high idle

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high idle
Wildcats 16 May 2007 19:26:33
	i have a 2001 saturn sc1 service lights codes show #1 eng misfire and also iac system higher than expecter rpm i change the plug and wire and also cleaned out the throttle body what do i do next the engine as soon as it starts rpm is about 1200
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The Real Tom 23 March 2005 18:30:32 [ permanent link ]
	On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 20:17:59 -0500, "wildcats" <707robert@comcast.net> wrote: i have a 2001 saturn sc1 service lights codes show #1 eng misfire and also>iac system higher than expecter rpm i change the plug and wire and>also cleaned out the throttle body what do i do next the engine as>soon as it starts rpm is about 1200 Hi, might want to give the starting conditions too, outside temp, was the engine warm or cold, etc... etc... later, tom @ www.CarFleaMarket.com
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Wildcats 23 March 2005 19:33:54 [ permanent link ]
	the outside temp was about 60 and no matter if the car is warm or cold it still starts out with high rpm,s and runs high throughout the duration about 4 months ago i had the misfire code i changed all the plugs and wires it fixed the problem and then about a month ago both codes showed up. the car has 75000 miles. i was wondering are they somehow tied together
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Wildcats 24 March 2005 01:39:17 [ permanent link ]
	the rpms are 2100 at idle i replaced pcv valve coolant temp sensor. plus the IAC still no help i clear the codes but still coming back after about 10 min of driving
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Oppie 24 March 2005 02:18:53 [ permanent link ]
	Coolant temperature sensor? If engine thinks it is cold, idle kicks up and mixture is richened up. Bet your plugs are black from the rich condition. "wildcats" <707robert@comcast.net> wrote in message news:936a941147f9f3c51885dfaceb0b0774@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...>i have a 2001 saturn sc1 service lights codes show #1 eng misfire and also> iac system higher than expecter rpm i change the plug and wire and> also cleaned out the throttle body what do i do next the engine as> soon as it starts rpm is about 1200>
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Bob Shuman 24 March 2005 02:44:19 [ permanent link ]
	Not sure of the year or model, but on some there are two different coolant temperature sensors. One goes to the gauge and the other to the computer. The one that you need to check is the latter. You indicate you changed the CTS, but was it the correct one? Sorry if this does not apply to your year or model, but from your description it does sound like the CTS. Bob "wildcats" <707robert@comcast.net> wrote in message news:09be97310628d3c1572efbe8ea85a8fd@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...> the rpms are 2100 at idle i replaced pcv valve coolant temp sensor. plus> the IAC still no help i clear the codes but still coming back after about> 10 min of driving>
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Darkshadow94 15 October 2005 01:05:49 [ permanent link ]
	1994 mustang.. i replaced the throttle position switch, adjusted the throttle screw. still idles between 1500 to 2000 rpms can anyone tell me how to fix this problem???
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Backyard Mechanic 15 October 2005 02:36:32 [ permanent link ]
	"darkshadow94" <amistyxx@hotmail.com> wrote in news:b2cc44e8979c20ef5475b765ad89bf4d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com: 1994 mustang.. i replaced the throttle position switch, adjusted the> throttle screw. still idles between 1500 to 2000 rpms can anyone tell me> how to fix this problem???> dont get in a hurry...T.A.B. has to post your request on newsgroup servers, -where the people who know something are- then get it back for you to see it. FYI, no car-nuts sit around watching T.A.B, itself.. we go to the source. OR we go to google 'groups' i just love bein' bitchy! ;)
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Dwight 15 October 2005 04:40:02 [ permanent link ]
	"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message news:Xns96EFC87BA987Dpettyfogery@207.115.63.158...> "darkshadow94" <amistyxx@hotmail.com> wrote in> news:b2cc44e8979c20ef5475b765ad89bf4d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:> 1994 mustang.. i replaced the throttle position switch, adjusted the>> throttle screw. still idles between 1500 to 2000 rpms can anyone tell me>> how to fix this problem???>> dont get in a hurry...T.A.B. has to post your request on newsgroup > servers,> -where the people who know something are- then get it back for you to see> it.> FYI, no car-nuts sit around watching T.A.B, itself.. we go to the source.> OR we go to google 'groups'> i just love bein' bitchy! ;) And you're so good at it! dwight
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Sumcirce 7 November 2005 19:55:15 [ permanent link ]
	Hi, I've got an '88 945 and it has been idling right around 2100 rpm. If I switch it into second gear and give it a little gas and idle again, it falls to 1.5 then starts climbing back up to 2 after a little bit. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Flint9 15 February 2006 06:01:02 [ permanent link ]
	i have a 2000 sL1 which idles at high rpms any help please
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Blah Blah 16 February 2006 14:03:14 [ permanent link ]
	In article <37c6d36482287ee5ebd273cdc9fab66c@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>, rdns@charter.net says...> i have a 2000 sL1 which idles at high rpms any help please> Vacuum leak or ECT sensor are common reasons.
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Lookydeals 9 March 2006 05:48:46 [ permanent link ]
	CHECK FOR PVC HOSE FOR HOLE, AND SENSOR ECT
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Blah Blah 9 March 2006 06:10:07 [ permanent link ]
	In article <f1831f92ee22c200316024c45aecfedc@localhost.talkaboutautos.com>, davsgal1029@yahoo.com says...> CHECK FOR PVC HOSE FOR HOLE, AND SENSOR ECT> Cap lock off please.
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Shogun64 29 June 2006 00:38:29 [ permanent link ]
	lugnut, i think your on to something. ive been noticing that when i turn on my heater which is vacum controlled they keep opening and closing. could that be related? lugnut wrote:> On 17 Jun 2006 17:47:06 -0700, "shogun64"> <shogun64@sbcglobal.net> wrote:> i have a 88 cougar with a 302 in it my problem ia s fast idle. i> >changed the iac but still fast idle. any ideas so i wont keep replacing> >parts i dont need to? when started cold it revs up then down till it> >finds right rpm. but when hot, i keep a fast idle. i want to fix it> >before i lose a ujoint as it jumps in gear. please help.> BYM's procedure doesn't find it, you may have a leak between> the upper and lower intake. Problem was mostly in trucks> but , not unheard of in cars.> Lugnut
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Lugnut 29 June 2006 07:17:41 [ permanent link ]
	On 28 Jun 2006 13:38:29 -0700, "shogun64" <shogun64@sbcglobal.net> wrote: lugnut, i think your on to something. ive been noticing that when i>turn on my heater which is vacum controlled they keep opening and>closing. could that be related? Not likely that the intake problem would/could cause that. You either have a bad vacuum check valve or a vacuum leak in the hvac. This is beyond the manifold. If you have a large leak in the hvac control, it could result in high idle. lugnut wrote:>> On 17 Jun 2006 17:47:06 -0700, "shogun64">> <shogun64@sbcglobal.net> wrote:>> i have a 88 cougar with a 302 in it my problem ia s fast idle. i>> >changed the iac but still fast idle. any ideas so i wont keep replacing>> >parts i dont need to? when started cold it revs up then down till it>> >finds right rpm. but when hot, i keep a fast idle. i want to fix it>> >before i lose a ujoint as it jumps in gear. please help.>> BYM's procedure doesn't find it, you may have a leak between>> the upper and lower intake. Problem was mostly in trucks>> but , not unheard of in cars.>> Lugnut
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Mike chambers 14 May 2007 06:01:17 [ permanent link ]
	It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it on. It is fine with out it. Later Mike
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Bllsht 14 May 2007 07:54:30 [ permanent link ]
	If the choke is open and it's still idling that high, it sounds like the fast idle cam is stuck. Look over by the idle speed adjustment screws on the left side. I think you'll find the fast idle screw sitting on the top step of the fast idle cam. On 13 May 2007 08:57:13 -0700, 88yj <scrrules11@yahoo.com> wrote: i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
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L.W. Hughes III 14 May 2007 08:16:12 [ permanent link ]
	Buy a rebuild kit for the carburetor, then disconnect the fast idle step motor, via the "Nutter bypass": http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm#diagram http://www.billhughes.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm God Bless America, Bill O\|\|\|\|\|\|\|O mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ "88yj" <scrrules11@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1179071833.164687.253540@h2g2000hsg.googlegroups.com... i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Mike Romain 15 May 2007 18:18:52 [ permanent link ]
	The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio and... anyway. There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. This does go bad. It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) 88yj wrote: i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
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Mike Romain 15 May 2007 22:29:09 [ permanent link ]
	88yj wrote: On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio and... anyway. There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. This does go bad. It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) 88yj wrote: i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It should be affected by the engine warming up too. Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working near any? Mike
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Mike Romain 16 May 2007 17:15:04 [ permanent link ]
	88yj wrote: On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: 88yj wrote: On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio and... anyway. There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. This does go bad. It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) 88yj wrote: i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It should be affected by the engine warming up too. Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working near any? Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter without starting it to verify the choke is closed. I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. Mike
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Mike Romain 16 May 2007 19:26:33 [ permanent link ]
	88yj wrote: On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: 88yj wrote: On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: 88yj wrote: On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio and... anyway. There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. This does go bad. It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) 88yj wrote: i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It should be affected by the engine warming up too. Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working near any? Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter without starting it to verify the choke is closed. I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit gas out very fast. That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up adjustment is needed. It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started. The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to come down to 1750 rpm once it starts. The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be around 1100 to 1200 rpm. I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up' for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory' setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold. If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258. Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run for more than a couple minutes. You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours sounds like it is almost working perfectly. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
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Mike Romain 17 May 2007 00:01:04 [ permanent link ]
	<snip> when i started the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit gas out very fast. That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up adjustment is needed. It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started. The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to come down to 1750 rpm once it starts. The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be around 1100 to 1200 rpm. I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up' for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory' setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold. If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258. Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run for more than a couple minutes. You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours sounds like it is almost working perfectly. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90% sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying a gauge i would love to hear it There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS Ford emissions computer. The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will not affect gas mileage a lot. You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the mix is right. You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps. You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside the carb..... Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there? Is it required where you live? 'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves 'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass papers we show them but hey... They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time in the analog days.... It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25% seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500 and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light. Mike
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Пожалуйста, относитесь к собеседникам уважительно, не используйте нецензурные слова, не злоупотребляйте заглавными буквами, не публикуйте рекламу и объявления о купле/продаже, а также материалы нарушающие сетевой этикет или УК РФ.

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high idle

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