Wednesday, 5 July 2006
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| Saab 9-3 -99 and 2-DIN player HeikkiM 01:48:38 |
| | Is there any product that support Saab stearing buttons and is 2-DIN
supported with LCD (Can be used for DVD or GPS)?
I mean players like Panasonic CQ-VD6503Uspacer but I don't know if it
doesn't support stearing buttons.
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| Performance Cars Wanted! Guest 01:02:06 |
| | On Saturday 29th July, there will be a performance stand at the SAAB
Owners Club National.
Those that attended the Ruby National will remember the performance
stand. We would like to reintroduce this as a regular feature and have
gained the help of the original organisers.
I am trying to arrange a selection of performance modified cars to be
displayed on the stand for the day and want to give the opportunity for
people to display their car.
We are looking for a good mix of cars to display but if you have
something more common like a 9000, please still get in touch.
We have organised a Mobile Rolling Road (dyno) to be available for the
day so visitors can pay a small sum to see how much power their car is
putting out.
If you are interested in showing your car for the day, please email me
with details of your car and a picture if possible.
Any questions, please post them.
Thanks,
Toby
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| |  3 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Help me create a Saab paint guide Paul Halliday 00:19:19 |
| | in article nnb_f.3887$Im6.1432@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, Jeremy
Brown at jerem43@att.net wrote on 09/04/2006 18:20:
Hey all,> I am creating a Saab paint guide, and I have most of the Saab color code,> paint chips and names for the last 15 or so years. I need some information> that maybe someone out there can help me with.> I need the color chips for the following colors:> 204 Edwardian Grey> 216 Beryl Green> 219 Talladega Red> I need the paint codes and color chips for the following colors:> Colorado Red> Malachite green> If any one has the original sales brochures with the color charts in them,> could they scan and e-mail them to me? Or if you have the RGB hex code that> will display the colors, that woul be even better.
... Just found this ...
<http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1992-saab-pg01.jpg>
Paul
1989 900 Turbo S
http://saab.go.dyndns.org/
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Tuesday, 4 July 2006
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| Re: Adjust idling speed 1999 93 2.0i ??? DervMan 23:37:27 |
| | "Fred W" <Malt_Hound@*spam-me-not*yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:iNKdndvws6oVVQbZnZ2dnUVZ_oKdnZ2d@adelphia.com...> timmy wrote:>> Hi,>> My saab is idling at 1100 revs. It's a manual 2.0 1999 93.>> How can I reduce this idling speed.>>
What do I need to adjust and where can I find it.>> thanks in advance>> Timmy>> It's buried in the electronic code inside the ECU. You can't change it.
Yes it is, but you can always change it. It's probably something else
causing the change in idle speed, which should be 900 rpm.
--
The DervMan
www.dervman.com
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Bolt pattern? Hippo 21:17:49 |
| | Jeremy wrote:
5x110 Jeremy Norman Boyce wrote:>> I cannot find a bolt pattern and offset for my car. I thought that I knew >> it but I was wrong. Please help.>>
2006 9-3 Aero Convertible with 17' wheels.>> Thanks very much in advance.>>
Generic 9-3 offset is listed as 35 - 40; don't know any closer for 2006
though. Cheers
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| Alternator replacement Ep 17:31:33 |
| | Well, my alternator passed to the great beyond as I was exiting a
freeway. Fun stuff. It had foul electrical smelling smoke coming out of
it.
Now, I have changed out a few alternators in my time, but never on a
Saab. Looks to me like the upper motor mount needs to be removed. Which
is fine, because the upper mount appears to need replacing anyway. This
may possibly be a bigger job than I want to take on, but I gotta try.
I note that EEurpoarts has a $79 R&R tool for the motor mount. Yikes.
$79 for a tool to do something that I will probably never need to do
again concerns me. Is this tool a requirement? How is the engine
supported when the upper mount is removed? Should I just suck it up and
send her off to a shop? I HATE to do that, because I have found most
Saab repairs to be remarkably easy so far, and there is that whole "Zen
and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" thing, too.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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| 6/'94 Saab 900 2.3 L m/t non-Turbo Hardtop Gregbarker 17:13:31 |
| | Help! Please?
Having no fun replacing clutch (cable release, not hydraulic) assy.
Does K-member have to come down?
How are halfshafts removed from transaxle?
Having no fun unmounting passenger side pillow-block assy. Remove
alternator?
Anyone know where to get a manual? Seems 93 and later are not listed.
Advice most appreciated,
Thanks, Greg
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Monday, 3 July 2006
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| Re: Racks: SAAB vs Thule Mdb 00:11:56 |
| | I've got the Saab bars and various sport-specific racks to go on the bars. I
have a 9000 Aero and my system works great. Be careful not to lose the
plastic shields that come with the bars. The feet on the bars scratch the
hell out of your roof paint if you don't use those plastic protectors.
"Josh Kalish" <_no_spam_josh_k@nyc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:b00mg.14847$7e.1453@news-wrt-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com...> (Last question for now)>
I just bought a 9-3 Aero Wagon (combi) with no rails. I will need on some > weekends to move around bikes, skis, and possibly a windsurf board. Should > I go with all Saab equipment? Or Thule? Or get the bars from Saab and > then Thule for the actual equipment specific mounts?> Thx,> J
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Sunday, 2 July 2006
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| [Saab_c900] 8V turbo engine problem - might be head gasket Craig's Saab C900 Site 16:14:48 |
| |
Hi,
two things are evident with the engine in the turbo car. it's really hard
to start and the first time it's cranked and fires it tends to die shortly
after letting the key go almost like it's fuel-starved but I know the fuel
pump is ok and I put a new fuel filter in some weeks back. A second crank
usually gets it going if I push the throttle a bit at the same time.
Second thing is when the engine is running. It sounds like it's running on
3 cylinders only, and blows white smoke for around 10 to 15 minutes after
starting. There isn't any evidence that I've seen so far of water in the
oil, but from my limited understanding it's pointing to the head gasket
being suspect. I know all the spark leads are good and the distributor cap
is ok. I changed the spark plugs for a new set of BP7ES's a few months
ago.
Another issue with the engine is that until it warms up and even sometimes
after it's warm, there is a metallic tapping sound in time with the engine
rotations that I haven't quite tracked down. First thought was something
wrong with the valves. I haven't work on 8V heads to that degree yet but
if I decide to take off the head to check out the gasket (I do have a set
of new head bolts), getting the head reconditioned might be worthwhile, or
just getting a new or recon'd one.
Can a new or recon'd head be put on the engine as a drop-in replacement
for the one on it now with just a head gasket and a timing check (and
maybe a new timing chain) installed as well? I guess the timing chain
would be a problem unless it's a version with master link.
Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.
_______________________________________________
saab_c900 mailing list
saab_c900@lios.apana.org.au
http://lios.apana.org.au/mailman/listinfo/saab_c900
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Changing tire size on a 9.5 Hippo 15:33:39 |
| | Michael Hudson wrote:
Greetings. I've a '02 9.5, which calls for tires sized 215/55-16. As>it happens, I got this car used a few months back and I need to put new>tires on it. There are Michelins on the rear in the size called for,>and Cooper something-or-others on the front, sized 205/55-16. My>question is this: Can I safely put tires sized 205/60-16 on this car?>I'm considering this move, very frankly, because the tires are brand>new and free. A hard-to-beat combo. Of course, I don't want to do>anything that would negatively affect the safety/handling/stability/ride and so forth of >the car.
Opinions gratefully received, and thanks. M
First off, the Coopers are 1.7% smaller circumference than the Michelins.
That will probably stuff up your front/rear balance at least marginally,
so putting on a set of FOUR somethings all the same size is a good idea.
The 205/60-16s are only 1.5% bigger in circ than the 215s specified so you
probably shouldn't notice any differences in ride/handling/speedo error. So
it's all good so far.
Just make sure that what you're getting is worth putting on the car in the
first place, regardless of price! Cheers
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| 9000 CV joint boot kit Charles C. 14:32:08 |
| | Hi,
9000 2.0L LPT, ABS, year 1997.
I am looking at boots for outer cv joints. I do not have the tool that
is needed to lock the clips that come with the kits.
If anyone can tell me please, if there is clearance between boot and
surrounding components for a jubilee clip like here:
http://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/ They used to fit nicely in my C900s.
If not, is the alternative cable ties?
Thanks in advance
Charles
--
Please remove _removeme_ to reply.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Saturday, 1 July 2006
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| 9000 Drivetrain noise . . . help! Charles Molhoek 01:51:05 |
| | Ok, please tell me someone knows what is going on here!
I have a '97 9000 Aero with 200k miles. Recently (about 300 miles ago)
developed a weird metallic knock in the left front drive train (it
actually sounds like the 'click' from a torque wrench, just 20 times
louder). It occurs when I accelerate and also when I let off the
accelerator. The more gently I accelerate, or decelerate, the softer
the noise. If I disengage the clutch before decel, I don't hear it.
The noise sounds like a light clunk in the cabin with the windows up,
but with the left window down, it's up to full volume. You can not
hear much from the right window, so it's definitely on the left side.
The weird, and disturbing, point is that it came on very suddenly, I
did not notice it building at all.
Listed (far) below are the steps I have taken to isolate the problem
(so you can skip over as much of my OCD babble as possible). Being the
cynic I am, I have now assumed that the problem has maximum PITA
potential. There seems to be an abnormal amount of play (in terms of
how many degrees you can rotate the wheel) in the transmission when
rotating the left wheel back and forth (tranny in gear, right wheel on
the ground). In addition, it sounds a little loud the differential
housing when I rotate the wheel. It's much less noticeable if the
tranny is in neutral and you can freely spin the left wheel, but it is
still there. My thought is there is some slop in the gearing in the
final end of the trans, and the application of power, and also the
compression braking of the engine during decel, are making two gears
slap together over some excessive play, but I have no idea where!
If anybody has any experience with this problem, or even any advice on
what to do next (other than going to a mechanic, transmission shop, or
the local theivin' Saab dealer), I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Charlie
What I have determined thus far:
The caliper is firmly in place and the pads show no problems (~60%
thickness). The rotor retaining screw and wheel locating stud are snug
and there is no play in the rotor/spindle mounting.
The ball joint is tight and shows no signs of problems. The steering
rack and links are tight and visibly fine.
The inboard universal joint on the left side appears to be OK. The
rollers and their needles seem to be fine and the drive cup shows no
abnormal wear spots.
The outer CV new, but I checked it anyway. There appears to be no
slack and it moves smoothly. It is a OEM replacement (Lobro, not
ScanTech) that has about 2 years and 30k miles on it, so it should be
fine.
The wheel bearing was shot, but it was replaced before this came up,
so that should not be an issue. Just to be paranoid (a frequent
problem of mine, you may notice), I swapped out the new bearing for an
old one I had. The knock was still there, it was just harder to hear
over the noise of a bad bearing. After returning the new bearing to
it's proper place (with a new axle nut), the noise remained the same.
The struts are new and their bearing pads seem fine. All mounting
bolts are snug.
Upper motor mounts, lower tranny mount and front lower hydraulic motor
mounts are all new and snug, no issues there. The rear hydraulic mount
appears to be fine as well.
Exhaust does not seem to be knocking on anything.
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 29 June 2006
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| Re: Saab 1992 9000 Griffin Edition for Sale Rockingoose 23:04:17 |
| | To OSCARJOHN: interested in this vehicle, please contact
Jerry Gwisdala
989-859-8064
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| | Add comment |
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| Re: 1985 sputters. broken level sending unit??? Rod H 16:22:48 |
| | I agree with you. and I will try some water remover. when the car sputters
I normally get gas in it fairly quick.
thanks
rod
"Rob Muller" <rob.muller@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:8rd2a2d86uori4v1m1ot5653oh4dsgh459@4ax.com...> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 21:15:45 -0500, "Rod H" <rodhogg@cox.net> wrote:>
thanks for the input. who would of thought that a 20+ year old car just>>might have water in the tank. I guess not me.> Note that I am not trying to be funny.> It is a valid explanation why the engine sputters when there is only a> certain amount of fuel left in the tank. When water in the tank is> causing the problem I would expect the stuttering getting worse when> the amount of fuel is getting less. Is this happening?> You can try adding some water remover to see if it cures the problem.> Rob
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Wednesday, 28 June 2006
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| Newbie Brian Collins 07:30:40 |
| | Hi All! I've been lurking here now for a few weeks. I bought up a 1985
900 Turbo for the wife accidentally. we needed another vehicle, friend
of mine had this one for sale cheap. I am now totally fascinated by
these cars! And this, coming from a Ford truck guy (2002 F-350, 1978
Bronco, 1968 Bronco)
So, now I want to get a Saab of my very own. I have many questions
pertaining to the 900 (US models I imagine):
- What years are considered "classic 900"?
- What advantages if any exist in the other years outside the "classic"
range
- any big bad problems noted with the 1997 model? (I have a lead on one
for sale)
- Auto transmission good/bad reliability?
- Any place I can get answers to things like this without pestering
folks here?
Thanks in advance....
~bc
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| | 17 answers | Add comment |
Saturday, 10 June 2006
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| Re: Water pump Bob 03:29:33 |
| | On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 01:38:23 GMT, "sdf" <sdf@yahoo.com> wrote:
Just had a service on a 2001 9-3 (75,000 kilometers). Report said the water >pump was "weeping." They said it should be fixed relatively soon. Is this a >common problem, and how soon do you reckon it should be done? How big a job >is it? >
Depends where it is weeping. There is a possibility of weep between
the
two halves of the pump or where the pump enters the block. Cost of the
pump is about $100 USd, IIRC. The gasket/seal into the block could be
just a couple dollars if that is all it is.
To do it you drain the cooling system (just pull the hose), remove the
serp belt, pull the PS pump out of the way, then remove the water pump
hoses and the pump itself. Probably a 4 hour job the first time you
do it.
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Wednesday, 31 May 2006
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oil light on but oil level is full  spring 19:49:59 |
| | My 1996 900se turbo Saab oil light came on the other day within 2 miles of my home. I checked the oil level and it is full. I plan on taking it in to get checked, but I am concerned about driving it with the oil light displayed. Since the level is full, could this be a oil pump or sending unit? Could serious damage result by driving it the 10 miles to the shop I trade at? |
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Thursday, 18 May 2006
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| Uk Valley Saab Sally Blamire 20:20:51 |
| | I have my eye on an 2004 Saab but I want to avoid the nomal pitfuls associated with buying a used car.
Can anyone provide information on what to look for ? You know the normal kind of thing.
The car is being sold by Valley Saab - www.valleysaab.co.uk - can anyone recommend their sales/service?
Thanks in advance. |
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| '92 900s Oil Leak under water pump / ABS sensor Guest 18:41:39 |
| | I've got a 2l 16v non-turbo. I just had the water pump changed. Now oil
is pouring out. I can't see exactly where from, but it is pooling in a
spot just under the water pump. My mechanic says it is a seal, and he
needs to pull the engine to fix it he wants $1300. I live in Germany,
and don't speak the language terribly well. I am starting to feel like
my mechanic is taking advantage of that. If it were a seal, would the
oil be coming from such a high spot? What is a likely failure that
would cause oil to leak in this spot?
2. The ABS warning light has been coming on intermittently for the last
year. Until now, it still functioned. It doesn't anymore. I found a
place where it looked like the wire was pinched on the rear left. I
fussed with the wire and the problem went away for about 6 months. The
mechanic says that is indeed the bad sensor, and removed it, but has
not yet replaced it. The wire does not appear to be damaged, and he
said it is highly unlikely that it is the wire. I am going to check it
out, as I once replaced an alternator only to find it was the connector
that was bad. If it is indeed the sensor, is there a source of non OEM
sensors? My guy wants $180 for the part.
The question now is, do I keep this car? I LOVE my Saab. It is the
perfect car for my needs. I have money, but I just don't see any newer
cars out there that appeal to me. I live in an apartment with no
garage, so I am pretty limited in what repairs I can do myself.
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Robobass
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| C900 1987 - Waterpump Al 18:29:17 |
| | It's making a wheezing noise at tickover, cant hear it at higher revs.
I'm sure it's the water pump.
A genuine Saab part is going to cost ВЈ80+, whereas a pattern part from
Elkparts or partsforsaabs is around ВЈ25.
You can see my dilema, the car is 19 years old with 178k miles on the
clock, and I'd be surprised if she lasted another three years.
Anyone got experience of the cheaper version?
I know purists would go for the original, but I can't really see an
extra ВЈ60 is going to give me much advantage.
Al
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| | 7 answers | Add comment |
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| Lost key/remote Atom 10:41:35 |
| | Well, my mom lost one of her key/remotes for her 1999 9-5, the dealer
wants $360 to replace the key, seems a little high, do I have any
other options or places to get the key?
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
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| | 5 answers | Add comment |
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| Intermittent flat tyre Pmg 09:51:02 |
| | I have a 1995 9000 Aero. So this means alloy wheels. One tyre has
suddenly gone completely flat twice lately but each time re-inflating it
has lasted for several weeks. So it stays fully inflated for about three
weeks then suddenly goes down fast.Any ideas why this might happen?
Pete
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| | 5 answers | Add comment |
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| Door Skin Removal - 1996 9000 CS DFRANet 00:45:25 |
| | Hello Group,
Has anyone seen the correct procedure on a website for removing the rear
door skins on a 1996 SAAB 9000 CS ?
Thank-you,
Kirk R.
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| | 16 answers | Add comment |
Wednesday, 17 May 2006
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| Still find those late-1980's 900 Turbos and SPGs very attractive,
in spite of having lots of reason Be 17:59:18 |
| | Am I nuts?
I owned a Red 1988 Turbo 900 for a little less than a year back when it was
new. I loved that car, thought it was the coolest thing on the planet. But
it was more than I could sensibly afford at the time and I was lucky to sell
it for virtually what I paid (it had been some regional directors car and
had $6000 knocked off the sticker).
My sister caught the SAAB bug and had a 9000 that was nothing but trouble,
always in the shop. And I somehow convinced my parents to buy a used 900S
for their second car that was also nothing but trouble. One day my mother
was putting gas in it, and she (all 5 feet of her) opened the door "too
hard" -- it pivoted too far on the hinge and would no longer close. From
that point on, the only way to close the door if this happened again (and it
did many times) was to have a thick, 2 foot long flat-head screwdriver handy
to use as a fulcrum to push some pivot lock pin out of the way so the door
could close.
I suppose these vintage SAABs and their problems are somewhat reflected in
the modest sale prices for even super-nice examples. I still find myself
attracted to these cars, as a person who likes contemporary and mid-century
modern design, they satisfy that sort of artistic sense; I am probably
squarely within a particularly defined demographic when I also admit to a
fondness for the Citroen DS and the BMW 2000CS models.
I really would like one of those Edwardian Grey SPGs, but my common sense
tells me that I'll be buying into endless problems, difficult-to-get parts,
and probably mandated Premium Gasoline (when Regular is ridiculous right
now). Should I worry less, now that there are solid networks of SAAB
enthusiasts out there via the internet?
Someone please slap some sense into me!
Be
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