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CarGuru > Technology > Zero lash Cont. 31 January 2005 18:59:26

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Zero lash Cont.
Rojo2G 29 January 2005 09:58:02
	As recomended I TDC'd each cylinder(chey 6 cycl.) and tightened out the play on the pushrod, plus about 5/8 rev. on the nut. I rotated the engine by hand and rechecked the play. Most had play again so I repeated the tightening a second time. I spun the engine once more and still had to tighten a couple of valves because of play. Now, my question is......did I over do it? When I check it again tomorrow
		Add comment


Mike Romain 29 January 2005 19:43:59 [ permanent link ]
	How to burn out hydraulic valves in one easy lesson.... Adjust them dry. They are 'hydraulic' Lifters! They must be pumped up with oil to work. I do not understand why you would listen to 'armchair "mechanics"' on any internet group rather than believing the manual you have that outlines the proper way to do it? Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Rojo2G wrote:> As recomended I TDC'd each cylinder(chey 6 cycl.) and tightened out the play on> the pushrod, plus about 5/8 rev. on the nut. I rotated the engine by hand and> rechecked the play. Most had play again so I repeated the tightening a second> time. I spun the engine once more and still had to tighten a couple of valves> because of play.> Now, my question is......did I over do it? When I check it again tomorrow
		Add comment


Shiden_kai 29 January 2005 23:54:40 [ permanent link ]
	Mike Romain wrote You have no clue what my qualifications are Ian. Your answers to mechanical questions give me a clue. The OP obviously does not know how to install a head or adjust> hydraulic valves. Most people that do it for the first time are in the same boat. Everybody has to learn something for the first time. Telling him to do it dry by 'feel' like you 'professional mechanics'> do (and I use that term 'very' loosely') in your next post is giving> him one fast lesson on how to burn out valves. He more than> obviously does 'not' have the 'feel' for it so he should just do it> by the book like most 'normal' people do. Ah....so you'll "burn out the valves" doing it my way, eh? The way that I describe doing it is right out of any GM service manual that you want to look at. Doing it manually while the engine running is a hold over from the days when all that you had to do to get the valve covers off was remove 4 bolts (chevy small block). The way I describe doing it is "the" factory method. Here, I'll even include a quote from GM's SI...... With the engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 1, 3, 4, and 8 and the intake valves for cylinders number 1, 2, 5, and 7. 1.. Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod. 2.. Turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise until all the valve lash is removed. Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve push rod. 3.. When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).> He does 'not' say they are new lifters so the spring pressure will> 'not' be the same between any two lifters and some springs could even> be collapsed a bit. If he has a lifter with a collapsed spring, he has other problems....we are talking about "all things being equal". I have seen lots of folks use the 'feel' method saying they don't> 'need' to do it 'right' , only to have low power and dead heads in 6> months or less. FFS you are stupid....the feel method is the "factory" method...or don't you have any reading comprehension? Ian
		Add comment


Mike Romain 30 January 2005 00:37:52 [ permanent link ]
	shiden_kai wrote:> If he has a lifter with a collapsed spring, he has other problems....we> are talking about "all things being equal".> In the start of this thread he says the lash changes every time he rotates the engine, so all things certainly aren't 'equal' now are they? Therefore I stand by stating he should adjust them pumped up like his book says to do and the way to do old lifters. It isn't that freaking messy if he keeps the idle down and it is the only 'safe' and not confusing way I know of to adjust old valves. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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Mike Romain 30 January 2005 19:30:49 [ permanent link ]
	What happens if you have old sticky lifters that don't come all the way back up when compressed dry like the OP 'appears' to have? (weak springs, a dirt or varnish ring, sludge in the hole, whatever) You can only be sure the first one is at the top because you have to rotate the engine for the next so all lifters are moved before adjusting. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's pater wrote:> New lifters or used, as I recommended in the first post & in complete> agreeent with Ian, you can do them statically with absolutely no> headaches. Adjust them on the way back together with your motor, button> up the valve covers, when it's time, start the thing up, have a nice> day. Overthinking & "booklearning" theories on this board are rampant &> as some of us know, people are sometimes giving advise based on these> principals & not on actual experience. It seems the problem in this> case is either the original poster is over parinoid or shouldn't be> doing this job himself to begin with. Adjust 'em once, if done> correctly, & forget about it, go on to the next step. If he had them> adjusted then turned the thing over by hand & found play in the ones he> already had done, then he did something wrong the first time, thus> justifying my "find somebody that knows what their doing to get it done> for ya" theory. Good luck.
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Rojo2G 31 January 2005 02:08:22 [ permanent link ]
	What happens if you have old sticky lifters that don't come all >the way back up when compressed dry like the OP 'appears' to >have? I'm the parnoid. I want to thank everyone whose posted I read them all and take the advice gladly. This engine( 79'GMC, 250), I've had since new, has 250,000 mi on it, no rebuilds. There was sluge and crust on the push rods. I cleaned them up and returned them to the same location. The head , I changed was used out of a running but unknown engine to me. While I am trying to do it carefully and according to direction, there can be a lot of variables that aren't there on a low mileage engine. There is lot of experience in this newsgroup and I thought I'd tap it. Thank you and I appreciate everyones time and effort on this. Rojo
		Add comment


Mike Romain 31 January 2005 18:59:26 [ permanent link ]
	pater wrote:> Havin trouble trying to figure out just what message your trying to> convey here. End of story/involvement with this one. The only message you snipped out of all that garbage although it had a spelling error for '(lifters)'.... "Quote" I don't trust old lifters for a set and button it up deal because I have seen too many folks fail at it. They (liters) are sneaky SOB's "End Quote" Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
		Add comment

CarGuru > Technology > Zero lash Cont. 31 January 2005 18:59:26

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