Sunday, 15 June 2008
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| RTV gasket or Rubber gasket? Denny B 10:30:05 |
| | Purchased a transmission filter kit for my 2006 Dodge caravan 3.3L from NAPA. Kit has , filter, O ring and rubber transmission pan gasket. This will be first filter and fluid change on vehicle.
As I understand it, as the vehicle now stands the transmission pan gasket does not have a rubber gasket but Mopar ATF RTV MS-GF41 ( silicon? ) Will I have any known problems getting the pan off with this RTV?
The manual tells you to put a 1/8 inch bead of the above on the Transmission pan when replacing it. It also says put this RTV under the bolt heads. I want to use the rubber pan gasket that came with the kit.
Is there a preference between a rubber gasket and RTV?
Thank you in advance Denny B Rtv
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| A/C freon question J 10:22:14 |
| | I have a 1994 Chevrolet Corsica with a 6 cylinder engine. The freon leaked out over the winter. Wal-Mart has recharge kits that contain R-134 freon. Is R-134 the correct type for this car?
Also, which is the low pressure line, the one with the blue plastic cap that is located under the radiator fan, or the one with the red cap that is on top near the top of the radiator?
Thank you for helping.
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Saturday, 14 June 2008
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| Re: unnecessary maintenance recommended by dealer? Mortimer 10:48:42 |
| | <leebreisacher@gmail.com> wrote in message news:c00ba5d2-329d-4b9b-9652-5ca625f3ac33@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
We have a 2005 Toyota Sienna. I've been taking it to the dealer we bought it from for its regular service. But it seems like every time I take it in for "just an oil change", they say it needs this thing or that thing, for $100 here and $150 there. For example, today I had it in for 41,000 mile service ($79). They recommended a transmission flush ($180), an EFI service (I don't remember what that one is, $140), an alignment ($90), and a cabin filter ($70). I told them to just do the oil change and I'd think about the rest of it. So, my questions are: 1. Do I really need all that stuff? I'm quite skeptical. 2. If I don't do these things, will it affect my warranty, either actually, or informally (i.e. they give me a hard time because I didn't follow their recommendations)? 3. Should I trust this dealer? I tend to think of a service as a time when the whole car is checked in case any parts may have worn and need replacing, in addition to the routine items like oil change and (less frequently) cambelt change. Unless you notice symptoms when you are driving the car, it is the only time that many "non-customer-serviceable" items will be checked.
So if you trust the judgement of the garage not to recommend unnecessary work (to boost their own profit) then I'd suggest that you ask them to do whatever work they recommend. If you don't trust their judgement, find another garage.
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| Re: Ethanol fuel may be harming your vehicle Hls 10:39:39 |
| | "aarcuda69062" <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:nonelson-
I was at an AC Delco seminar last night, the recommendations listed in the owners manual still apply and it probably says no more than 10% ethanol, 0% methanol unless specifically built as a flex fuel vehicle. The instructor touched on how they identify warranty fuel pumps that have been subjected to too much ethanol (the plastics change color) which is usually accompanied by excess armature wear and the fact that ethanol is electrically conductive and how they fuel injectors use different materials to deal with that... Methanol is still sold, I guess, to "dry" moist fuel, but I wouldnt use it, nor is it very effective. There are better ways to do that job.
The action of the lower alcohols on plastics and metals is not simple. Some plastics and "rubber" (elastomers) tolerate these alcohols well. Others dont.
Either methanol or ethanol can react directly with some metals...Water does not have to be present if the metal is chemically "active". But add water, and you have a different situation again.
If you have a flex fuel vehicle, care has been taken to be sure the metals and elastomers are compatible with the fuels involved, but as has already been mentioned, if you own an older car, it may have very susceptible parts.
The alcohols are not bad fuels, if the engine is designed to use them. Alcohol, from corn, is a con job.
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| curt vs. cequent trailer hitch? Nate Nagel 05:55:07 |
| | Any opinions on a Curt trailer hitch, as opposed to Cequent (Reese/Draw-Tite/Hidden Hitch)? JCW has a Curt hitch for my truck for $120 including a ball mount. But if there is an advantage to a more expensive hitch I'm not averse to spending more. Primary considerations are quality and the ability to retain my spare tire under the bed, which isn't clear from the Curt web site. Vehicle is a '93 F-150, short wide bed, extended cab.
thanks
nate
-- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Friday, 13 June 2008
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| Re: Lubricate parking brake cables, yes or no? Steve B . 22:22:45 |
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Trying a quick google does not give any really authoritative results. I wonder if some of the experienced mechanics in this group have any advice? Thanks! There are no front parking brake cables. Parking brake is attached to the rear only. No need to lubricate those cables. You should be fine for another 30 years with a new set.
Steve B.
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| Re: QUESTION: where's the early 944 A/C low pressure port? William Noble 03:09:58 |
| | look near the comperssor itself - on the fitting that attaches to the compressor inlet <jonb55198@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:804e265f-1062-4f2d-a790-4cd75c2fce1e@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Hi, I went to service my AC the other day, and I could not find the low pressure port on teh early 944 (i have a 1984 944). It is different from the later 944's that i've seen. On the late 944's the low side port is near the driver's side shock tower. On mine, it is no where to be found. I found the high pressure port behind he driver's headlight near the drier receiver. Anyone know where the low side is and how to access it? Anything i must buy for conversion other than the usual (i saw that there is a 90 degree elbow, do i need this?) Thanks.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Thursday, 12 June 2008
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| Re: 93 cadillac deville speedometer Sdlomi2 22:11:19 |
| | If the tranny has wiring going to it, make sure the connectors are clean and tight. HTH, s
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| Update (for anyone interested). Problem discovered Cleo Frank 19:21:50 |
| | "Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car, and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc. Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post), got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected. The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged. But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing. It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained this thing was right in front of my eyes practically the whole time, next to battery ..DUHHHHHH
Car is now its usual chipper self!
THANKS!
Ideas?
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| Re: Gas tank repair. Guest 17:09:01 |
| | I am in the process of hauling off a lot of scrap iron things I have collected over many years.Right now my old van is loaded with metal that I need to take to the scrap iron yard this morning.I have a five gallon plastic boat gas tank that has a float gage built into the gas cap.Right now, I am trying to get by with the van's factory gas tank long enough to get all of my scrap iron hauled off.Then I am going to fix up the boat gas tank. cuhulin
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| Re: Reeaalyy OT. Gas Mileage Deduction? Lugnut 16:48:03 |
| | On Mon, 9 Jun 2008 14:14:20 -0700 (PDT), bajazza@yahoo.com wrote:
Sorry for the OT post...with gas hitting 5.00 a gallon, does anyone know what the current per-mile deduction is for this year? TIA Jay
The most current rate is $0.505/mi.
http://tinyurl.com/4fjmow
I have seen this rate in other sites. I don't see how anyone can operate a vehicle on that. I think the actual cost were higher than that last year. They will probably be under pressure to raise that figure before it is all done.
Lugnut
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Wednesday, 11 June 2008
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| Re: Hummer H2 - brake pedal goes to floor Ralf Ballis 22:46:15 |
| | "Reno" <spanky@shaw.ca> schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:Xns9ABA96412B963REGS@24.66.94.159...
I am concerned - how can pedal go all the way down if there is not something wrong with the master cylinder? Have your checked break fluid level? I haven't driven the Hummer yet, but this is signification for air in the system.
Regards,
Ralf
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| Re: Puusoutuveneen korjaus Aimo Heinonen 04:24:59 |
| | Fortumille lunta tupaan. Valtio ostattaa sen ulos FingridistÄ. Ja tutusti asia taas niin vaikeaa, ettei lÆytynyt edes tekstitv:n puolelta. Siltaappaa!
Vasta viikko sitten OL-3 projekti meni plutoniumpaskojen laittomista poltoista USA:han 3v tutkintaan.
Fennovoimalle kenomonoa Kristiinan kuntafiksuilta, jotta sinkelit lentÄÄ!. ..
Ydinkriittisempi Urpiainen syrjÄytti ydinkiimaissemmat Nartrit.. ..
Pohjolan ydinvoimalat 80% ajossa ja tiedossa ilmeinen megaleka laittomasta 60 polttolimiitin ylityksestÄ 75!
Uraanipositiivikaivuu loppu 2007 ja plutoniumjalostus kaatui 11% saantifloppiin laserilla. Cernin kenkkuilut jatkuu. ..)
Ja hemmetti kun lipsahti vielÄ julkisuuteen myÆs noi TVO:n kohtalokkaanhuonot tritiumvuototiedot.
MÄntyankeroinen vie puun myÆtÄ rakentamiskiimat maastamme. Ei auta vaikka ydinklingonit vaikeena vaikee faktoista!
Beettasoihtuava ydinaavikoituminen levii hurjiin mitoihin. Ja kohta ydinsyyllisyyttÄ ei peitÄ mehilÄistuhoissa, kampamaneeteissa, tai edes sammako/matelijoitten tritiumlammikkokuoloista jne. enÄÄ MIKääN!
KyllÄ on MäLSää ydinalalla nykyÄÄn! ______________________________
.. . ..Jaa hemmetin hauskaa ydinvastustajilla! Niin hubaa, ettÄ piti ihan "TVO/Pohjolan seinille kiipeillÄ!"!)
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| Re: Sosialismi ja liberalismi Dominik Aufgeschnitten 02:51:18 |
| | MTV uutiset 28.04-08. Jopas meinasin tuoliltani tippua, kun MTV kommentoi, miten maailmaamme nyt raateleva nÄlÄnhÄtÄkehitys on saamassa aiemmin tÄÄllÄ vedÄtetyn eilisen riisilajipulan sijaan uutta megalomaniaansa. Eli nyt jo alkaa kummasti irrota vihdoin viimein suorastaan pÆyristyttÄvÄÄ faktaa, kun on PAKKO. Sanottiin SUORAAN syyksi, ettei maailman poliitiset systeemit ole huomioimneet maaseutua sikamaisesti lainkaan! TÄmÄ on tietysti siltÄ osin totta, ettÄ maaseudun poliittinen ja rikollinen terrorisointi on tuhonut paljon. Eli politiikkaa nyt kaupataan selkeÄnÄ osasyynÄ maailmanlaajuiseen tulevaan ruokakatastrofiin. Kas kun kukaan ei riisirehuja elÄimille anna, eikÄ myÆs Suomi ole poltellut ruokiaan bienergiaksi, kuten tÄhÄn asti on aina valehdeltu. Edes etanoliriisejÄ ei ole tehty!
Mutta raakaan faktaan, maailmalla on jo kuulema 37 maata nÄlkÄkatastrofissa nyt! Vaikka vasta eilen oli USA:ssa vain "mitÄtÆn" vÄliaikainen sÄÄnnÆstelyn hupailu. PÄivÄn pÄÄstÄ maailmassa on 37 maata nÄlkÄmellakoissa. LieneekÆ siis takana maailman rajuin nÄlÄn yÆ.. ? Vai onko nÄmÄ mun esillÄ pitÄmÄt salatut maailmanlaajuiset nÄlkÄkatastrofit tieten pidetty ydintyyliimme Suomen tiedotusmonopolien poliittisesta syystÄ tarkoin piilossa! jottei vaan maalaisten ahdinkoon tarvitsisi myÆs TEHDä jotain! .. Siis AIVAN VARMASTI!
Mutta yhÄ mua hÄmmÄstyttÄÄ miksi edelleen vaietaan siitÄ miksi meremme tyhjenee elÄmÄstÄ, mehilÄiset katoaa, lentokoneet putoilee kuin viimeistÄ pÄivÄÄ oranssiauringonlaskuionisaatiopilviin, ja miksei pelloillemme, edes janoomme enÄÄ riitÄ edes vettÄ?! Aivan oikein ydinhallintomme on jÄÄrÄpÄisesti pÄÄttÄnyt EDELLEEN vaieta synnyttÄmÄstÄÄn maapallomme tulevaisuuden jo nyt vaakalaudalle saattaneesta beettasoihtuamisten ydinaavikoitumistuhosta! Mutta kuten huomaamme PAKON edessÄ tÄmÄ maalaisten hÄrski ja sikailukulttuurinen kohtelu joudutaan tuomaan julki. VielÄ tulee muuten eteen myÆs se pÄivÄ jolloin nÄille kaikelle on myÆs TEHTäVä jotain! Ja yhtÄ varmaa on myÆs se, ettÄ ydinalan on myÆs aika myÆntÄÄ itsensÄ syylliseksi supersalattuun ydinmaavikoitumistuhoaaltoon joka jo lupaavasti orastaa. EdessÄ siis jÄnniÄ vuosia!
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Sunday, 8 June 2008
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| OSD 11 Scanner? Denny B 23:35:41 |
| | What make of OBD 11 scanner is appropriate to use on a 2006 Dodge Caravan.
In electronic servicing Fluke is a standard make of meter used.
What are good ( working ) OSD 11 meters?
Thank you in advance
Denny B
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| Re: Viton vs PTFE Rear Main Seal Frank 15:29:35 |
| | hhhmayo@aol.com wrote:
I'm overhauling my 94 DOHC engine again, and as I look at ROck-Auto's web site, I notice that they have THREE choices for rear-main seal available. Since the mains on the Saturn DOHC engines are usually leakers, I guess they are designed to address the problem. One is an "improved design" from Fel Pro that is a couple of millimeters thicker. One is made of Viton. The last one says it's made of PTFE. Now I don't know which of them to get. Does anybody have any idea which is likely to be the best? Larry I cannot respond based on actual usage but Viton, like PTFE is a fluorinated polymer: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viton It is designed for high temperature O rings and would probably be the material to use.
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| Re: Repeatedly Running On A Low Tank? Hachiroku 05:44:14 |
| | On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 22:15:25 +0000, Kevin wrote:
hachiroku <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in news:ocD2k.63$Jj1.5@trndny02: On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 10:47:35 -0400, Bill Putney wrote: Let's see...science says more dirt will pass with one of these Inspections say no more than the stock filter get through... So which do you believe? Both can't be true. I have a tendancy to trust my eyes more than what someone tells me. Someone told me Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube was better then mineral oil of the same weight. I drained the Mobil 1 out of the diff, filled it with Valvoline mineral oil (and the GM additive) and could feel the now your just being stupid. KB
Gee, I knew what it felt like before changing the oil, and after. Based on what it felt like from one end of the driveway to the other, I could tell right as soon as I shifted into reverse it was doing better, since it didn't feel like the rear end was shaking off the car.
I would guess since I lived with it for a week, I would have a better idea of the difference in the feel than you...
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Saturday, 7 June 2008
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| Re: Discovery Channel - Turbo Rodan 20:00:47 |
| | team_turbo_at_discov...@yahoo.com wrote:
I am a producer with the Discovery Channel and I wanted to let you know about some new features on our Turbo Website, which is about automobiles, motorcycles, boats and airplanes........
We recently started a new feature at the website which allows visitors to submit a photo of their automobile or motorcycle to our Daily Ride blog ......
You might also find some other interesting features on the site, a lot of video, games and a variety of other interactive content you can explore, including some cool wallpaper for your desktop ... ______________________________________________________
"Don Stauffer" wrote:
Do you only want pictures of turbocharged cars? If not, why are you calling it "turbo"? ______________________________________________________
It's TurboSPAM. They don't care about your car pictures. They have plenty of car pictures. They want to get you to go to their website to see their extensive advertising.
Rodan.
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| Jury-rigging (was Re: spark plug in oil pan drain instead of bolt) Don Bruder 05:19:17 |
| | In article <4849ae63$0$10249$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosting.com>, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
You have a point about the troll, but man I have seen and done some wicked jury rigs sometimes to get home.... I think my "finest" was the night I was out on my paper route (300-ish papers, delivered over roughly the same number of road-miles, even though I never got more than a hundred miles from home in a straight line)
The PCV hose that normally attaches to the top of the valve cover came adrift partway through the run one night. Not sure of how or why, only that it did.
(Here's where I reconstruct as best I can guess) This resulted in a light spritz of oil out the open hole - where it impacted the bottom of the air cleaner, collected enough to drizzle down the horn of the air cleaner, and finally drip onto the exhaust manifold - directly under the comb that held the plug wires.
Predictably, an under-hood fire resulted. And was discovered when said fire ignited the spark plug wires, causing the engine to cease running.
At that point, I was stranded probably 6 miles from the nearest habitation, in the middle of the night, in "no service" land, with all four plug wires burned through. Things look rough for our "hero", don't they? Right about now is when the voiceover saying "Tune in next week for another chapter of our exciting tale, same bat-time, same bat-channel" should kick in, I'm thinkin'!
Ahhh, but Don carries (among other things) a wad of honest-to-god-came-off-a-hay-bale baling wire in the trunk (intended to wire up exhaust system if one of the many car-swallowing potholes on the route gets a lucky bite), and several chunks of baling twine, and a roll of duct tape reside in the floorboards of the back seat. And he has more than a passing familiarity with elecricity...
After some cutting and cobbling, I managed to finish the route and get downtown to the parts store - With baling wire chunks as conductors, supported away from the various under-hood metalwork by roadside twigs lashed together with baling twine and duct tape. I don't ever want to have to do it again, but at least I know it's possible!
-- Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist, or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow" somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
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| 02 Envoy automatic a/c Freemont 04:00:44 |
| | This is an '02 GMC Envoy. The climate control readout says 50 degrees F most of the time even though it is 90+ outside. Sometimes it drops as low as -8 degrees. It's all over the place. Even when it displays 50 degrees, though, it still blows cold. Anything below 50 and it blows hot.
Today it started blowing hot, and there was a clicking from under the dash.
Is this just an external temp sensor gone bad? Aren't they about 20 bucks?
-- "Because all you of Earth are idiots!" `·. .· `·-> freemont© <-· `·. .·
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Friday, 6 June 2008
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| Sequential Gearboxes and Cone Clutches Bentl678@Hotmail.Com 15:36:53 |
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In the sequential gearbox where the clutch is not used to dis/engage to shift gears, but each gear is applied by applying a cone clutch to bring it into mesh, what force keeps the pressure on the cone clutch ? Springs ?
How big can this mechanism be scaled before you have to use outside power hydraulic/air ?
Which vehicles use this gearbox ?
Are there any limitations to flowing a lot of torque through it ?
TIA
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| Juddering rear end (lets talk about CARS,eh?) Hachiroku 07:36:58 |
| | The car: 1988 Supra Non Turbo, AT, LSD rear end
Problems: AT not functioning properly Needs U-Joints
Replaced the LSD gear oil Friday with Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube 75W90 http://tinyurl.com/cwpvp
LS (Limited Slip) grade. Juddering from the rear of the car got WORSE. These are the circumstances:
Shift into reverse, and then shift into 1st, and the rear of the car shakes.
Stop at a stop sign or traffic light, take a left or right turn. 1/3 of the way into the turn the rear starts shaking.
Stop at a light or stop sign, and take off going straight. No problem.
It feels like the Limited Slip is trying to kick in going around corners. It is heavily pronounced in 1st gear, less so or non-existent in 2nd gear and not at all while at cruising speed in Drive. Sometimes the rear of the car shakes badly.
I'm replacing the u-joints Friday, but I have a feeling something else is going on as well. Also, some other suspects: the suspension needs to be redone: I have new springs, it needs shocks. The bushings look OK for a car this old (they look good, period)
This car has an Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) so it has CV type drive shafts; boots look OK. When we get it on the lift I'm going to give the rear end a good going over, and also check for loose body/suspension bolts.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=RA&P=16 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=RA&P=49 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=RA&P=56
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| Do they still sell car radios with real sliders & knobs on the front? OhioGuy 04:04:45 |
| | My wife and I recently found ourselves looking at that gift from the future (our future tax dollars) - the government stimulus check. We decided to use part of it to upgrade our car stereo receiver. Presently, our car stereo supports only cassette tape playback.
We found one that supports HD Radio, front USB port with MP3 playback, and a front audio input jack - all for under $130 shipped. We felt that we got a good buy.
When I got it, though, I was very unimpressed with the controls on the stereo receiver. Currently, we have a GM factory install radio. It has slider controls on it that allow us to move the signal from front to back easily whenever we need to. (like when our toddlers are in the car with us, or someone in the back needs to sleep, etc.) There are also bass & treble slider controls right on the front of the unit. We are constantly having to minimize sound to the back speakers, then turn it back up when we drive with no one in back. There is no way I want to have to go into a menu to do this.
The new unit makes you to go into a sub menu and select from different options to access these features. I've already wrecked my car once just from playing around with the tuner while I was driving, so I'm not too keen on swapping out a radio I can adjust by touch with one that essentially REQUIRES you to look at it to navigate menus. It just seems like an accident waiting to happen. It means that if I want to get the HD radio, front USB & MP3, I'll be putting my family's safety at risk to do so. I'm not very comfortable with that, so I'm thinking of sending the radio back.
However, I've also noticed that NONE of the radios I see for sale online or in stores seem to have basic functionality like the factory installed one the car currently has. I want knobs and sliders on the front, so that even a blind person could control things. I don't want flashy displays or submenus.
I'm not the only one who feels this way about it, either:
http://home.wi.rr.com/saruman/rants/rants_car_stereos.html (note, there's some rather strong language on the site)
I also noticed that it wasn't going to be an easy install, like the last time I did this. The last car radio I installed was on a 1986 Plymouth Reliant. I had to unscrew 4 lag bolts, then remove the old radio. I put the new radio inside a plastic adapter, hooked up the wires, inserted it, and put the 4 bolts back in. That was it, and it only took a couple of hours, tops.
At this point I am kind of disgusted and disheartened. I just want a simple radio that has real knobs and slider controls on the front, and has front USB and audio in, as well as HD Radio support. Does nothing like this exist anywhere?
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Thursday, 5 June 2008
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| Re: How does climate control AC work? Steve W. 20:28:16 |
| | Yong Huang wrote:
In a car with climate control, I set temperature to say 80. Does that mean the AC is running with full power but it mixes with some hot air or hot coolant to warm it up to the final temperature 80, or the 80 degree is maintained in a more economical way? I mean, does it run AC for a few minutes, stop so the inside temperature is about to go up, and then the AC starts again, like the house AC does? Yong Huang Depends on which manufacturer your talking about. It also depends on outside temperatures and what you set the temperature at.
For instance if the outside temperature is 110 and you set the interior at 80 on a GM system it will simply cycle the A/C to keep it at that temp. If it was 60 outside it would simply cycle the heat on/off through the blend doors.
-- Steve W. Near Cooperstown, New York
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