Vapor lock is probably not where to look here. Most modern electronic> F.I. systems run enough pressure from the pumps to virtually make this> an impossibility. If properly diagnosed & the headache can be> reproduced at will, you should be able to determine what is lacking at> the time of no start, (no spark or no fuel) , then go from there.> Sounds like you have already experienced the "cap rotor wires" syndrome> & attacked the fuel syst. somewhat but you need to stop blindly> throwing parts at it & attack from an intelligent standpoint. Good> luck.>

the problem can never be reproduced at will. how do you suggest determing no> spark or no fuel on the side of the road? anything i can do? everything gets> ruled out because 'if it were faulty, it would always be faulty, not just> sometimes'...

Sounds like an ignition module problem to me. Modules will get hot> quickly and quit firing and once they cool, they will work again, until> it quits working all together.>

Had the same problem with two different toyotas. Drove me, my> independent mechanic and the local Toyota dealer crazy on the first> car.>

I ended up replacing the carbureutor to no avail. Turns out it was the> ignition coil was getting weak. Worked fine if there was no water> moisture, but as if it was damp, the engine would heat up or something> and there was enough steam under the hood to make it act up about a> mile down the road after a cold start.>

Eventually, it go so it was hard to start. I'd check the coil and make> sure it is operating properly. Unless you expect a dry spring....>

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 05:11:57 GMT, fusQuanto> <fusQuanto@yahooNOS­PAM.com> wrote:>

///////////////////­////////////////////­////////////////////­//////////////////> ///////////////> >> what hole thing. > >

No I don't think you would need to do that. Depending on your> vehicle, there are so many vintage technologies still around it is> impossible for me to -know- what is in/on each engine anymore, never> mind by model, but even YEAR, as time marches on.>

Actually that is quite simple to do, believe it or not. You can buy a> little test device at an auto parts store that uses the> electromagnetic field around each plug wire as a source of energy to> drive a Light emitting diode *aka LED*>

It is a good idea to keep in mind there is enough hi voltage in those> wires to send your heart into a tailspin and knock you off your feet.> When using a device such as this, you would be advised to attach it to> an insulated rod of some kind. Glass is a good insulator, so is> rubber, some plastics.>

Then you can just hold this little led glow plug next to each wire and> verify that it is taking a full charge to the plugs each time it> illuminates. do this for each wire, and your question is answered.>

You will notice it will fire each wire during one revolution of the> rotor/reluctor in the distributor. If you find a dead wire, then> suspect the _wire_ before assuming anything else is bad. You can> measure the resistance of the wires with an ohm meter. They usually> have a carbon thread going down the middle of them to cut down on> spurious pulse radio frequency emissions which would interefere with> many communications devices, so the wires are rather fragile in that> respect. No sharp bends. Handle with caution, and NEVER TOUCH THEM> while the engine is running. ever.>

But you will see in less than 60 seconds if all your wires are firing> with this little light. It isn't easy to see in bright sunlight, so> dusk is a good time to do this, and use a flashlight to guide you from> wire to wire.>

Again, hands away from the dang wires. And wear rubber soled> shoes/boots when doing this. And keep one hand in your pocket at all> times, IOW don't use your free hand to lean on the car body.>

We're talking a LOT of volts here, enough to knock you to the ground,> and if your heart is in less than perfect shape, well, let's not go> there.>

A guy at Midas told me I may have a "vapor lock" problem, but > I dont > know anything about that. He said the fuel line is heating up > fast while the > engine is still cold, creating vapors in the lines that block > the fuel from > pumping through, and after it stalls and I let it sit for 15 > minutes, the > temperatures equalize and the car is good to go again... He > asked me if I had > replaced any parts from the fuel system (like aftermarket > modifications), but I > have not, everything is stock. >

Anyone have any clue what this may be? please help! thanks

1. the ecm, if not repaired or replaced already, will have to > be replaced sooner or later. reason - defective capacitors in > the ecm will have gone bad, and leak acid that will ruin the > ckt board and other parts that it touches see this site for > more info: > http://www.avproecm­.com/process1.htm > the caps (three i think, maybe two...) you will have to buy > are easy to find, but not "generic" - make sure they are a > "lo-esr" cap. >

2. the airflow sensor - located inside the air duct from the > front of the car. check the voltages up until the failure > mode. try taking the sensor out of the ckt and if possible > subsitute a resistor to simulate the sensor. >

3. the distributor and/or coil. bad coil should be easy to > diagnose. if it's the pick-up in distributor will mean a $229 > fix from your local advance auto parts