What is "My favourites"?
Needs some exhaust advice from the masters.
Hello Guest		   
  • Login
• Register…
• Start blog		   • Who, Where, When
• What is interesting here?
• Duels		   • Polls
• Avatars
• Interests		   • Cities and Countries
• Random blog
• Users search		   • Search
• Games
• Tests
• CarGuru		   • Ñîîáùåñòâà
• Talxy Chat
• Horoscope
• Online		  
Register!
CarGuru > Technology > Needs some exhaust advice from the masters. 27 April 2005 21:26:40
  Recent blog posts: 
95 mirage
I have a 95 mirage and this is the second time the injector in number 3 cylinder has gone bad. Anything…

1988 Ford F-150 Truck
I would like to remove the pollution control system from my 1988 F-150, 4.9L I6 300 4x4. Can anyone…

my 99 M chrysler has started to…
my 99 M chrysler has started to cool and then starts to give off heat in the ac vents and then cool…

dodge 2000 intrepid
bought this car right off the show room floor in Bartow fl to this date I have not had any work done on…

starting issue, 2002 dodge…
My 2002 Dodge Caravan wouldn't crank. I tested some things, replaced the battery. After installing the…

;-)
;-)­

stereo pin
I put a new battery in my girl friends 94 900 and it wants a code for the radio. There is nothing in the…

Coolant temp on Saturn Sky
I just purchased a 2007 Saturn Sky Redline. As I was driving yesterday I happen to have the info set on…

Saturn Sky Red Line
I just purchased a 2007 Saturn Sky Redline. I noticed will driving yesterday that when I turned on the…

Que pour la place trange
Que pour la place trange

  They have birthday today: 
Esther
  Forums:   
    topic feeds

• CarGuru  all topics, blogs and comments

• Driving

• Formula-1

• Indycar

• Nascar

• Other sport

• Technology

• 4 x 4

• Volkswagen

• Mercedes

• Acura

• Alfa-romeo

• Audi

• BMW

• Chrysler

• Dodge

• Ford

• General Motors

• Jeep Willys

• Honda

• Hyundai

• Mazda

• Nissan

• Peugeot

• Pontiac

• Porsche

• Saab

• Saturn

• Toyota

• Volvo

• Buy / Sell

• Open discussion

• Anonymous
  Discuss: 
Ask How To Replace Headlight…
I would like to know the following about changing the headlight bulb(s) on a 1992 Toyota Corolla 4-door…

Re: Transmission shudder when…
"150milesperday" <dionfluttert@gmail­.com> wrote in message…

Mitsubishi Diamante ECU faults…
Could someone please direct me to where I can find the meaning of ECU error codes on a 94 Mitsu…

98 Dodge Grand Caravan Problems
I have 2 separate (I think) problems with my 98 Grand Caravan. Problem #1 The first one started 8…

Re: 1997 "mercury sable"…
Ouch is taht easy to get to or do I have to rip the whole colum appart to get at it? any test point's I…
  Recent forum topics: 
Brake Lights won't work
brake lights on 1996 Grand Am won't work. Fuse and lights are fine. Suggestions?

honda civic 87 model problem
i would like some information on why my honda civic wont start at times after its hot when running it…

mazda premacy glowplug lights…
i have a mazda premacy 2litre diesel . have a problem at the moment ,glowplug light flashing with loss…

I have a 96 chrysler new york…
I have a 96 chrysler new york lhs but no owners manuel and on the message center there is a light that i…
  Recent forum comments:
RE: Ask How To Replace Headlight…
how do I release the locking ring on the headlamp bulb in a 99 dodge ram 2500?

RE: Re: Transmission shudder when…
who are you speaking to

RE: Re: Transmission shudder when…
I can feel something like a kick when I first hit the gas pedal when I take off.

RE: stuck hatchback
on the rear gate that is

RE: stuck hatchback
just my latch is stuck and the door wont close on my 2000 sub outback limited

RE: 1999 Chrysler T&C - Speed…
I am reading all of this and am amazed at how bad I am getting ripped off by my Chrysler dealership....4…

RE: How to duplicate Navtech CD’s
where can i buy nav cd's for a 2003 s class mercedes also the latest version for a 2005 sl?

RE: Heating problem in 1988 Honda…
well thats no always true!!! my husband replaced the thermostat/thermome­ter..... and the water…

RE: Mitsubishi Diamante ECU faults…
how did you read the codes

RE: 98 Dodge Grand Caravan Problems
I had the same problem with the instrument panel, after about a months worth of greif, and dollars…
  Ìîäåðàòîð:
 Administrator

Needs some exhaust advice from the masters.

Sleeker GT Phwoar 20 April 2005 22:54:30
 Noticed over the last few months I've been getting a tinny buzzing noise
coming through the dash, at between 2500 and 3500 revs. Disappears after
3.5k.

Been told it sounds like the baffles of the centre box have collapsed
and it is resonance. Sounds about right, definatley, something
resonating, but I thought it was something on the firewall.

But the last few days, I've noticed that it has been only making 6PSI
most of the time, and only occasionally making 7 or 8 in 4th and 5th.
(Should make 6 PSI in first and 2nd and 8 in 3rd upwards)

Tonight coming home from work, it all felt a little bit flat, and
defiantly noiseier than normal, but not from anywhere in particular.

Thought I would try a little test. Started it up (Still a little warm).
Covered both tail pipes, first with a pair of builders gloves, then with
a piece of wood big enough to cover both pipes, pressed on hard.

Engine kept running as normal, exhaust sounded muffled, but not even the
slightest hint of stalling.

I do have a slight blow on the exhaust manifold, but that closes when
warm anyway, and if just one cylinder is leaking at the manifold, you
would expect it to stumble on the still sealed cylinders.

Does it sound like a big rotten hole somewhere in the exhaust?

MOT is due at end of June, so I'm starting to get sorted, the stuff that
is likley to cause problems, and the exhaust seems the main one.



--
Carl Robson
"Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf"
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
DanTXD 21 April 2005 00:14:40 [ permanent link ]
 "Sleeker GT Phwoar" <carl.robson@bounci­ng-czechs.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1cd0b5bda7­5ddf0198971a@news.in­dividual.net...> Noticed over the last few months I've been getting a tinny buzzing noise> coming through the dash, at between 2500 and 3500 revs. Disappears after> 3.5k.>
Been told it sounds like the baffles of the centre box have collapsed> and it is resonance. Sounds about right, definatley, something> resonating, but I thought it was something on the firewall.>
But the last few days, I've noticed that it has been only making 6PSI> most of the time, and only occasionally making 7 or 8 in 4th and 5th.> (Should make 6 PSI in first and 2nd and 8 in 3rd upwards)>
Tonight coming home from work, it all felt a little bit flat, and> defiantly noiseier than normal, but not from anywhere in particular.>
Thought I would try a little test. Started it up (Still a little warm).> Covered both tail pipes, first with a pair of builders gloves, then with> a piece of wood big enough to cover both pipes, pressed on hard.>
Engine kept running as normal, exhaust sounded muffled, but not even the> slightest hint of stalling.>
I do have a slight blow on the exhaust manifold, but that closes when> warm anyway, and if just one cylinder is leaking at the manifold, you> would expect it to stumble on the still sealed cylinders.>
Does it sound like a big rotten hole somewhere in the exhaust?>
MOT is due at end of June, so I'm starting to get sorted, the stuff that> is likley to cause problems, and the exhaust seems the main one.>

Got any way of getting underneath it? A hole that big must be quite visible
surely. But then, you'd think it would be very loud with a hole that big.

Hmmmm.....

--
Dan


Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 21 April 2005 00:29:25 [ permanent link ]
 In article <3cnrhkF6oqlbnU1@in­dividual.net>, dan405@SdanPontAher­Mun.com
says...> "Sleeker GT Phwoar" <carl.robson@bounci­ng-czechs.com> wrote in message > news:MPG.1cd0b5bda7­5ddf0198971a@news.in­dividual.net...> > Noticed over the last few months I've been getting a tinny buzzing noise> > coming through the dash, at between 2500 and 3500 revs. Disappears after> > 3.5k.> >
Been told it sounds like the baffles of the centre box have collapsed> > and it is resonance. Sounds about right, definatley, something> > resonating, but I thought it was something on the firewall.> >
But the last few days, I've noticed that it has been only making 6PSI> > most of the time, and only occasionally making 7 or 8 in 4th and 5th.> > (Should make 6 PSI in first and 2nd and 8 in 3rd upwards)> >
Tonight coming home from work, it all felt a little bit flat, and> > defiantly noiseier than normal, but not from anywhere in particular.> >
Thought I would try a little test. Started it up (Still a little warm).> > Covered both tail pipes, first with a pair of builders gloves, then with> > a piece of wood big enough to cover both pipes, pressed on hard.> >
Engine kept running as normal, exhaust sounded muffled, but not even the> > slightest hint of stalling.> >
I do have a slight blow on the exhaust manifold, but that closes when> > warm anyway, and if just one cylinder is leaking at the manifold, you> > would expect it to stumble on the still sealed cylinders.> >
Does it sound like a big rotten hole somewhere in the exhaust?> >
MOT is due at end of June, so I'm starting to get sorted, the stuff that> > is likley to cause problems, and the exhaust seems the main one.> >
Got any way of getting underneath it? A hole that big must be quite visible > surely. But then, you'd think it would be very loud with a hole that big.>
Hmmmm.....>
The patch for the exhuast is a bit twisted and a real git to get to. But
I can see most of the length. there is a flexi section in it (roughly
the size of an overbraided CAT), that is my reckoning of the most likely
leak.
--
Carl Robson
"Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf"
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
Fraser Johnston 22 April 2005 10:24:41 [ permanent link ]
 
"Sleeker GT Phwoar" <carl.robson@bounci­ng-czechs.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1cd0b5bda7­5ddf0198971a@news.in­dividual.net...> Noticed over the last few months I've been getting a tinny buzzing noise> coming through the dash, at between 2500 and 3500 revs. Disappears after> 3.5k.>
Been told it sounds like the baffles of the centre box have collapsed> and it is resonance. Sounds about right, definatley, something> resonating, but I thought it was something on the firewall.>
But the last few days, I've noticed that it has been only making 6PSI> most of the time, and only occasionally making 7 or 8 in 4th and 5th.> (Should make 6 PSI in first and 2nd and 8 in 3rd upwards)>
Tonight coming home from work, it all felt a little bit flat, and> defiantly noiseier than normal, but not from anywhere in particular.>
Thought I would try a little test. Started it up (Still a little warm).> Covered both tail pipes, first with a pair of builders gloves, then with> a piece of wood big enough to cover both pipes, pressed on hard.>
Engine kept running as normal, exhaust sounded muffled, but not even the> slightest hint of stalling.>
I do have a slight blow on the exhaust manifold, but that closes when> warm anyway, and if just one cylinder is leaking at the manifold, you> would expect it to stumble on the still sealed cylinders.>
Does it sound like a big rotten hole somewhere in the exhaust?>
MOT is due at end of June, so I'm starting to get sorted, the stuff that> is likley to cause problems, and the exhaust seems the main one.

Sounds like a bunch of small holes. Manifold leak also sounds like a
problem. There is seals where the turbo meets the manifold and where the
turbo meets the exhaust. Are they blowing?

Fraser


Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 22 April 2005 12:03:39 [ permanent link ]
 In article <3crjlgF6r6b8fU1@in­dividual.net>, fraser@jcis.com.au says...> Sounds like a bunch of small holes.

I figured either lots of slightly larger than pin holes, or a split
welded seam, or even the braided flexi section (looks like the CAT on
most cars) breaking apart it's braiding.
Manifold leak also sounds like a > problem. There is seals where the turbo meets the manifold and where the > turbo meets the exhaust.

It's Manifold to head. Ideally turbo needs to come off to get to the
lower row of studs. They occasionally work loose. Re-torquing them
strips them.

I spotted, over winter when things were coldest at first startup, if
revved a little from cold, there would be a small puff of smoke from
under the manifold from arround cylinder 2 or 3 and could be seen just
for a couple of seconds until it started to warm, accompanied by a
crack/spitting sound, which also stopped as soon as the smoke did. Most
likely a loosened stud causing a blow by in the gasket, which means a
new gasket. Also possibly a cracked manifold as they can crack under 2
or 3. Cost to repair is likely to be £80 of manifold (if not blown the
metal turbo ones can be re-used)+new studs+maybe new manifold £250.

It is possible to get an off the shelf ST185 manifold in stainless that
comes with all the gaskets, and new turbo bolts but not studs, for £220,
but as there were 7 and 9 stud ST185 heads, the the alternator bracket
may need "Adapting" to fit the manifold, with two holes not being used,
and the top mount IC "Adapting" because it was designed to go with the
Carlos Sainz/RC chargecooler setup, or switch to a front mount IC.

I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would cost
from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott, as well as what
ExhaustUK/Powerflow­ can sort me out, the other option is an manifold at
£220, ebay down pipe £90 (both normal ebay items at £250 and £90 but the
seller is a club member and does them cheap for members and orders them
direct from SS autochrome in the US) and £330 for a Blueflame 2.5"
system with club members discount(they make the Mongoose system for
Mongoose).


--
"Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf"
The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
Nom 22 April 2005 14:55:46 [ permanent link ]
 Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would> cost from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott...

That's the way to go.

As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be taking.
You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out otherwise -
complete stainless system should last for the rest of the car's life, with
no issues ever again !


Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 23 April 2005 01:47:02 [ permanent link ]
 In article <d4al6c021la@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here
says...> Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> > I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would> > cost from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott...>
That's the way to go.>
As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be taking. > You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out otherwise - > complete stainless system should last for the rest of the car's life, with > no issues ever again ! >
Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube Torque.
H&S is a little too rich for my blood.
£800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't have
the pattern.
£275 for the system (back and mid box),
£225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe),
£450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a flexi
braided section where the CAT would normally be).

For less than that I could import an AUSSIE brand system.

I can get a Blueflame 2.5" system with single tailpipe and including a
2.5" flexi for £330(with either fitting or delivery)
I can get a 3" (including a downsize restrictor for the standard system
and avoid spikes) decat pipe for £90 including shipping (normally on
ebay for £120 but he is a club member JJ-Jap on ebay)
And he is offering a manifold for £220 but ideally needs an FMIC or
"alteration" to fit a standard top mount (but he gets them from SS
Autochrome and they show one on their site fitted with a standard
intercooler).
He is also planning a very tasty 3" Jap style stainless system for
somewhere between £250 and £350 shipping included.

It's just a matter if time scale.
but using his manifold, and downpipe and a Blueflame I could get the lot
for £640, cheaper than the H&S manifold on it's own.

All stainless all lifetime warrenty.
If his system works out as cheap as he hopes, I could be looking at
knocking the best part of a £100 off.

Unless Tube Torque bring something special out of the bag, that will
probably be the way I will go.

Just waiting for a refund of the $215 for the Exhaust Depot 2.5"
downpipe, that 935motorsports.com have failed to restock, and then for
them to ship my whiteline handling kit (front wishbone bushes, rear
radius arm bushes, front RB bushes, uprated adjustable ARB and rear ARB
bushes) Frazer will confirm how good Whiteline stuff is.

Oh and I have a set of DBA disc brakes on a boat from AUS somewhere, to
go with the new Ceramic Akebono pads, going to fit them all at once
myself.

I could splurge and get a Blitz Nur Spec R, but at £1k and the need to
find a flexi section, too pricey.

All these will either open up more power, or make it better to use the
power I already have. Next stop, manual boost controller, and an FMIC
conversion, already have the IC, ebayed for it last year just haven't
gotten round to sorting the piping yet.
--
Carl Robson
"Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf"
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
Fraser Johnston 23 April 2005 06:27:07 [ permanent link ]
 
"Sleeker GT Phwoar" <carl.robson@bounci­ng-czechs.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1cd3812eec­8006d2989725@news.in­dividual.net...
In article <d4al6c021la@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here
says...> Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> > I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would> > cost from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott...>
That's the way to go.>
As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be > taking.> You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out otherwise -> complete stainless system should last for the rest of the car's life, with> no issues ever again !>
Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube Torque.
H&S is a little too rich for my blood.
£800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't have
the pattern.
£275 for the system (back and mid box),
£225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe),
£450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a flexi
braided section where the CAT would normally be).

For less than that I could import an AUSSIE brand system.

I can get a Blueflame 2.5" system with single tailpipe and including a
2.5" flexi for £330(with either fitting or delivery)
I can get a 3" (including a downsize restrictor for the standard system
and avoid spikes) decat pipe for £90 including shipping (normally on
ebay for £120 but he is a club member JJ-Jap on ebay)
And he is offering a manifold for £220 but ideally needs an FMIC or
"alteration" to fit a standard top mount (but he gets them from SS
Autochrome and they show one on their site fitted with a standard
intercooler).
He is also planning a very tasty 3" Jap style stainless system for
somewhere between £250 and £350 shipping included.

It's just a matter if time scale.
but using his manifold, and downpipe and a Blueflame I could get the lot
for £640, cheaper than the H&S manifold on it's own.

All stainless all lifetime warrenty.
If his system works out as cheap as he hopes, I could be looking at
knocking the best part of a £100 off.

Unless Tube Torque bring something special out of the bag, that will
probably be the way I will go.

Just waiting for a refund of the $215 for the Exhaust Depot 2.5"
downpipe, that 935motorsports.com have failed to restock, and then for
them to ship my whiteline handling kit (front wishbone bushes, rear
radius arm bushes, front RB bushes, uprated adjustable ARB and rear ARB
bushes) Frazer will confirm how good Whiteline stuff is.

Oh and I have a set of DBA disc brakes on a boat from AUS somewhere, to
go with the new Ceramic Akebono pads, going to fit them all at once
myself.

I could splurge and get a Blitz Nur Spec R, but at £1k and the need to
find a flexi section, too pricey.

All these will either open up more power, or make it better to use the
power I already have. Next stop, manual boost controller, and an FMIC
conversion, already have the IC, ebayed for it last year just haven't
gotten round to sorting the piping yet.
--

Whiteline make some great stuff. My WRX handles shitloads better than a
standard one because of it.

Fraser


Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 23 April 2005 14:38:33 [ permanent link ]
 In article <3ctq46F6q8ji8U1@in­dividual.net>, fraser@jcis.com.au says...> Whiteline make some great stuff. My WRX handles shitloads better than a > standard one because of it.>

Should be a good set of kit.
Front wishbone bushes, and front ARB bushes.
Adjustable rear ARB and bushes, and rear radius arm bushes.

The beefed up rear ARB help get rid of the understeer tendencies of the
GT4.

I would have gone for the Works kit, with the Whiteline valved Koni
inserts, but the rears need cutting of the old stuts and welding new
screw caps on and shortening of the inserts. In the end went with
uprated KYBs and Eibach pro springs, both 20% uprated and 25mm lower and
a set of TRD front topmounts.

I've got a set of KYB rear top mounts and dustboots to go on, when it
goes back into my mechanic for getting the bush kit fitted.

The DBA discs arrived yesterday (about 2 weeks earlier than expected) so
I might have a little dabble at getting them on today along with new
pads.
--
Carl Robson
"Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf"
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
Nom 25 April 2005 13:31:12 [ permanent link ]
 Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> In article <d4al6c021la@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here> says...>> Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:>>> I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would>>> cost from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott...>>
That's the way to go.>>
As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be>> taking. You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out>> otherwise - complete stainless system should last for the rest of>> the car's life, with no issues ever again !>>
Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube> Torque. H&S is a little too rich for my blood.> £800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't> have the pattern.> £275 for the system (back and mid box),> £225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe),> £450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a> flexi braided section where the CAT would normally be).

!!!!

So the price is *too* mental then :)­



Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 25 April 2005 16:47:55 [ permanent link ]
 In article <d4idbo02e2i@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here
says...> Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> > In article <d4al6c021la@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here> > says...> >> Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote:> >>> I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would> >>> cost from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott...> >>
That's the way to go.> >>
As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be> >> taking. You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out> >> otherwise - complete stainless system should last for the rest of> >> the car's life, with no issues ever again !> >>
Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube> > Torque. H&S is a little too rich for my blood.> > £800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't> > have the pattern.> > £275 for the system (back and mid box),> > £225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe),> > £450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a> > flexi braided section where the CAT would normally be).>
!!!!>
So the price is *too* mental then :)­>
For full custom yes. You can buy ready made manifold in Mandrel nent
stainless Steel, for the later 9 bolt head that need "modification" to
the alternator mount for £220, how they can justify £800 stuns me
shitless.
--
"Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf"
The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
Sleeker GT Phwoar 27 April 2005 21:26:40 [ permanent link ]
 In article <d4idbo02e2i@news3.­newsguy.com>, Nom@Somewhere.Somew­here
says...>
So the price is *too* mental then :)­>
Racetech exhausts are Ebaying Mongoose systems.
Currently waiting on one at £265.
One of the other club members got his for that.
Or they sell them from their own site for £300.
Even Blueflame the makers charge £330+fitting
Mongoose themselves charge over £400.

Plus I'll add a JJ-Jap downpipe/Decat, and keep the standard manifold
unless it is cracked, and just get the gaskets replaced.
--
Carl Robson
"Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf"
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing­-czechs.com
Add comment
 

Add new comment

As:
Login:  Password:  
 
 
  
 
respect your talk pals, avoid using obscene language, typing entire messages in CAPS, posting buy/sell ads or violating netiquette or the RF Criminal Code..

CarGuru > Technology > Needs some exhaust advice from the masters. 27 April 2005 21:26:40
see also:
NHRA: Englishtown: Tony Pedregon final…
F1: Canadian GP: Toyota technical…
FCS: Circuit Mont-Tremblant Sunday…
pass tests:
see also:
posli nax!
gears not engaging
...hhhhiiiiiiiiiii
  Copyright © 2001—2009 Car-Guru
Idea: Miñhael Monashev
See Help and FAQ in the community support.car-guru.com.
Write in the community about the bugs you have noticedbugs.car-guru.com.
Write your offers and comments in the communities suggest.car-guru.com.
Information for parents.
Write us at:
If you would like to report an abuse of our service, such as a spam message, please .