Saturday, 15 July 2006
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| 9-3 Turbo tim rickettsNOSPAM 16:41:05 |
| | I have friend whose turbo is blown (diagnosed by main dealer - Ј800).
Question is, how easy is it to replace? I have 25 years of mechanical
experience, but local knowledge from a group like this is invaluable. I have
no experience of this model, don't even know if the turbo's on the back or
front of the engine!
Most vital question: can it be done without a pit or a lift? All blow by
blow accounts most welcome.
Thanks,
Tim.
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| |  1 answer | Add comment |
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| Possessed Windows Shane Almeida 04:32:18 |
| | I parked my car on Thursday night and left it sitting in a parking lot.
As I approached it four hours later, I noticed that both passenger-side
windows were down about three inches. My first thought was that I forgot
to roll them up, even though I was pretty sure they were down (it was
raining pretty hard during the drive and I knew I wasn't that forgetful).
Then I noticed that the sunroof was also open a couple inches. As I came
around the driver side, both of those windows were down about three inches
too.
I know for certain that I did not leave the windows and sunroof open.
Somehow, they opened while it was parked.
As I started to drive, the windows fogged up a bit and I could see
a distinct horizontal line on the glass where the window made contact with
the weather strip while it was down. I could also see about five other
marks on each of the windows. I never keep the windows partially down:
they are either all the way up or all the way down. I'm pretty sure these
were new marks.
So not only did the windows roll down just a few inches, but they were
also open almost all the way at some point and at a few other levels in
between.
Has anyone else seen something like this? This is a 2004 9-3 Aero. I've
never seen it before (but maybe the windows always rolled all the up
before I came back to the car). On Friday morning, the windows were all
the way up with no signs of being down (they were covered in
condensation). There was a recall for the sunroof anti-pinch protection
that messed with my windows for a bit (the auto-up and comfort opening
wouldn't work anymore), but that was fixed by the dealer a while ago.
If it weren't raining when I parked the car, I probably could have
convinced myself that I just left them open by mistake. There's just no
way I'd leave everything open in a downpour. It's bizarre.
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| link to site about headlight history, tech info, etc.? Craig's Saab C900 Site 02:56:43 |
| |
Hi I think it was in this group that someone recently posted a link to a
website talking about headlight technologies, history, etc. not specific
to Saab's but really informative covering lots of technical detail, etc.
Does anyone recall what the link was or recall which newgroup thread it
was posted in?
Thanks,
Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.
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Friday, 14 July 2006
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| How do I replace my rear rotors & pads for my 2001 9-5? Sunny Kalsi 17:11:27 |
| | Hello all:
I am a rookie in this sort of thing and was wondering what I need to do
to replace my 2001 9-5 (not Aero)'s Rear rotors and brake pads. I'd
like to replace them myself to get "acquainted" with DIY sort of thing.
I know what parts to get, just not how to install them or nor what
tools I need to perform this task.
Any guidance anyone has will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Sunny
Washington, DC
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Grease for transmission joints Charles C. 09:35:50 |
| | Hi,
I will be removing the drive shafts of my 9k (1997) to replace the CV
joint boots/gaiters (not split yet).
From memory Castrol MS3 was the best alternative grease for the constant
velocity joint. Is it the same grease for the inner joint (tripod to
inner shaft joint)?
On a similar note, how much play should there be between tripod and
inboard shaft (CV flange)? Any none at all? With the car jacked up I
can rotate the wheel by 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch and get a nice click sound
as the tripod moves from side to side inside the flange.
TIA for any advice.
Charles
--
Please remove _removeme_ to reply.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 13 July 2006
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| UK SOC National anyone going? Al 21:07:02 |
| | Simple question I guess! Planning to turn up on Saturday as a day
visitor. Not really a camping fan, although I did three nights at Le
Mans for the first time this year.
Enjoyed last year, got to meet Paul and Orca, and see loads of really
great C900's, and some really beautifully kept 96's.
Unfortunately, my beloved "work in progress" C900 Aero hasn't really
progressed much since last years event but I'm hoping to pick up a few
spares if I can. Namely FPR and some bigger injectors.
Anyway hope to put a few names to faces for the UK folks on this group.
Cheers
Al
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| | 6 answers | Add comment |
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| Shift Linkage Seal (0/1) Guest 05:02:13 |
| |
Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace the shift seal?
The part isn't too expensive. Its about $30 or so from the local Saab
dealer. But they want 2 - 2.5 hours labor which is about $300 in NJ.
I figure if they can do it in less than 2 hours I should be able to do
it.
I hope I am calling this by the correct name. Take a look at the poor
quality pictures attached.
Thanks in advance.
John
97 Saab 900S - 220K
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| | 4 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Shift Linkage Seal (0/1) (0/1) Guest 04:00:18 |
| | On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 19:58:37 -0400, ghost@themachine.net wrote:
Pictures didn't go the first time.
Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace the shift seal? > The part isn't too expensive. Its about $30 or so from the local Saab>dealer. But they want 2 - 2.5 hours labor which is about $300 in NJ.>I figure if they can do it in less than 2 hours I should be able to do>it. > I hope I am calling this by the correct name. Take a look at the poor>quality pictures attached. > Thanks in advance.>John>97 Saab 900S - 220K>
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Wednesday, 12 July 2006
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| good saab mecahnic in cincinnati- west chester OHIO area? Uleetsa Moscowa 19:56:10 |
| | Any suggestions- I need to get the transmission (automatic) of a 1994 Saab
9000 aero (140K) fixed.
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| | Add comment |
Tuesday, 11 July 2006
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| Radiator Fan - help/question Timmy 07:33:08 |
| | Hi,
I have a saab 1999 93 2.0 injection non turbo, non air
conditioned, which recently burst the main coolant pipe which was
weathered. I've replaced this and have since been worried that the
radiator fan may not coming on when it should.
When should the radiator fan come on. Normal operating temperature is
halfway up the temperture gauge. So I guess it should not come on as
long as it stays around this. How far up does the temperture needle
need to go before the fan should kick in?
I've checked the fuses and relays and all seem fine. I've cleaned and
dried the connector going to the radiator fan. After a drive i noticed
the fan was not on so i opened the bonnet and moved the wires about a
little. I left it for a few seconds and the fan then came on, for
about 1 minute, but i wasn't sure if it just kicked in or if it was a
loose connection. This is one of the few times i have ever seen the
fan on. So the fan itself does function.
Does it sound like a problem?
I'm quite concerned in case the engine overheats and screws up the head
gasket.
I'm trying to rule things out - There is some sort of sensor mounted on
the front of the car just below the grill and in front of the radiator?
It's made by siemens and about the size of a 50 cent (euro) coin, What
is this? Is it related to the fan functionig?
Hope somebody can help - Thanks for the help in advance.
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
Monday, 10 July 2006
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| 1992 900s auto trans Papagene4jack 14:43:37 |
| | Problem when I go from park to drive. It bangs into gear also notice a
little slippage with hard acceration. Otherwise seems ok. any suggestions
on this problem would be appreciated. Thanks papa
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Sunday, 9 July 2006
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| Engine Tap/clicking at 2.5 rpm Will Frazier 03:38:24 |
| | Hey all,
I have a 1988 saab 9000, manual trans, non turbo. I recently had my
knock sensor replaced, after driving on a bad one for many months (this
was causing my engine to run very badly after around 10 minutes of
driving). the day after getting my knock sensor replaced (as well as my
idle belt pulley, and some bad belts), i began to hear a very
click/tapping noise whenever the engine is at 2.5 rpm. The engine runs
great, and is unaffected performance wize by the sound. While
accelerating, the engine will click and tap once once hitting 2.5 rpm,
but stop once past. when the gas pedal is released, it will click as it
passes 2.5 rpm on the way down. during highway driving, if a speed is
held at 2.5 rpm, the engine will click and tap constantly.
I have noticed that after prolonged high speed driving, the engine
tap/click seems to all but disappear, but then returns the next day.
This also may be my imagination, but the click seems to be less on
rainy days.
i've been told that engine click can come insufficient oil on lifters,
dirty fuel injectors, engine knock, and bad air hoses (i don't know
much about that). most mechanics who have taken a listen to the noise
say its not lifters. I used fuel injector cleaner on this past tank of
gas, and while my engine seems to accelerate a bit smoother, the
clicking noise still lives. the mechanic who replaced my knock sensor
doesn;t think it is engine knock, but can't be positive.
If anyone has any ideas as to what this could possibly be, your help
would be greatly appreciated.
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Saturday, 8 July 2006
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| ethanol conversion query John B 21:14:58 |
| | Hi,
I've been reading up lately on the technical aspects of converting gasoline
vehicles (e.g. a Saab c900 turbo) to run on ethanol or ethanol/gasoline blends.
I'd appreciate any input on the ideas, and of course any experience anyone
might have doing such a project.
I've been considering the following facts: 1. gasoline is now rather expensive
(and is likely to stay that way); 2. ethanol is likely to become increasingly
available; and 3. c900 turbos are relatively inexpensive these days. Also, I
understand that turbo engines are particularly suited to running on ethanol
because they can take full advantage of high octane fuels.
It looks like there are two primary obstacles to running a gasoline engine on
ethanol: compatibility of the fuel delivery system with ethanol, and the need
to inject more fuel per mass of air.
1. Fuel storage/delivery
a. Compatibility of fuel tank and fuel lines with ethanol.
I'm not really sure what the c900's fuel tank is made of. Is it stainless
steel? Also, not sure about fuel line compatibility. Does anyone have any idea?
b. Fuel pump
The fuel pump may contain internal seals or other parts that dissolve in
ethanol. Probably not an impossible obstacle though.
c. Fuel injector O-rings
... must verify that injector o-rings are not ethanol-soluble. Probably
not a big obstacle to overcome.
2. Air/fuel mixture
My understanding is that the c900 can tolerate 10% or maybe even 20%
ethanol/gasoline mixtures, as the ECU can detect and compensate for lean/rich
mixtures via the oxygen sensor. But running on > 20% ethanol probably screws up
the air/fuel mixture by a greater degree than the ECU can compensate for.
The solution to this problem must be to inject more fuel. One way to do that is
to enlarge the injector ports, but that introduces assorted other problems
(i.e. spray pattern and mixture-too-rich when running on gasoline). So another
solution is to change the injection pulse length. There seems to be an
aftermarket product designed to do just this (see xcelplus.com - not
affiliated, etc). It apparently intercepts the signal from the ECU to the
injectors and lengthens the pulse, and you can still switch it off to run on
gasoline. They claim to be compatible with Bosch fuel injection.
The same people also sell some sort of engine treatment, which they claim coats
certain engine parts to protect them from ethanol/water induced corrosion.
That's probably the scariest part of this whole thing as far as I'm concerned.
Oh, and they also warn that the ethanol will clean out lots of gunk from the
fuel tank, necessitating a couple of fuel filter changes.
So, does this sound like it would be a worthwhile experiment? The total cost
would likely be $2000 - $3000, including the car...
John
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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| | 12 answers | Add comment |
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| Using a hands-free kit when audio is switched off Marco Senft 09:51:53 |
| | Hi all,
I'm considering putting a hands-free mobile phone kit into my 1998 Saab
9-3. However despite lots of googling I couldn't find out whether the
output of the car kit gets amplified if the audio system is switched off
at the time of the call.
Can someone tell me whether it's necessary to have the radio always
switched on to receive incoming calls, or does it power-on automatically
when the car kit gives out the mute signal?
Any responses greatly appreciated!
--
Marco Senft
http://www.t2g.ch/
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Do rusty wheel nuts need to be replaced? Viktor Haag 01:18:11 |
| | I've noticed that, after this winter, all the wheel nuts on my Saab
appear rusty. I have no steel rims for winter driving, just the
original Saab alloys for my 9-5 ('04). Do I need to replace these wheel
nuts for fear that they'll damage my alloy wheels, or is the only
problem that they're unsightly?
How much should I expect to pay for a completely new set of wheel nuts?
(20, I guess.)
Thanks!
--
Viktor Haag
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
Friday, 7 July 2006
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| Under dash cover is loose Craig M . Bobchin 00:47:23 |
| | Hi all,
my '94 9000 CSE has an unusual interior fit problem that I hope someone
else might know a solution for, since I have been unable to figure one
out.
Under the dash by the steering column and above the pedals is a black
carpeted cover. It appears to be held on by those 2 piece black plastic
screws that Saab is known for. However on mine the piece that it would
screw into (it appears to have a slot cut in it) is ripped/busted and a
screw has nothing to grab onto. So this thing is hanging down and
occasionally hitting my foot whie I'm driving. I've tried sticking it up
with some tape, but it does not hold.
Has anyone come across this ad if so what did you do to fix it?
Thanks
Craig
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Thursday, 6 July 2006
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| 900 se 2.5V6 ACC problem Richp 15:59:31 |
| | Hi
Just bought a very low mileage 1995 900 se 2.5 V6 Auto (1st 900 but 5th
Saab) and all seemed fine at 1st. Last week or so came out and battery
was dead although weather in London very hot. Charged battery and
refitted but then noticed a whirring sound even with the ignition off.
Found this to be coming from behind the interior sensor for the ACC. I
am sure that this is draining the battery but do not know what the
problem is. ACC is not blowing out cold air so needs a regas but do not
know why this whirring noise continues even with engine off. Did the
calibration bit as listed in the manual but still the same.
Any ideas greatfully received.
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Replacing struts and coil springs - Saab 9-3 '99 Fred W 15:53:17 |
| | Ben wrote:> Fred W wrote:>
I have to replace the front coil springs on my '99 9-3.>>> I am considering replacing the strut inserts as well, and here's the>>> question:>>> Can I pair up Bilstein HD (heavy duty) strut inserts with standard OEM>>> (white, white) coil springs?>>> Or do I have to go with the standard OEM struts as well?>>> Looking at the Bilstein HD struts, they look way more sturdy than the>>> standard Saab stuff.>>> If anyone has any experience with this or other pairings of >>> springs/strut inserts for a 9-3, I would really appreciate their>>> thoughts.>>> Yes you can. I installed Bilstein HD struts in a 2000 9-3 CV with >> stock springs. They are made for that. The Bilstein "Sport" struts >> require the use of shorter (lower) springs.>> The car will be a bit over-dampened ( ride a bit on the harsh side) to >> begin with, but as they break in it will become less harsh and >> objectionable, or maybe you just get used to them  >> Thanks guys! I appreciate the input.> The bloody trouble is that the roads in Quebec are complete crap (i.e. > potholes that swallow small cars) and the harsh winter takes quite a > toll on them.> I'll go with the Bilstein HD and see where it goes. I prefer a stiffer > ride and I figure by winter time they'll be "broken in" just right.> Fred, any particular tips on installing them, since you have already > done it?> Thanks again, Ben
Not really. If you've done suspension work before it's pretty much
standard fare. You'll need spring compressors to put together the struts.
--
-Fred W
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
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| cd changer help Cameca8@Yahoo.Com 06:48:31 |
| | The motor just went in my 94 SAAB 900. I just got me a 2001 SAAB 9-5
Aero, but it doesn't have a cd changer. Is there any reason the one in
the older 900 wouldn't work? Is it easy to move from it from one car to
the other?
Thanks
Donald
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| 1996 SAAB 9000 CS - Drains in sunroof opening SilverSurfer 05:57:57 |
| | Good afternoon
My 1996 CS leaks around the sunroof during heavy rains. I have noticed that
the water that gets in around the sunroof is not draining away.
Does anyone know where these drains lead and can they get plugged ?
thank-you in advance
kr
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| 95 9000CS Air Conditioner Question Guest 01:46:27 |
| | I bought a 95 9000CS last February and the air conditioner worked
great. Now that
it's gotten really hot out the A/C isn't blowing very cold air. I'm
thinking that it's time
for it to be charged. It does blow colder in the morning when the air
is cooler.
Since this is my first Saab is there anything I need to know or have
looked at
before I have them charge it - could it be something other than a
simple charge?
I'm an ex-Volvo owner and it seems like the Swedish cars just don't
have much
in the way of A/C.
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
Wednesday, 5 July 2006
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| Looking for a dead CD changer for 9-5 Bill Jackson 22:55:05 |
| | Doesn't have to work, I want to see if I can adapt it to use as an input for
my XM radio receiver.
The factory radio wants something to be married to it, so I need that part
of the interface to work, but the rest can be no good.
Wjackson at rochester dot rr dot com
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| Saab 900 Intercooler Questions Jeremy 11:36:13 |
| | Intercooler questions for the Fourth of July:
1. I was considering upgrading mine to a larger one later this year or
early next year.
1a. Anyone seen aftermarket intercoolers for the Classic 900t? (Group
9 had some, but Mr. Dale has closed up shop and sold the company. I do
not know what the new owner will be doing with the site/store.)
1b. If you have, are there any that will fit in the OEM location with
minimal custom work?
1c. Any thoughts about keeping it in the stock location verses putting
a larger one below the bumper, behind the air dam? I know this would be
an expensive option.
2. I already have one of each style of the OEM intercoolers in my parts
bin at home. Is there any difference between the two?
3. Any one ever upgrade the hose/pipes so that there is a uniform
3"/7.62 cm pipe/adapters throughout the system? Would there be any
advantages to this?
4. I have a small cooling fan (6"/15.24 cm) that I am conteplating
installing to get better airflow over it. Help or hurt? Any thoughts on
this?
5. In an OEM install, does the litle metal/plastic deflector piece make
a major difference in the performance of the intercooler? Mine is
missing, but I have located two in a junk yard.
Jeremy
http://jerem43.home.att.net/
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| | 4 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: A few specific questions about '97 900 S... please help. Turubo 05:22:33 |
| |
retroglamor wrote:> -PLEASE tell me, what does the "S" button on the shifter do?? I know it> lights up and says "SPORT" but other than that what purpose does it> serve.
It changes the AT's internal shift program from "economy" to "sport,"
which upshifts at full rpm for maximum acceleration. I use it when
leaving toll booths.
BTW, if there is a snowflake button at the base of the shifter, it will
start you out in 2nd gear to avoid wheelspin on ice--sort of the
opposite of the 'S' button.
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