Sunday, 26 October 2008
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| 2000 Mercury Cougar Nat 02:40:41 |
| | I just bought this 2000 Mercury Cougar at a used dealer ship & sorry to
say have had nothin' but trouble with it and I have only had like two
months now! I was wondering why sometimes my car smokes under the hood
on the top left corner! It doesn't do it all the time, only sometimes.
I checked to see if it had water and oil & everything else. What
could this be? Can you please help me?
NAT
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| |  12 answers | Add comment |
Friday, 10 October 2008
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| cheer Shah Rukh Khan Ralph Cassio 14:11:06 |
| | Mark wrote on 10 Oct 2008 11:11:06 GMT:
Who can control another double drinking?
http://narrow.dostii.net
--
Jbilou, have a liquid formation. You won't tip it.
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Friday, 29 August 2008
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| Weird brake noise John61 05:42:45 |
| | It's my 2001 Impala, 70K. When braking, I can hear kinda "bell ring" noise,
like a jack hammer is working somewhere far away. The harder the brake is
applied, the louder the noise. When car windows all closed, I can hardly
hear it.
What could be wrong?
Thanks.
John
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| basic Hall-effect distributor wiring Nathan M. Gant 03:37:18 |
| | Given that the basic Hall-effect distributor will require one wire for
ground, a second wire for voltage supply or reference voltage, and a third
wire for output signal.
Probably the best question to ask is whether its output signal is actually
needed to generated a spark. Will the Hall-effect distributor generate a
spark without connecting the output signal into a computerized spark control
unit?
In other words, can I just just the 2 wires and disregard the wire for
output signal?
I have Dodge 2.2. engine, using an aftermarket 2-barrel carb running on a
modified points/condensor distributor (the ole Boss Kettering system), but I
want to install a Hall-effect distributor from a new vehicle. I am not
interested in interfacing it into a computerized control unit at the moment.
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: Cars are running by water? Hls 03:04:40 |
| |
"srividya" <mahesh.srividya62@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0bb4d15c-c4c3-418a-8fc4-72a6dadaf7da@n33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
Yes, cars can run by water...They dont do so well submerged in it, but by it
is okay.
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: A Modification of Variable Electrical Power Steering - Your opinions? Scott Dorsey 02:12:45 |
| | In article <94a2b550-3d78-4651-9d50-bc8d0abbf15f@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
ChrisCoaster <ckozicki@snet.net> wrote:
Found this link very informative and am quite impressed: It really flies in the face of the service department at my local Chevy dealer who said that there is "no modifications that can be made at present time" to the electrical power steering on my 2005 Chevy epsilon-based Malibu.
Anything can be modified. That's the way things are. If man can build
it, man can change it.
The statement that you got from your Chevy dealer was, if properly
translated, something like, "We won't modify it, your warranty is
invalided if you do, and we won't give you technical details on how
the system works."
If you are truly determined to change the equipment, you have two choices.
One is to throw enormous amounts of money at GM for a custom product. This
is very expensive, but it's possible to do and plenty of folks (like the
president and the pope) do it all the time.
The second is to reverse-engineer the system yourself. Figure out how it
works, change it to work the way you want, and hopefully post some info
to the web about it.
Anything can be changed. Don't believe anyone who tells you otherwise.
But, you might want to believe someone who tells you that it isn't worth
the money or effort.
What do y'all think?
I think the whole idea of changing the ratio on the fly is misguided and
encourages poor driving practices. Also it requires additional mechanical
and electronic stuff which can break down. I think it's a bad idea to buy
overly complicated systems in the first place.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 28 August 2008
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| Michelin radius wipers worth the money? Guest 20:21:13 |
| | Anyone out there given these a try and feel satisfied
they are worth the money?
Michelin radius wipers that is?
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Saab WIS P. Totaro 20:18:51 |
| | Hello,
I am looking for Saab WIS for 9-3 1998 to 2003 (9400). If you know where I
can download a copy or could email it to me, please let me know. Thanks
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| | Add comment |
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| Re: Great Advantages of a Hydrogen Generator For Car Scott Dorsey 18:56:26 |
| | <boxing@sasktel.net> wrote:
myth busters showed its possible to run a car on hydrogen in a garage just by feeding hydrogen into the carburator.
Yes. It's also possible to blow yourself up easily if you don't get
the mixture right.
Somewhat swankier versions of this principle have been used for decades
to run engines off of methane and natural gas. For years, Carrier sold
commercial air conditioning units that used a Briggs and Stratton engine
modified to run off natural gas.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Odd acceleration problem Mc 16:45:17 |
| | 1995 Dodge Caravan, 140K miles.
Poor acceleration, especially when restarting with warm engine after having turned it off for a few minutes, but also soon after starting with cold engine. Most noticeable during first few minutes of driving. Clears up with prolonged driving, especially at higher speeds.
By "poor acceleration" I mean two things. Starting off, I sometimes briefly have to push the pedal a good bit farther down than normal in order to get up to 30 mph. Driving along in town, and to a lesser extent on the highway, there is a slight fluctuation in speed as if I were being buffeted by headwinds.
The problem has come on very gradually over more than a year; seems to come and go intermittently; and a lot of mechanical checks a year ago didn't disclose anything. Unfortunately I don't have my notes handy about what was checked then, but I can dig this up if it's needed.
Any thoughts? What should I check for? Fuel system? Transmission? Or what? Does this bode ill for the long-term reliability of the car?
Thanks!
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Impala steering wheel falling apart? Larry W 08:35:14 |
| | N8N wrote:
Hi all, got an '05 Impala as a company car, it's developed a new "feature" recently. It's actually over its mileage limit (70K miles) but due to various factors I'm not getting a new car for a couple months yet. anyway, here's my issue - the steering wheel is well and truly wore out. Most of the top half of the wheel is already worn through the shiny coating to the foam (probably because of baking in the sun all day every day, since there's no shade in the parking lot at work or most of the job sites I would have to go to) which is annoying but no big deal. But now, the same top half of the wheel seems to have a structural issue where the foam is no longer attached to the steel core; if I grip the wheel semi-firmly and twist I can feel the foam rotating relative to the steel core. This is a very unsettling feeling when driving, although with power steering it's not an actual control issue. I was thinking of maybe injecting some glue through the foam to try to re-adhere it to the steel core, but the questions are a) what kind of glue could I use that would actually work and wouldn't degrade the foam farther, and b) where could I get a syringe to inject said glue without being suspected of being a junkie or terrorist? Needless to say, a leather steering wheel cover will be my first purchase after getting my new car. The second will be a set of heavy rubber floor mats (whoever thought it was a good idea to put carpeted floormats in a work vehicle, anyway?) and the third will be a cargo net (shouldn't that be standard equipment on any vehicle?) nate
Had same problem with a 2002 Sunfire. Occurred after 2 yrs. and was
replaced under warranty. When dealer checked it out he said it was a
"safety issue". Check with your dealer, there may be a hidden recall on it.
Larry
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| | 21 answer | Add comment |
Wednesday, 27 August 2008
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| Does the thermostat need replaced? August_2008 23:04:06 |
| | I have a 2001 Chevy Impala. The temp gauge is reading at the bottom and
won't budge, even after I drive for an hour. Also, the A/C doesn't work and
this morning I tried to drive it again and the check engine light came on
about 10 miles down the road. Someone suggested the thermostat, any other
suggestions?
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
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| 1989 Subaru GL 1.8l won't stay lit Hachiroku +O+A+m+/ 19:29:30 |
| | Been sitting since April, I have started it a few times over the summer,
but yesterday I went to move it to prep it for winter, and it wouldn't
start. I opened the hood and checked the usual suspects, but all looked
well.
I pumped the gas and it kicked right over. I had to hold the throttle
with one foot, and work the brake with the other to get it moving. After
a couple minutes of holding it at idle, it started to idle on it's own,
albeit a very low stumbling idle.
There was also a smell like something burning, although there was no
smoke from anywhere.
I did the usual check for critters in the airbox, etc. Spiders in the
TBI, perhaps? (If you have a gas grill, you probably have heard the
damage spiders can do...kaBOOM!!!)
I'll put some fresh gas in it today or tomorrow and try again and see if
it smoothes out. It had a complete tune up in January; new plugs, wires,
cap and rotor (I think. I have so many cars I can't remember which ones
have cpas and rotors and which don't...if it has it, they were
changed...), air filter, oil, etc. It was running well when I parked it
and ran at idle without stumbling about 8 weeks ago or so.
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| Re: Ranger shuddering when turning in reverse MasterBlaster 16:35:05 |
| |
"DanKMTB" wrote
I ve got a 98 Ranger, 5-spd manual, 4x4 off-road. When backing up, if the wheel is turned in one direction there is an intense shuddering that feels like it s coming from somewhere in the rear of the truck. Is occurring in 2WD, have not tried in 4.
So try it in 4wd too.
Limited slip rear diff? Try changing the fluid + additive (if it uses it).
ABS? See if a wheel speed sensor is loose/broken/missing.
Check the "spider" gears inside the diff for damage.
still wouldn't be surprised to find the issue is in the front
Check for tierod / balljoint / wheel bearing looseness with the wheel turned
to the side. On the ground and jacked up.
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| | 6 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: 93 Chevy Blazer S10, brakes freeze up Lugnut 16:06:54 |
| | On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:03:39 -0700 (PDT), ska_ter77@hotmail.com wrote:
At seemingly random times I will go to push the brake pedal only to find that it wont budge. Most often the resistance wont last more than a second or two but I have on rare occasion had to use the emergency brake to slow down. Usually air in the line manifests itself as 'squishiness' - is it possible for air to produce the symptoms I'm describing? Perhaps more likely is a faulty master cylinder? Any ideas? Thanks, Jonathan
The problem you have is most likely the brake booster control valve - more
precisely, the reactor disc cracked. A replacement booster is usually the best
cure unless you have expertise in booster rebuild. If the vehicle is high
mileage, a master cylinder at the same time would also be a good idea because
any debris in the MC may become dislodged causing problems after the booster is
replaced and become fully functional.
Lugnut
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| Which spark plug? Bailey B 05:22:33 |
| | Which spark plug should i buy for 1987 Towncar, 5.0 V-8? The original
plug is a Champion copper core. But when you look at the optional plugs
theres a list of 17 more. They range in price from $1.88 to $7.99 each.
(Champion, Autolite, NKG, Delco, Bosh) There are copper,
platinum,V-tip, and some without any gap at all.
Some say to always use the original brand and type of plug which is the
Champion copper at $1.88 each. (There is a platinum version for $2.99
each) Whats the advantage of Platinum over copper?
If I take it to the dealer, would the install the original copper
Champion plug or do they now use newer types of plugs?
Is there any advantage to using the other type of plugs? If not then
why are there so many people spending more money for inferior plugs?
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| | 10 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: Error codes on Honda Accord (2004) Dave Kelsen 05:18:13 |
| | On 8/21/2008 9:31 AM dave.harper@gmail.com spake these words of knowledge:
My "check engine" light in my 2004 Honda Accord (4 cyl) came on a while ago, and I got Autozone to read the error codes. There were 3, and they all seem related: P0141 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0453 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input P2422 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Vent Shut Valve Close Malfunction My guess is one component on the emission side is causing all three codes. Does anyone have an idea of what the actual cause could be? Thanks! Dave
Some years back I got P0141; I replaced the o2 sensor (the rear one) and
it went away, never to return. But I didn't get the other two, so I
don't suppose that would solve your problem. It might be a good place
to start. It cost me 50-something dollars, and I had to buy a wrench
for $5 or $6 to remove the sensor itself.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
A mind is a terrible thing to taste.
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
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| 1998 Pontiac Trans Sport (later called "Montana") ABS lights in dash, how to disable? Dave 05:17:23 |
| | OK, my wife got a sweet deal on a 1998 Pontiac Trans Sport minivan. Yeah,
it's a little older and a little banged up, but runs fantastic. My only
concern was, first time I saw it, the brake and abs lights were lit up on
the dashboard. Ooops. Had it checked by a GM dealer. Nothing wrong with
the brakes, nothing wrong with the abs, and they don't know why the
dashboard lights are on.
Long story short, it's since been checked by two independent mechanics AND
the GM dealer. All say the same thing...your brakes are fine, the abs is
fine, heck if I know why the dashboard light is on. Oh, it passed state
inspection also, and the "brake" and "abs" lights were lit up during
inspection, and are still lit on the dash.
How can I turn the fricking lights off, permanently? I'll probably never
sell the van, just drive it into the ground, so don't have to worry about
resale value. If the fix is "permanent" therefore, it's not a big deal.
Those lights are annoying, and I'm afraid that they might distract me from a
"real" warning light later, so I'd greatly prefer for them to be OFF.
Would prefer not to mess up anything else, JUST turn off the abs and brake
lights on the dashboard. Is this possible? -Dave
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| | 12 answers | Add comment |
Tuesday, 26 August 2008
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| Re: Building a Standard Auto Repair shop Matt 16:34:59 |
| | Kafinkata wrote:
Hi, I plan to set-up an Auto Repair facility with 4 or 5 bays in Africa. I drew some drafts/sketches with dimensions, but I want to check in the community to see if anyone have an actual "auto-shop building plan" that s/he can share. Having an actual building plan will make my discussions with the building-contractor much easier, and convey clearer understanding to all parties involved. The peice of land that I will be using is about 20meters by 16meters. Any advice on how to obtain an actual "auto-shop building plan" will also be appreciated.
Find some successful newly-built shops that you will not be in
competition with. Get plans from whoever built those shops, or pay the
shop owners to let you copy their layouts.
Regards, Kafin |
| | Add comment |
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| taurus water pump mount Bob Urz 06:40:43 |
| | I just flushed out my 97 Taurus block and radiator and am preparing to
put a new water pump on it. Before on earlier cars, i put RTV on both
sides of the gasket, or just used the copper glue or such on one side to
hold the gasket in place then bolt it down,
Whats the best way to do the water pump gasket?
RTV one side, both sides or NONE?
gasket glue on one side?
any method better than the other?
bob
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Monday, 25 August 2008
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| Re: Steam from oil fill hole, while car is hot -- what's up? E Meyer 22:01:46 |
| | On 8/24/08 3:16 PM, in article
ba28ff73-bb39-46d2-8975-d96e602474b9@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com, "bryanska"
<BARRELBACK@hotmail.com> wrote:
Just put my wife's 2002 VW Golf up on stands for an oil change. The car is at HOT operating temp, so I thought I'd grab a beer before pulling the filter. I pulled the plug, and it's draining fine. Just for extra measure, I removed the filler cap. A light smoke or steam is coming out the filler cap. Not a lot, but enough, and its been coming out gently for about 60 seconds at least. Any thoughts?
Sounds like its definitely hot enough... 
Do you see any gunk in there when you look in at the filler cap? Any milky
looking stuff on the dipstick? Any oil slick in the radiator? Smoke out
the tailpipe?
I know the VW Golf 2.0 is notorious for burning oil... We've had to add oil on numerous occasions.
No way to tell if there is a problem without more specifics - how often? How
many miles before it burns a quart, etc.? How many miles on the engine?
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Oil Change Interval for Synthetics Steve 20:52:58 |
| | The Doctor wrote:
On Aug 20, 2:35 pm, klu...@panix.com (Scott Dorsey) wrote: The Doctor <nwben...@erols.com> wrote: Hi all, I'm thinking of changing my '90 Acura legend over to a synthetic oil product (Mobil 1 Amsoil..etc..suggestions?) and was wondering what intervals I can expect between changes. One person I was talking to said they can go to 25k. I don't know if I'd be comfortable with that, though. The car currently has only 88K on it now, but I put about 4k on it a month. Thanks for any input! Why would you change the interval at all? Synthetic oils won't break down as easily, it's true. But the viscosity modifiers are the same as with conventional oils, and they will break down just as quickly. Synthetic oils can't hold any more combustion byproducts in suspension either, so if the limiting factor is the amount of junk in the oil (as it is for most older engines), that's unchanged. In fact, the better solvent properties of synthetic oils may cause them to get more dissolved junk in them, when used on older engines. "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." I just don't understand why, then, do they tout it go for so many more miles between changes than conventional oils. I do agree about the particulates in suspension, though....
I somewhat disagree with Scott. The additive packages are rather
different on synthetics- for example most synthetics don't have ANY
viscosity modifiers to deteriorate. People who have done
long-drain-interval oil analysis on synthetics show that they do hold
their total base number (resistance to acid contamination) and wear
metal values just fine at long intervals, and the viscosity actually
INCREASES with age. But contamination and depletion of other additives
that are already being reduced for emissions reasons (zinc, for example)
are good reasons to not go much beyond a 7000 mile drain interval.
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| | 9 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: Honda civic Imagine starting noises Mike Walsh 15:30:48 |
| |
On most vehicles the fuel pump will run for a few seconds when the key is turned to the run position, before turning the key to the start position. On some vehicles it is normal to hear the pump, on others the pump is much too quiet. If the pump suddenly got much noisier it is not normal.
derek wrote:
I recently bought an 03 plate Civic Imagine. Starting is usually silent when the key is inserted. However lately a series of what sound like petrol pump? or some other mecanical processes now are audible when i put in the key. Any idea what this is? Is it likely to be serious?? or is it normal? cheers Derek Paterson York
--
Mike Walsh
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