as per the book.
DaveK.


Add comment
Jasen 28 February 2006 12:14:22 permanent link ]
 
"davek" <davek@brentmere53.­fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:du130q$h8d$1@n­ewsg2.svr.pol.co.uk.­..>
"Jasen" <jasen1970@ozemail.­com.au> wrote in message > news:44038062$0$308­77$5a62ac22@per-qv1-­newsreader-01.iinet.­net.au...>> Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn'­t seem to be a vehicle >> maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. >> Hope you can help though.>> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been >> squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit .>
That's 56,000 miles in real money. Time to change the pads (maybe the > discs too).> There are usually anti-squeal shims at the back of the brake pads-just a > piece of thin springy metal. Make sure they're fitted and put a smear of > grease on them.> I'd service the auto transmission as per the book.> DaveK.

Thanks Dave. Will check it out. Had front pads changed 20000kms, oh
sorry......12427.4 miles ago in real money ;-P , but I think it is the rear
that produces noise. Anyway, going to get a second opinion from another
mechanic if that's what it takes.


Add comment
Gazzafield 28 February 2006 13:34:53 permanent link ]
 On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:42:41 +1000, Jasen wrote:
Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn'­t seem to be a vehicle > maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. > Hope you can help though.> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been > squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic about > it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal at > the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud for > something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern to > have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not > applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or > hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the disc(s) > might be glazed?? Any thoughts?> As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and > this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this be > done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I > thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced?




There's a bit of squeal at the start said your mechanic? He may have
fitted new pads or discs or both. Did he?

Add comment
Jasen 28 February 2006 20:21:27 permanent link ]
 
"gazzafield" <rufty_tufty_hoolyt­hug@nospam.thankyou.­says_I.ko> wrote in
message news:p­an.2006.02.28­.10.34.52.626921@nos­pam.thankyou.says_I.­ko...> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:42:41 +1000, Jasen wrote:>
Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn'­t seem to be a vehicle>> maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it.>> Hope you can help though.>> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been>> squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic >> about>> it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal >> at>> the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud >> for>> something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern >> to>> have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not>> applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or>> hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the >> disc(s)>> might be glazed?? Any thoughts?>> As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and>> this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this >> be>> done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I>> thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced?>
There's a bit of squeal at the start said your mechanic? He may have> fitted new pads or discs or both. Did he?

no, he didn't do anything. I asked him to check out the brakes because of
the squeal I was hearing and he said it was fine when I picked the car up.
I am guessing someone took it for a test drive and heard very little.....but
that's the whole point. They wouldn't have heard very much if the test drive
only went around the block once or twice. Once the brakes, front or back I
am not sure which, have been used a reasonable amount in stop start traffic
or down hills, that's when the squealing starts and it present with light to
moderate brake pressure but not when applying them harder. Does that shed
any more light on it?
Cheers,
Jasen


Add comment
Bucket 28 February 2006 21:02:25 permanent link ]
 I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job. As
I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of the
brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?

If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of
curiousity.

Rdgs
Bucket


Add comment
A.N.Other 28 February 2006 21:53:08 permanent link ]
 Don't know how they work, but you can get a pink rubbery liquids to squirt
on the pad to do the same thing. Don't know haw that works either.

"Bucket" <nospam@nospam.com>­ wrote in message
news:120941pc7hapje­2@corp.supernews.com­...> I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job.
I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of
brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?>
If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of> curiousity.>
Rdgs> Bucket>


Add comment
Chris Whelan 28 February 2006 21:57:20 permanent link ]
 Bucket wrote:
I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job.> As I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back> of the brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?>
If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of> curiousity.>
Rdgs> Bucket

Presumably the squealing is caused by vibration induced in the pad causing
it to move backwards and forwards quickly. The methods used to minimise
this are based on either damping the vibration with a spring, or providing
less frictional resistance to the things around the pad that it is in
contact with.

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Add comment
Chris Whelan 28 February 2006 22:16:21 permanent link ]
 (Top posting corrected)
"Bucket" <nospam@nospam.com>­ wrote in message> news:120941pc7hapje­2@corp.supernews.com­...>> I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job.> As>> I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of> the>> brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?>>
If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of>> curiousity.>>
Rdgs>> Bucket>>
a.n.other wrote:
Don't know how they work, but you can get a pink rubbery liquids to squirt> on the pad to do the same thing. Don't know haw that works either.

Presumably in the same way that applying a high temperature grease (eg
Copaslip) or using the self-adhesive anti-squeal tape does. It allows the
vibration-induced movement, but limits the ability of that movement to
create the sound.

Imagine the screech that scraping your finger nails down a blackboard makes.
Now put something slippery in between and it won't make a sound.

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Add comment
Bucket 1 March 2006 17:36:29 permanent link ]
 
"Chris Whelan" <cawhelan@prejudice­ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:k21Nf.55397$K4­2.40387@newsfe7-win.­ntli.net...
Presumably the squealing is caused by vibration induced in the pad causing> it to move backwards and forwards quickly. The methods used to minimise> this are based on either damping the vibration with a spring, or providing> less frictional resistance to the things around the pad that it is in> contact with.>
Chris>
--> Remove prejudice to reply.

Thanks for that

I think I get it now???

I had thought the pad was fixed ridgidly as far as side to side and up and
down motion were concerned, but now realise there must be a tiny amount of
movement on the pins its secured with (hole clearances around pins must
allow a tiny bit of movement). I suppose there is very fast miniscule
movement from the pad and the back of the pad rubs against the piston. I can
now see how the shim stops this rubbing and the squeeling noise.

Thanks guys
Bucket


Add comment
Hp 6 March 2006 05:03:02 permanent link ]
 I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared????????­???


Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be
depressed.
Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.


Add comment
Guest 6 March 2006 06:15:15 permanent link ]
 On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yah­oo.com>
wrote:
I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared????????­???>
Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be>depressed.>Power­ not working? Both brake warning light stay light.>Any suggestions?>Thanks­.>
ABS? Abominable braking system.
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX­.com ***
Add comment


Hp 6 March 2006 17:18:12 permanent link ]
 Yes it has ABS. The ABS light and the brake light stay lite.

Thanks.


<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:49an02d3g12kpf­58t6024oe16a15n6cpva­@4ax.com...> On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yah­oo.com>> wrote:>
I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared????????­???> >
Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be> >depressed.> >Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.> >Any suggestions?> >Thanks.> >
ABS? Abominable braking system.> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
http://www.SecureIX­.com ***


Add comment
Guest 6 March 2006 20:14:13 permanent link ]
 On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 09:18:12 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yah­oo.com>
wrote:
Yes it has ABS. The ABS light and the brake light stay lite.>
Thanks.>
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message>news:49an02­d3g12kpf58t6024oe16a­15n6cpva@4ax.com...>­> On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yah­oo.com>>> wrote:>>
I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared????????­???>> >
Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be>> >depressed.>> >Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.>> >Any suggestions?>> >Thanks.>> >
ABS? Abominable braking system.>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from>http://www.Sec­ureIX.com ***>
You will need to have the ABS diagnosis done to find out what the
problem is.
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX­.com ***
Add comment


Philip Trenholme 18 May 2006 03:39:16 permanent link ]
 
Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow
speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for
a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a
faulty booster cause this?

Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes.

Phil
Add comment
Philip Trenholme 18 May 2006 03:55:18 permanent link ]
 
Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow
speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for
a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a
faulty booster cause this?

Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes.

Phil
Add comment


AZ Nomad 18 May 2006 04:22:18 permanent link ]
 On Wed, 17 May 2006 16:55:18 -0700, Philip Trenholme <dim1@comcast.net> wrote:


Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow>speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for>a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a>faulty booster cause this?
Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes.

you have air in the line

take it to a qualified mechanic to bleed the system.
Or read a book.
Add comment
TeGGeR® 18 May 2006 05:53:13 permanent link ]
 Philip Trenholme <dim1@comcast.net> wrote in
news:rudn62lcslptsp­1l40hj5esaf9uu3d8a9f­@4ax.com:
Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow> speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for> a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a> faulty booster cause this?


A faulty booster will cause a hard pedal. See AZ Nomad's post.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hond­afaq/
Add comment
Guest 12 August 2006 08:48:21 permanent link ]
 After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front
pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did
not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads.
Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a
slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise
sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel.

Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to
them. Any ideas.

If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes.

Thank you......Joe
Add comment
SnoMan 12 August 2006 15:44:24 permanent link ]
 On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 00:48:21 -0400, Joe096@optonline.ne­t wrote:
After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front>pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did>not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads.>Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a>slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise>sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel.>
Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to>them. Any ideas. >
If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes.>
Thank you......Joe


Yes bleed the system because when you collapsed the calipers to change
pads you may have pushed some fluid out of reservoir and now your are
low on fluid.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Add comment
Steve B . 12 August 2006 16:13:02 permanent link ]
 On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 00:48:21 -0400, Joe096@optonline.ne­t wrote:
After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front>pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did>not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads.>Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a>slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise>sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel.>
Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to>them. Any ideas. >
If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes.>
Thank you......Joe

My best guess would be that you upset the proportioning valve when you
forced the fluid back out of the calipers back to the master cylinder.
With the engine running hit the brakes a couple of times as hard and
as fast as you can. The sudden movement of brake fluid is often
enough to reset the proportioning valve.

Steve B.
Add comment
L.W.Hughes III 13 June 2008 10:17:51 permanent link ]
 Hi Axel,
His rotors are warped, again. Check to see if his calipers have been
replaced under warranty: http://www.wjjeeps.­com/brakes.htm The replacement
"Akebono" calipers are in Silver color. Also, they don't have the spring
retainers to hold the brake pads. Teves has an open-sided caliper bracket
while Akebono is fully closed style. And will look like:
http://www.billhugh­es.com/WJcaliper.jpg­
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd@­aol.com

"axel" <ulrich.axel@gmail.­com> wrote in message
news:d7f84be1-a7be-­4df7-89f0-facc9b1272­87@l64g2000hse.googl­egroups.com...
2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles
When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling
as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car
shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about
1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was
not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from
a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half
the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how
better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth
in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while
breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not
checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to
him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call
for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any
idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there
be something else wrong than the breaks?
Axel


** Posted from http://www.teranews­.com **
Add comment
John 13 June 2008 16:29:17 permanent link ]
 Axel,
I had the same problem in my 99 GC. After three sets of OEM rotors I gave
up and bought the Stillen cross-drilled/slott­ed rotors and pads. Not cheap
but they fixed the problem (about $350). No more shake and better stopping
with Stillen brakes. I cant say enough about this upgrade. It completely
cured my problem.

Make sure you have the new Akebono type calipers upgrade. See first link
below, which explains the problem and explains the TSB that upgrades to
Akebono calipers. Then see a review of the Stillen rotors (second link)
Then buy them (third link). Best $350 you'll ever spend.

http://www.wjjeeps.­com/brakes.htm
http://www.4x4wire.­com/reviews/stillenr­otors/
http://www.stillen.­com


"axel" <ulrich.axel@gmail.­com> wrote in message
news:d7f84be1-a7be-­4df7-89f0-facc9b1272­87@l64g2000hse.googl­egroups.com...
2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles
When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling
as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car
shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about
1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was
not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from
a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half
the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how
better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth
in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while
breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not
checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to
him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call
for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any
idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there
be something else wrong than the breaks?
Axel

Add comment
Mike Romain 13 June 2008 17:55:37 permanent link ]
 If the mentioned brake work has been done, then the vehicle is likely
the recipient of a gorilla with an air impact gun.

It seems like the latest Scam, but these fools are hammering on the
wheel lug nuts in 'supposedly' routine tire rotations which will warp
the rotors bad.

They then expect to make $$$$ off the 'fake' brake job now induced.

They try to cover their asses by saying, 'ya but I used a torque stick'
on my air hammer. BS is the only call there, a brand 'New' 'torque
stick' has at 'least' a +/- 15% tolerance, most have 20%. This quite
plainly means, in the hands of an 'expert', the torque on a 100 ft lb
nut can be anywhere from 85 ft lb to 115. This 30 to 40 foot pound
difference is easily enough of a difference to warp the rotor.

The only proper way to put on 'modern' tires, well since they started
teaching the proper way back in the 1970's when aluminum wheels came in,
is to put them on with the gun if you want and to 'finish' them with a
proper torque wrench.

ALL the garages I use, Jeep shops included use a torque wrench to finish
the wheel lug nuts. If they didn't, they would lose me as a customer
and they 'don't' know this...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainje­eptrips.shutterfly.c­om

axel wrote:
2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles
When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling
as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car
shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about
1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was
not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from
a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half
the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how
better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth
in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while
breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not
checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to
him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call
for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any
idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there
be something else wrong than the breaks?
Axel
Add comment
DougW 14 June 2008 03:51:56 permanent link ]
 John wrote:
Axel,
I had the same problem in my 99 GC. After three sets of OEM rotors I
gave up and bought the Stillen cross-drilled/slott­ed rotors and pads.
Not cheap but they fixed the problem (about $350). No more shake and
better stopping with Stillen brakes. I cant say enough about this
upgrade. It completely cured my problem.

Yep, got mine from Kolak.
Higly recomended if he is still around.
http://www.nagca.co­m/grandlinks/
Scroll down to multitronics.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggl­es.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!


Add comment
Mike Romain 14 June 2008 18:25:53 permanent link ]
 Motorhead Lawyer wrote:
On Jun 13, 8:55 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.­ca> wrote:
If the mentioned brake work has been done, then the vehicle is likely
the recipient of a gorilla with an air impact gun.
It seems like the latest Scam, but these fools are hammering on the
wheel lug nuts in 'supposedly' routine tire rotations which will warp
the rotors bad.
They then expect to make $$$$ off the 'fake' brake job now induced.
I think you give them too much credit. Anyone smart enough to know
this can happen is also smart enough not to do it. You only
'discover' it by being stupid.
They try to cover their asses by saying, 'ya but I used a torque stick'
on my air hammer. BS is the only call there, a brand 'New' 'torque
stick' has at 'least' a +/- 15% tolerance, most have 20%. This quite
plainly means, in the hands of an 'expert', the torque on a 100 ft lb
nut can be anywhere from 85 ft lb to 115. This 30 to 40 foot pound
difference is easily enough of a difference to warp the rotor.
Ummm, Romain, the tolerance is not between uses of the *same* stick;
it's tolerances between *different* ones. Using the same torque stick
will yield the same torque every time within a foot-pound or two.
Further, the tolerance is more like 3%. Do a search. Torque wrenches
are inaccurate, too.
--
C.R. Krieger

No, this was discussed on the auto tech group and my numbers are right
and were searched.

The 'tolerances' for a torque stick are +/- 15% for an 'expensive' one
and this means a +/- 15% on each 'use' with an 'expert', not on each
stick. It's the hammer.

This is unlike a torque wrench that has the tolerance set the same for
each wrench because of the 'Hammering' action of the 'impact' gun.

I have worked with these things for years.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainje­eptrips.shutterfly.c­om
Add comment
 

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CarGuru > Toyota > Brake problem 14 June 2008 18:25:53

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