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Is my Coil Bad?
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CarGuru > Technology > Is my Coil Bad? 4 March 2005 04:48:04

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Is my Coil Bad?

Libby Chantel 23 February 2005 07:50:55
 96 Chevrolet C1500 1/2 ton truck, 4.3l 6 cyl

Hi, people

I am slowly trying to run down the cause of an intermittent misfire on
the truck above. It gets warm, then the MIL comes on and it starts
running bad. I have replaced plugs, wires, cap & rotor. The ignition
module checked out OK. Can't find any vacumn leak by physically
observing. Now I am checking the coil. According to the Wells manual at
Auto Zone, the secondary should read 5000 to 25000 ohms and the primary
should read .1 ohm.

When the coil is cold it reads as follows:
Primary: .1 @ 200 meter setting
Secondary: 5.86 @ 20k setting

Engine at operating temperature:
Primary: 2.9 @ 200 meter setting
Secondary: 6.33 @ 20k setting

The primary resistance is 3 times what is expected when the coil is
hot. Does this mean it is really good or really bad?

Thanks,
Libby

Add comment
Libby Chantel 23 February 2005 21:11:47 permanent link ]
 The coil doesn't set a code of it's own. The code is P0300 - multiple
misfire, which a bad coil could cause.

Add comment
Mike Romain 23 February 2005 21:43:32 permanent link ]
 There should be a hot and a cold reading on the coil. For instance mine
calls for 1.13-1.23 ohms cold on the primary and 1.5 ohms hot. This is
not a large jump. Yours has a large jump so I would be suspecting it
unless the book calls for that much jump?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Libby Chantel wrote:>
The coil doesn't set a code of it's own. The code is P0300 - multiple> misfire, which a bad coil could cause.
Add comment
Libby Chantel 23 February 2005 23:00:13 permanent link ]
 So far I can't find the actual spec on that particular coil. guess I
will go to AZ and read their Haynes manual. What they had in the Wells
book just gave one value each for Primary / secondary, hence my
confusion.

Add comment
Do Not Spam Me 24 February 2005 01:05:34 permanent link ]
 
Libby Chantel wrote:
96 Chevrolet C1500 1/2 ton truck, 4.3l 6 cyl
intermittent misfire> > I am checking the coil. According to the Wells> > manual at Auto Zone, the secondary should read> 5000 to 25000 ohms and the primary should read .1 ohm.>
When the coil is cold it reads as follows:> Primary: .1 @ Secondary: 5.86K
Engine at operating temperature:> Primary: 2.9 Secondary: 6.33K

Probably, but if this is an expensive coil, consider getting it tested
with a coil ringer, which auto electrical shops and TV shops should
have, because it can detect even slight shorts in the windings that an
ohmmeter will miss.

Add comment
Bruce Chang 24 February 2005 01:18:51 permanent link ]
 As far as I understand, the primary coil should be anywhere from .5 to 1.5
ohms while the secondary should have anywhere from 6-10 thousand ohms
resistance. Resistance should increase with temperature but I can't imagine
you'd get a 29X change in resistance on the primary.

-Bruce


"Libby Chantel" <LibbyChantel@netsc­ape.net> wrote in message
news:1109130654.978­230.118580@z14g2000c­wz.googlegroups.com.­..> 96 Chevrolet C1500 1/2 ton truck, 4.3l 6 cyl>
Hi, people>
I am slowly trying to run down the cause of an intermittent misfire on> the truck above. It gets warm, then the MIL comes on and it starts> running bad. I have replaced plugs, wires, cap & rotor. The ignition> module checked out OK. Can't find any vacumn leak by physically> observing. Now I am checking the coil. According to the Wells manual at> Auto Zone, the secondary should read 5000 to 25000 ohms and the primary> should read .1 ohm.>
When the coil is cold it reads as follows:> Primary: .1 @ 200 meter setting> Secondary: 5.86 @ 20k setting>
Engine at operating temperature:> Primary: 2.9 @ 200 meter setting> Secondary: 6.33 @ 20k setting>
The primary resistance is 3 times what is expected when the coil is> hot. Does this mean it is really good or really bad?>
Thanks,> Libby>


Add comment
Guest 25 February 2005 12:01:20 permanent link ]
 Dude, it's way out of spec, right? Replace it. What's it going to be,
50 bucks or so?

Add comment
Libby Chantel 2 March 2005 22:53:39 permanent link ]
 The coil turned out to be ok, just FYI everyone.
I appreciate all your help.
Libby

Add comment
Oilyspill 2 March 2005 23:28:39 permanent link ]
 My info says the p300 code is usually caused by a lean condition. Too
much air, maybe a vacuum leak or not enough gas. If you have the cfi
fuel system, they are noted for problems.

If you think it is an ignition issue, I have heard of using a
timing-lite to see the misfire, I've never tried it, I guess the timing
pulse will act-up.

Add comment
Libby Chantel 3 March 2005 00:56:10 permanent link ]
 My P0300 was caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator. It was leaking
gas into the intake manifold and also causing too much gas to go thru
injectors, making it run too rich and misfire. It was not fun to
replace.

Add comment
Oilyspill 3 March 2005 02:00:37 permanent link ]
 It seems to me that a no fuel condition wouldn't have anything to do
with the spark. To me, ignition means spark. If three cylinders were
dead because of lack of fuel, there still should be a spark?

If the plug gap was bridged, then the timing-lite pulse may be
deceiving. I believe there would still be a timing pulse even though
the cylinder wouldn't ignite.

I used a cheap inductive spark tester not a timing lite, on a DIS
system once, the lite was so irregular, I guess because of the exhaust
spark, I didn't like it at all, took it back and got the old regular
spark tester, where you could see the spark itself. I've never used
that on DIS ignition.

If you used a regular spark tester, the kind where you unplug the boot
and put it on the tester, on a DIS ignition system, would the companion
plug still fire? I'm going to try it one day, just out of curiousity.
It is interesting.

Add comment
Me 3 March 2005 03:15:37 permanent link ]
 On 2 Mar 2005 14:00:37 -0800, "oilyspill" <oilyspill@hotmail.­com> wrote:

<snip>>If you used a regular spark tester, the kind where you unplug the boot>and put it on the tester, on a DIS ignition system, would the companion>plug still fire? I'm going to try it one day, just out of curiousity.>It is interesting.

Yes it would
Add comment
Aarcuda69062 3 March 2005 05:11:18 permanent link ]
 In article
<1109800836.984740.­278310@o13g2000cwo.g­ooglegroups.com>,
"oilyspill" <oilyspill@hotmail.­com> wrote:
If you used a regular spark tester, the kind where you unplug the boot> and put it on the tester, on a DIS ignition system, would the companion> plug still fire? I'm going to try it one day, just out of curiousity.> It is interesting.

If you had a plug wire long enough, you could clip the spark
tester onto the block of another car, (start the first car of
course) and it would fire.
Add comment
Oilyspill 3 March 2005 09:21:27 permanent link ]
 If you were doing a cylinder balance test on a vehicle with DIS
ignition, pulling one plug-wire would kill two cylinders?

But, as long as you used a spark tester, the companion cylinder would
still fire.

I guess you would have to kill the engine everytime you changed plug
wires and restart. I wouldn't want to handle the wire with the engine
running, I tried that before, that stuff has a bite to it. I was even
holding an insulated screwdriver handle, still got me. I was dancing a
jig hollering at the helper to turn the key off. The vehicle was OBD1.
thanks

Add comment
Aarcuda69062 3 March 2005 10:32:21 permanent link ]
 In article
<1109827287.718657.­118800@z14g2000cwz.g­ooglegroups.com>,
"oilyspill" <oilyspill@hotmail.­com> wrote:
If you were doing a cylinder balance test on a vehicle with DIS> ignition, pulling one plug-wire would kill two cylinders?

You don't want to be pulling wires off if the engine is running.
The voltage is going to go somewhere, odds are, it will arc
across the coil winding causing damage or find it's way to the
ignition module causing damage.
But, as long as you used a spark tester, the companion cylinder would> still fire.

For these purposes of discussion, the coil doesn't care whether
the spark occurs inside the combustion chamber or outside of it.
I guess you would have to kill the engine everytime you changed plug> wires and restart. I wouldn't want to handle the wire with the engine> running, I tried that before, that stuff has a bite to it. I was even> holding an insulated screwdriver handle, still got me. I was dancing a> jig hollering at the helper to turn the key off. The vehicle was OBD1.> thanks

Much easier and safer to cut a piece of vacuum hose for each
cylinder, install the vacuum hose in between the plug wire and;
the plug or the coil tower (which ever is easier), start the
engine and short the spark at the piece of vacuum hose with a
grounding probe or a test light connected to ground.
of course, you want to disable the idle control and disconnect
the O2 sensor (force open loop) for accurate readings.

If you must poke, probe or mess around with the plug wires with
the engine running, connect a ground wire to the tool your using
so if the spark arcs to the tool, it will be shunted to ground
instead of zapping you.
Add comment
Oilyspill 4 March 2005 04:48:04 permanent link ]
 
Thanks for the reply, I've heard of using pieces of vacuum hose. I've
also heard of using a piece of coaxe-cable, like you use on your tv.
Ground one end to the engine block, strip the insulation back off the
other end far enough so you can backprobe the plug boot and short the
spark to that cylinder.

When I was using the screwdriver, I was trying to see if the spark
would jump to engine ground. The insulation on the handle may have been
cracked or the handle was greasy, maybe, don't know. thanks

Add comment
 

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CarGuru > Technology > Is my Coil Bad? 4 March 2005 04:48:04

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