tips or tricks to remove upper ball joints

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tips or tricks to remove upper ball joints
Mjt 2 April 2005 18:42:07
	x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes. attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint. (will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all tie rod ends). [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring. removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in. balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck. searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success. ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about? -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.
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Mike Romain 2 April 2005 18:49:06 [ permanent link ]
	The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have done, but the smaller ones were useless. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's mjt wrote:> x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech> 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.> attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.> (will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all> tie rod ends).> [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower> a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.> removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation> nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation> tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.> balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle > i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i> litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes> of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.> searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and> didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this> job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.> ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?> --> << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>> What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.
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TeGGer® 2 April 2005 21:12:06 [ permanent link ]
	"Kruse" <kruse@kansas.net> wrote in news:1112456463.557996.155460@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: Mike Romain wrote:>> The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last>> one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have>> done, but the smaller ones were useless.>> Mike> That, and a good air hammer with a rounded tip. Use some penetrating> oil along with it and they come right out.> What about this?: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6556 -- TeGGeR®
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Steve W. 2 April 2005 23:11:30 [ permanent link ]
	If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose. ( \/ ) <<< Hammer 1 Hammer 2 -- Steve Williams "mjt" <mjtobler@removethis_mail.ru> wrote in message news:20050402084207.24845c7b@localhost...> x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech> 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.> attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.> (will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all> tie rod ends).> [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower> a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.> removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation> nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation> tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.> balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle > i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i> litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes> of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.> searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and> didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this> job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.> ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?> -- > << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >>> What I want is all of the power and none of the responsibility.> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
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Mjt 3 April 2005 00:14:21 [ permanent link ]
	Steve W. wrote: If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle> there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on> one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit> the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the> parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose.> ( \/ ) <<<> Hammer 1 Hammer 2 ... interesting indeed - so i take the two hammers and hit both sides of the knuckle at the same time? seems reasonable when you think about it. thanks much!!! -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> The surest sign that a man is in love is when he divorces his wife.
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Mjt 3 April 2005 00:16:55 [ permanent link ]
	Mike Romain wrote: The only trick I know is to use a bigger hammer. Seriously, the last> one I helped on needed a 10 lb hammer to move it. A 5 lb might have> done, but the smaller ones were useless. ... use a big hammer, "where"? on the knuckle? the ball stud? i hammered the fork (ball joint separation tool) all the way that it can go. i even pushed UP and DOWN on the fork's arm. -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> Vulcans believe peace should not depend on force. -- Amanda, "Journey to Babel", stardate 3842.3
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Mjt 3 April 2005 00:17:48 [ permanent link ]
	Kruse wrote: That, and a good air hammer with a rounded tip. Use some penetrating> oil along with it and they come right out. ... wish i had the facilities, such as a large compressor and SnapOn tools the penetrating oil is a good idea!! -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> There is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about, and that is not being talked about. -- Oscar Wilde
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Mjt 3 April 2005 00:18:49 [ permanent link ]
	TeGGerВ® wrote: What about this?:> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6556 ... that's cool!!! i had been to three different automotive tool shops (and Sears) and all of them only had the separating fork, which i already have. -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> <Joy> that's a Kludge(TM) <knghtbrd> It Works(tm) <Joy> AIX works(TM) <knghtbrd> no it doesn't <knghtbrd> =>
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BuddyWh 3 April 2005 01:01:00 [ permanent link ]
	When I replaced the CV boots on my '94 Rodeo all I did was tap the side of the knuckle to jar the ball joint loose from the taper. I left the suspension "hanging" though... removed the cotter and backed off nut so only couple threads were engaged to support the lower arm until I could put the jack under neath and relieve the joint once it loosened. It was not a light tap, no not at all. I used a 5 lb sledge and whacked the knuckle pretty good around the taper several times and had a pry bar in there to help it along too. I also think I used some penetrant the night before, although I don't think that mattered too much. Didn't even scratch the BJ boots... went right back together and it's working great even now. BuddyWh On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 08:42:07 -0600, mjt <mjtobler@removethis_mail.ru> wrote: x-posted: rec.autos.tech, alt.autos.isuzu - followup set: rec.autos.tech> 1990 isuzu trooper (198k miles), v6, 4wd, 4door, 4-wheel disc brakes.> attempted to replace the right side upper ball joint.>(will be replacing both uppers and will be doing all>tie rod ends). > [front] frame on jackstands. floor jack up under lower >a-frame and jacked up fully to unspring.> removed cotter pin and loosened ball joint castellation>nut a couple of turns. inserted ball joint separation>tool (fork style) and hammered all the way in.> balljoint stud didnt budge from the steering knuckle >i pryed up and down on the fork with no success. i>litely tapped (horizontally) on the knuckle in hopes>of "vibrating" the balljoint stud loose. no luck.> searched google for "tips tricks remove ball joint" and>didnt turn up anything more than i tried. i've done this>job on other vehicles in the past with immediate success.> ... any tips/tricks y'all might know about?
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Mjt 3 April 2005 02:37:14 [ permanent link ]
	(BuddyWh <root@localhost.>) scribbled: When I replaced the CV boots on my '94 Rodeo all I did was tap the> side of the knuckle to jar the ball joint loose from the taper. I> left the suspension "hanging" though... removed the cotter and> backed off nut so only couple threads were engaged to support the> lower arm until I could put the jack under neath and relieve the joint> once it loosened.> It was not a light tap, no not at all. I used a 5 lb sledge and> whacked the knuckle pretty good around the taper several times and> had a pry bar in there to help it along too. I also think I used some> penetrant the night before, although I don't think that mattered too> much. Didn't even scratch the BJ boots... went right back together> and it's working great even now. ... well, you've provided a second reference to whacking the knuckle itself, so it sounds like my second try needs to involve smacking the knuckle ... thanks for the hint!!! -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> Measure with a micrometer. Mark with chalk. Cut with an axe.
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MasterBlaster 3 April 2005 16:29:02 [ permanent link ]
	"mjt" wrote If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle> > there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on> > one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit> > the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the> > parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose.> > ( \/ ) <<<> > Hammer 1 Hammer 2> ... interesting indeed - so i take the two hammers> and hit both sides of the knuckle at the same time? No, just hold #1 against the back side and hit the other side with #2. Less chance of missing that way. (V) <2< Here's the wind-up... (V) <2< And the pitch... (V)<2< thwack V pop (hopefully)>1>( )<2<
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Mjt 3 April 2005 18:17:10 [ permanent link ]
	("MasterBlaster" <Nobody's.Home@My.Place>) scribbled: ... interesting indeed - so i take the two hammers> > and hit both sides of the knuckle at the same time?> No, just hold #1 against the back side and hit the other side with #2.> Less chance of missing that way.> (V) <2< Here's the wind-up...> (V) <2< And the pitch...> (V)<2< thwack> V pop (hopefully)> >1>( )<2< ... thanks! -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> echo "Your stdio isn't very std." -- Larry Wall in Configure from the perl distribution
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BuddyWh 3 April 2005 21:14:41 [ permanent link ]
	On Sun, 03 Apr 2005 12:29:02 GMT, "MasterBlaster" <Nobody's.Home@My.Place> wrote: "mjt" wrote> If you mean pulling the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle>> > there is an easy way. You need two good sized hammers. Put one hammer on>> > one side of the socket on the knuckle. Now take the other hammer and hit>> > the opposite side of the knuckle. (Like you were trying to crush the>> > parts) Give it a good whack and the stud should pop loose.>> > ( \/ ) <<<>> > Hammer 1 Hammer 2>> ... interesting indeed - so i take the two hammers>> and hit both sides of the knuckle at the same time?> No, just hold #1 against the back side and hit the other side with #2.>Less chance of missing that way.> I like this!... the energy of the blow is transferred through the knuckle and absorbed by the hammer on the other side. Very little energy should transfer back into the car through the suspension components, possibly stressing other parts and bushings! If there's a next time for me, I'll have two of these hammers when I do this! BuddyWh
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Mjt 4 April 2005 04:30:28 [ permanent link ]
	("Comboverfish" <comboverfish@yahoo.com>) scribbled: All of the advice about hammers is great, and will work for your> Trooper. I use a 2 lb ball pein hammer which seems to be the ideal> length/ weight. I don't use two hammers as it is unnecessary and> requires more coordination that retracts from the force/accuracy I> would like to apply.> For everyone else -- let it be said that this is great for cast iron> knuckles like the OP has. Do not try it on stamped steel components> (96-up 4runner upper arms for example) or other castings like aluminum> or magnesium. Use a puller and assist with hammer blows to the puller> screw head if needed in those cases. ... good information on the cast iron knuckels versus non-cast ! -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> Lowery's Law: If it jams -- force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
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Mjt 4 April 2005 04:32:15 [ permanent link ]
	(BuddyWh <root@localhost.>) scribbled: No, just hold #1 against the back side and hit the other side with #2.> >Less chance of missing that way.> > I like this!... the energy of the blow is transferred through the> knuckle and absorbed by the hammer on the other side. ... interesting about the absorption. maybe i should have paid attention in "phy sci" class -- << http://michaeljtobler.homelinux.com () >> Spelling is a lossed art.
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tips or tricks to remove upper ball joints

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