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CarGuru > Toyota > Brake problem 14 June 2008 18:25:53

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Brake problem
Webbi Surfer 14 June 2008 18:25:53
	I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of driving by themselves. I does not have anti lock brakes. Thanks in advance.
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Davidj92 24 April 2005 22:50:40 [ permanent link ]
	webbi surfer wrote:> I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of> driving by themselves.> I does not have anti lock brakes.> Thanks in advance. Several things could cause this. Old fluid with high moisture content can cause brakes to drag. Brakes dragging due to sticking hardware will cause excess heat which will boil the fluid and apply brakes. A bad master cylinder can stick and cause brakes to drag. A bad hose internally can cause brakes to drag. A bad vacumm booster can stick and cause brakes to drag. If you don't have the skills to check these items I recommend taking to shop of your choice. HTH, davidj92
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Webbi Surfer 25 April 2005 00:16:06 [ permanent link ]
	Thank you David,it's driving me nuts. The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before. We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and it still does it.
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Daniel 25 April 2005 02:33:57 [ permanent link ]
	Never had this happen but have heard of it happening to others: Replace the flexible lines to the wheels. Those flex lines can have a portion come loose internally that blocks the flow of hydraulic fluid, so after applying the brakes for a while they won't release because the pressure can't escape back through those lines. A good mechanic should be familiar with this phenomenon.
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Hopkins 25 April 2005 16:48:09 [ permanent link ]
	I'd go through the checklist davidj92 provided, starting with bleeding all 4 lines and continuing on to the next cheapest item on the list.
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Davidj92 27 April 2005 01:53:46 [ permanent link ]
	webbi surfer wrote:> Thank you David,it's driving me nuts.> The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before.> We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and> it still does it. If your mechanic has never heard of dragging brakes and can't diagnose you need a new mechanic. If he's never heard of a vacuum booster causing a brake drag then he may not be so bad as a lot of mechanics haven't. As another poster suggested, start by bleeding your brakes. Bleed in the order RR, LR, RF and then LF. Bleed until fluid runs clear, monitoring fluid level in master cylinder to make sure you don't get air in lines. This is a good time to check slides or slide pins on calipers to see if they are dry. If so, this can cause drag, brake lube will solve this. When you test drive, if the brakes drag again, try pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot. If this releases the drag then you probably have a bad master cylinder or booster. More likely a master cylinder. Usually when the booster is bad you can hear a vacuum leak and if you disconnect the vacuum then the problem goes away. If not then when brakes start to drag, stop and crack each bleeder screw. If there is a lot of pressure and brake fluid sprays out under pressure then the flexible hose is bad internally causing pressure to hold. HTH, davidj92
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Nick n Kentucky 27 April 2005 03:16:52 [ permanent link ]
	David, when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so minutes of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving. Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels? Thanks
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Davidj92 28 April 2005 13:59:24 [ permanent link ]
	Yes, the flexible hoses that go to the wheels from the frame. Nick n Kentucky wrote:> David,> when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so> minutes of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving.> Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels?> Thanks
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Ammonman 5 October 2005 05:06:55 [ permanent link ]
	Check the pins that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. The caliper should move easily in the bracket. If it does not, the pins are probably rusted in place. Replace the pins and rubber boots for the pins. Clean the holes for the pins thoughroughly, removing all rust and dirt. Be sure to liberally coat the new pins with silicone grease or anti-sieze paste to keep them from sticking. YMMV AmmonMan "gearshift" <hotred1@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:5c7a26b78e5fe383739db06f498913b7@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...> 1994 honda accord EX - I removed the left rear caliper and noticed that half of the inner pad was glazed and the other half was brand new. Could> this indicate a bad caliper.>
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Jasen 28 February 2006 01:42:41 [ permanent link ]
	Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn't seem to be a vehicle maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. Hope you can help though. Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic about it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal at the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud for something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern to have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the disc(s) might be glazed?? Any thoughts? As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this be done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced? thanks, Cheers, Jasen
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Davek 28 February 2006 11:52:37 [ permanent link ]
	"Jasen" <jasen1970@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message news:44038062$0$30877$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...> Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn't seem to be a vehicle > maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. > Hope you can help though.> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been > squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . That's 56,000 miles in real money. Time to change the pads (maybe the discs too). There are usually anti-squeal shims at the back of the brake pads-just a piece of thin springy metal. Make sure they're fitted and put a smear of grease on them. I'd service the auto transmission as per the book. DaveK.
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Jasen 28 February 2006 12:14:22 [ permanent link ]
	"davek" <davek@brentmere53.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message news:du130q$h8d$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...> "Jasen" <jasen1970@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message > news:44038062$0$30877$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...>> Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn't seem to be a vehicle >> maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. >> Hope you can help though.>> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been >> squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit .> That's 56,000 miles in real money. Time to change the pads (maybe the > discs too).> There are usually anti-squeal shims at the back of the brake pads-just a > piece of thin springy metal. Make sure they're fitted and put a smear of > grease on them.> I'd service the auto transmission as per the book.> DaveK. Thanks Dave. Will check it out. Had front pads changed 20000kms, oh sorry......12427.4 miles ago in real money ;-P , but I think it is the rear that produces noise. Anyway, going to get a second opinion from another mechanic if that's what it takes.
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Gazzafield 28 February 2006 13:34:53 [ permanent link ]
	On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:42:41 +1000, Jasen wrote: Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn't seem to be a vehicle > maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it. > Hope you can help though.> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been > squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic about > it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal at > the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud for > something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern to > have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not > applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or > hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the disc(s) > might be glazed?? Any thoughts?> As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and > this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this be > done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I > thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced? There's a bit of squeal at the start said your mechanic? He may have fitted new pads or discs or both. Did he?
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Jasen 28 February 2006 20:21:27 [ permanent link ]
	"gazzafield" <rufty_tufty_hoolythug@nospam.thankyou.says_I.ko> wrote in message newsan.2006.02.28.10.34.52.626921@nospam.thankyou.says_I.ko...> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:42:41 +1000, Jasen wrote:> Hi fellas, newbie here. I'm in Australia....doesn't seem to be a vehicle>> maintenance usenet group for this country, unless I'm just not seeing it.>> Hope you can help though.>> Had my Toyota Prado 4x4 serviced recently. 90000kms. Brakes have been>> squeally once they are applied and heat up a bit . Told the mechanic >> about>> it, he did nothing to remedy it. Was told, "Oh there's a bit of a squeal >> at>> the start, it's fine". It is really annoying me as it gets quite loud >> for>> something that was reported as being fine, but is there cause for concern >> to>> have my discs machined or pads replaced. There's no squeal when I am not>> applying brakes. After I go down a steep hill using the brakes a lot or>> hard for short bursts, the squealing stops for a time. I think the >> disc(s)>> might be glazed?? Any thoughts?>> As a side issue. Only had automatic transmission service at 80000kms and>> this new mob I tried out want me to do it again. How often should this >> be>> done with most vehicles?? What is done with this part of a service? I>> thought at the very least only the lubricant is replaced?> There's a bit of squeal at the start said your mechanic? He may have> fitted new pads or discs or both. Did he? no, he didn't do anything. I asked him to check out the brakes because of the squeal I was hearing and he said it was fine when I picked the car up. I am guessing someone took it for a test drive and heard very little.....but that's the whole point. They wouldn't have heard very much if the test drive only went around the block once or twice. Once the brakes, front or back I am not sure which, have been used a reasonable amount in stop start traffic or down hills, that's when the squealing starts and it present with light to moderate brake pressure but not when applying them harder. Does that shed any more light on it? Cheers, Jasen
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Bucket 28 February 2006 21:02:25 [ permanent link ]
	I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job. As I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of the brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW? If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of curiousity. Rdgs Bucket
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A.N.Other 28 February 2006 21:53:08 [ permanent link ]
	Don't know how they work, but you can get a pink rubbery liquids to squirt on the pad to do the same thing. Don't know haw that works either. "Bucket" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message news:120941pc7hapje2@corp.supernews.com...> I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job. I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?> If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of> curiousity.> Rdgs> Bucket>
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Chris Whelan 28 February 2006 21:57:20 [ permanent link ]
	Bucket wrote: I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job.> As I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back> of the brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?> If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of> curiousity.> Rdgs> Bucket Presumably the squealing is caused by vibration induced in the pad causing it to move backwards and forwards quickly. The methods used to minimise this are based on either damping the vibration with a spring, or providing less frictional resistance to the things around the pad that it is in contact with. Chris -- Remove prejudice to reply.
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Chris Whelan 28 February 2006 22:16:21 [ permanent link ]
	(Top posting corrected) "Bucket" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message> news:120941pc7hapje2@corp.supernews.com...>> I never did get my head around how those anti squeal shims did their job.> As>> I recal they were sandwiched between the caliper pistons and the back of> the>> brake pads. I know they do the job, BUT HOW?>> If some kind person has the real answer, it would cure 20 years of>> curiousity.>> Rdgs>> Bucket>> a.n.other wrote: Don't know how they work, but you can get a pink rubbery liquids to squirt> on the pad to do the same thing. Don't know haw that works either. Presumably in the same way that applying a high temperature grease (eg Copaslip) or using the self-adhesive anti-squeal tape does. It allows the vibration-induced movement, but limits the ability of that movement to create the sound. Imagine the screech that scraping your finger nails down a blackboard makes. Now put something slippery in between and it won't make a sound. Chris -- Remove prejudice to reply.
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Bucket 1 March 2006 17:36:29 [ permanent link ]
	"Chris Whelan" <cawhelan@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote in message news:k21Nf.55397$K42.40387@newsfe7-win.ntli.net... Presumably the squealing is caused by vibration induced in the pad causing> it to move backwards and forwards quickly. The methods used to minimise> this are based on either damping the vibration with a spring, or providing> less frictional resistance to the things around the pad that it is in> contact with.> Chris> --> Remove prejudice to reply. Thanks for that I think I get it now??? I had thought the pad was fixed ridgidly as far as side to side and up and down motion were concerned, but now realise there must be a tiny amount of movement on the pins its secured with (hole clearances around pins must allow a tiny bit of movement). I suppose there is very fast miniscule movement from the pad and the back of the pad rubs against the piston. I can now see how the shim stops this rubbing and the squeeling noise. Thanks guys Bucket
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Hp 6 March 2006 05:03:02 [ permanent link ]
	I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared??????????? Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be depressed. Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Guest 6 March 2006 06:15:15 [ permanent link ]
	On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yahoo.com> wrote: I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared???????????> Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be>depressed.>Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.>Any suggestions?>Thanks.> ABS? Abominable braking system. * Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com * * Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *
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Hp 6 March 2006 17:18:12 [ permanent link ]
	Yes it has ABS. The ABS light and the brake light stay lite. Thanks. <clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:49an02d3g12kpf58t6024oe16a15n6cpva@4ax.com...> On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yahoo.com>> wrote:> I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared???????????> > Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be> >depressed.> >Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.> >Any suggestions?> >Thanks.> > ABS? Abominable braking system.> * Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com > Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *
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Guest 6 March 2006 20:14:13 [ permanent link ]
	On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 09:18:12 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yahoo.com> wrote: Yes it has ABS. The ABS light and the brake light stay lite.> Thanks.> <clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message>news:49an02d3g12kpf58t6024oe16a15n6cpva@4ax.com...>> On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 21:03:02 -0500, "HP" <deepsouthphoto@yahoo.com>>> wrote:>> I posted this on here about five days ago and it dissapeared???????????>> > Have a '89 Dakota. Went out one morning and the brake petal can't be>> >depressed.>> >Power not working? Both brake warning light stay light.>> >Any suggestions?>> >Thanks.>> > ABS? Abominable braking system.>> * Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com >> Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from>http://www.SecureIX.com > You will need to have the ABS diagnosis done to find out what the problem is. Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com * * Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *
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Philip Trenholme 18 May 2006 03:39:16 [ permanent link ]
	Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a faulty booster cause this? Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes. Phil
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Philip Trenholme 18 May 2006 03:55:18 [ permanent link ]
	Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a faulty booster cause this? Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes. Phil
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AZ Nomad 18 May 2006 04:22:18 [ permanent link ]
	On Wed, 17 May 2006 16:55:18 -0700, Philip Trenholme <dim1@comcast.net> wrote: Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow>speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for>a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a>faulty booster cause this? Car is 94 Accord wagon w/ABS brakes. you have air in the line take it to a qualified mechanic to bleed the system. Or read a book.
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TeGGeR® 18 May 2006 05:53:13 [ permanent link ]
	Philip Trenholme <dim1@comcast.net> wrote in news:rudn62lcslptsp1l40hj5esaf9uu3d8a9f@4ax.com: Brake pedal sinks partially when applied going down a hill at slow> speed. A pump or two will bring it back up. This has been going on for> a few weeks. No noticible loss of fluid in brake reservoir. Could a> faulty booster cause this? A faulty booster will cause a hard pedal. See AZ Nomad's post. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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Guest 12 August 2006 08:48:21 [ permanent link ]
	After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads. Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel. Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to them. Any ideas. If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes. Thank you......Joe
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SnoMan 12 August 2006 15:44:24 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 00:48:21 -0400, Joe096@optonline.net wrote: After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front>pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did>not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads.>Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a>slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise>sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel.> Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to>them. Any ideas. > If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes.> Thank you......Joe Yes bleed the system because when you collapsed the calipers to change pads you may have pushed some fluid out of reservoir and now your are low on fluid. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Steve B . 12 August 2006 16:13:02 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 00:48:21 -0400, Joe096@optonline.net wrote: After 35000 miles front brakes needed replacing. Installed new front>pads. Job went well with no problems installing the front pads. I did>not open the system to bled since I was only replacing the front pads.>Now I find the brake pedel has too much travel and has developed a>slight clicking noise when it travels down so far. Clicking noise>sounds like its coming from the brake pedal the last 1/2" of travel.> Do I need to bleed them? The rears still have about 60 % left to>them. Any ideas. > If I need to bled them. What the best way. Car has ABS brakes.> Thank you......Joe My best guess would be that you upset the proportioning valve when you forced the fluid back out of the calipers back to the master cylinder. With the engine running hit the brakes a couple of times as hard and as fast as you can. The sudden movement of brake fluid is often enough to reset the proportioning valve. Steve B.
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L.W.Hughes III 13 June 2008 10:17:51 [ permanent link ]
	Hi Axel, His rotors are warped, again. Check to see if his calipers have been replaced under warranty: http://www.wjjeeps.com/brakes.htm The replacement "Akebono" calipers are in Silver color. Also, they don't have the spring retainers to hold the brake pads. Teves has an open-sided caliper bracket while Akebono is fully closed style. And will look like: http://www.billhughes.com/WJcaliper.jpg God Bless America, Bill O\|\|\|\|\|\|\|O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com "axel" <ulrich.axel@gmail.com> wrote in message news:d7f84be1-a7be-4df7-89f0-facc9b127287@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com... 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about 1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there be something else wrong than the breaks? Axel Posted from http://www.teranews.com
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John 13 June 2008 16:29:17 [ permanent link ]
	Axel, I had the same problem in my 99 GC. After three sets of OEM rotors I gave up and bought the Stillen cross-drilled/slotted rotors and pads. Not cheap but they fixed the problem (about $350). No more shake and better stopping with Stillen brakes. I cant say enough about this upgrade. It completely cured my problem. Make sure you have the new Akebono type calipers upgrade. See first link below, which explains the problem and explains the TSB that upgrades to Akebono calipers. Then see a review of the Stillen rotors (second link) Then buy them (third link). Best $350 you'll ever spend. http://www.wjjeeps.com/brakes.htm http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/stillenrotors/ http://www.stillen.com "axel" <ulrich.axel@gmail.com> wrote in message news:d7f84be1-a7be-4df7-89f0-facc9b127287@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com... 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about 1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there be something else wrong than the breaks? Axel
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Mike Romain 13 June 2008 17:55:37 [ permanent link ]
	If the mentioned brake work has been done, then the vehicle is likely the recipient of a gorilla with an air impact gun. It seems like the latest Scam, but these fools are hammering on the wheel lug nuts in 'supposedly' routine tire rotations which will warp the rotors bad. They then expect to make $$$$ off the 'fake' brake job now induced. They try to cover their asses by saying, 'ya but I used a torque stick' on my air hammer. BS is the only call there, a brand 'New' 'torque stick' has at 'least' a +/- 15% tolerance, most have 20%. This quite plainly means, in the hands of an 'expert', the torque on a 100 ft lb nut can be anywhere from 85 ft lb to 115. This 30 to 40 foot pound difference is easily enough of a difference to warp the rotor. The only proper way to put on 'modern' tires, well since they started teaching the proper way back in the 1970's when aluminum wheels came in, is to put them on with the gun if you want and to 'finish' them with a proper torque wrench. ALL the garages I use, Jeep shops included use a torque wrench to finish the wheel lug nuts. If they didn't, they would lose me as a customer and they 'don't' know this... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com axel wrote: 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7l 8 Cyl 109,000 miles When breaking from a higher speed, the steering wheel starts wobbling as if you have a really unbalanced wheel, in fact the entire car shakes, its really bad and seems to get worse. I had the car about 1,000 miles ago when made an oil change for him and I thought it was not as bad as it is now. As the car slows down or when breaking from a lower speed, it turns into a wave like stopping motion as if half the break disk stops harder than the other half. I don't know how better to describe it but you feel like you are going back and forth in your seat. The car however is not pulling to the side while breaking. I assume it is a problem with the breaks, but I have not checked them yet. Its not my truck but a friends, and according to him his last break job was about 50,000 miles ago, which would call for new breaks. However, it does not lack stopping power at all. Any idea what to look for regarding the behavior described? Could there be something else wrong than the breaks? Axel
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DougW 14 June 2008 03:51:56 [ permanent link ]
	John wrote: Axel, I had the same problem in my 99 GC. After three sets of OEM rotors I gave up and bought the Stillen cross-drilled/slotted rotors and pads. Not cheap but they fixed the problem (about $350). No more shake and better stopping with Stillen brakes. I cant say enough about this upgrade. It completely cured my problem. Yep, got mine from Kolak. Higly recomended if he is still around. http://www.nagca.com/grandlinks/ Scroll down to multitronics. -- -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
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Mike Romain 14 June 2008 18:25:53 [ permanent link ]
	Motorhead Lawyer wrote: On Jun 13, 8:55 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: If the mentioned brake work has been done, then the vehicle is likely the recipient of a gorilla with an air impact gun. It seems like the latest Scam, but these fools are hammering on the wheel lug nuts in 'supposedly' routine tire rotations which will warp the rotors bad. They then expect to make $$$$ off the 'fake' brake job now induced. I think you give them too much credit. Anyone smart enough to know this can happen is also smart enough not to do it. You only 'discover' it by being stupid. They try to cover their asses by saying, 'ya but I used a torque stick' on my air hammer. BS is the only call there, a brand 'New' 'torque stick' has at 'least' a +/- 15% tolerance, most have 20%. This quite plainly means, in the hands of an 'expert', the torque on a 100 ft lb nut can be anywhere from 85 ft lb to 115. This 30 to 40 foot pound difference is easily enough of a difference to warp the rotor. Ummm, Romain, the tolerance is not between uses of the same stick; it's tolerances between different ones. Using the same torque stick will yield the same torque every time within a foot-pound or two. Further, the tolerance is more like 3%. Do a search. Torque wrenches are inaccurate, too. -- C.R. Krieger No, this was discussed on the auto tech group and my numbers are right and were searched. The 'tolerances' for a torque stick are +/- 15% for an 'expensive' one and this means a +/- 15% on each 'use' with an 'expert', not on each stick. It's the hammer. This is unlike a torque wrench that has the tolerance set the same for each wrench because of the 'Hammering' action of the 'impact' gun. I have worked with these things for years. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
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CarGuru > Toyota > Brake problem 14 June 2008 18:25:53

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Brake problem

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