Re: Re: Re: My new 944: Help w/ Power Steering, Fuel Gage, Sunro

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Re: Re: Re: My new 944: Help w/ Power Steering, Fuel Gage, Sunro
Sacrin 6 May 2005 09:20:04
	"william_b_noble1" wrote: > a lot of stuff snipped --------- > > Just got some more info to work with: > > The power steering was pulled from another 944 and put in. > I'm > > thinking about going with the power steering reseal kit > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7971373933&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT > > . > > Do you think it is worth dropping a couple hundred to > replace the > > hoses (pressure, return, or reservoir), just in case? > Should I reseal > > the p/s pump as well? I don't know if I'm gonig to attempt > any of > > this or not... might just use my mechanic. How complicated > is this? > > The heater core is blown and there is bipass valve from the > heater. I > > bought a used hear core. How hard is it to replace the > core, and will > > I need to buy hoses and valves? > > The wiper motor is broken. My wipers don't stop in the > right place. > > I'm buying a used one to try. > > The check oil light stays on. Apparently, the wire is > snagged > > somewhere under the engine and is causing it to stay on. > Any chance > > this is causing my fuel gage problem? > 1. no, don't replace hoses - how could it be a couple of > hundred?? where do > you get your hoses??? I have never had a PS hose fail. > 2. No, if the pump isn't leaking, leave it alone. > 3. If you have no mechanical skills, don't attempt the > rebuild. And why buy > through ebay instead of calling the renbay guy I mentioned in > the first > place? you can pay more if you want, I guess that's your > choice. The seal > at the base of the worm gear is hard to get out without > damaging the > housing. You can get a professionally rebuilt unit for under > $300. > 4. heater core is a pain to get out - you pretty much have to > disassemble > the entire underdash area. > 5. replace hoses if leaking or unusually soft, else don't > 6. the wiper motor is NOT broken. the shutoff switch may have > a problem, or > there may be a broken wire. > 7. "apparently" ??? do you mean to say that you have not > tested the sender? > and no, the oil pressure and fuel sender are not related. > I don't understand how you can ask these questions and start > replacing parts > without first doing some basic diagnostics and reading of the > service > manual. You can DL the manual free from the web, you can test > the oil press > sender with a 25 cent light bulb, you can inspect hoses and > read for free - > Consider a little independed reading first, then dig into your > car. I’ve been doing reading for the past couple of days on the net. I’ve also bought the Haynes’s manual. My car has been sitting at the shop for the past 2-3 weeks, so I have not been able to test/look at anything. I’m just basing my knowledge on what they told me and asking questions accordingly. I haven’t replaced anything yet. Just trying to get opinions from people who know more than me. I was looking at hoses on pelicanparts.com. The rack rebuild kit on ebay is the same cost ($70) as renbay and same pictute. I just assumed it was from the same guy. How do I check the wiper issue? 2 mechanics have told me that the wiper motor must be replaced to fix. Is there another way? I mean "apparently", the check oil light wire is snagged, because that is what the shop told me, but I dont know whether it is true or not. I don’t know what the oil press send is or what it has to do with anything we are talking about. thanks for the help so far though -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Porsche-944-Help-Power-Steering-Fuel-Gage-Sunroof-ftopict112791.html Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=576443 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- SPEED RETENTION COMPLETION ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com
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Sacrin 6 May 2005 00:45:11 [ permanent link ]
	"william_b_noble1" wrote: > a lot of stuff snipped --------- > > Just got some more info to work with: > > The power steering was pulled from another 944 and put in. > I'm > > thinking about going with the power steering reseal kit > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7971373933&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT > > . > > Do you think it is worth dropping a couple hundred to > replace the > > hoses (pressure, return, or reservoir), just in case? > Should I reseal > > the p/s pump as well? I don't know if I'm gonig to attempt > any of > > this or not... might just use my mechanic. How complicated > is this? > > The heater core is blown and there is bipass valve from the > heater. I > > bought a used hear core. How hard is it to replace the > core, and will > > I need to buy hoses and valves? > > The wiper motor is broken. My wipers don't stop in the > right place. > > I'm buying a used one to try. > > The check oil light stays on. Apparently, the wire is > snagged > > somewhere under the engine and is causing it to stay on. > Any chance > > this is causing my fuel gage problem? > 1. no, don't replace hoses - how could it be a couple of > hundred?? where do > you get your hoses??? I have never had a PS hose fail. > 2. No, if the pump isn't leaking, leave it alone. > 3. If you have no mechanical skills, don't attempt the > rebuild. And why buy > through ebay instead of calling the renbay guy I mentioned in > the first > place? you can pay more if you want, I guess that's your > choice. The seal > at the base of the worm gear is hard to get out without > damaging the > housing. You can get a professionally rebuilt unit for under > $300. > 4. heater core is a pain to get out - you pretty much have to > disassemble > the entire underdash area. > 5. replace hoses if leaking or unusually soft, else don't > 6. the wiper motor is NOT broken. the shutoff switch may have > a problem, or > there may be a broken wire. > 7. "apparently" ??? do you mean to say that you have not > tested the sender? > and no, the oil pressure and fuel sender are not related. > I don't understand how you can ask these questions and start > replacing parts > without first doing some basic diagnostics and reading of the > service > manual. You can DL the manual free from the web, you can test > the oil press > sender with a 25 cent light bulb, you can inspect hoses and > read for free - > Consider a little independed reading first, then dig into your > car. William, How long ago did you reseal your rack? I am asking because I had a mechanic worn me against resealing a rack if you don’t have the proper machinery. They need to be sealed with a machine in order to make the seals tight enough to keep it from leaking. -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Porsche-944-Help-Power-Steering-Fuel-Gage-Sunroof-ftopict112791.html Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=576734
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Sacrin 6 May 2005 00:45:24 [ permanent link ]
	"sacrin" wrote: > William, > How long ago did you reseal your rack? I am asking because I > had a mechanic worn me against resealing a rack if you don't > have the proper machinery. They need to be sealed with a > machine in order to make the seals tight enough to keep it > from leaking. One more question... Do you need an alignment after you replace/reseal your p/s rack?
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William_b_noble 6 May 2005 09:20:04 [ permanent link ]
	ok, some advise and answers: 1. download the real porsche manual from the web, you will need it - the haynes manual is not all that useful, nor is it always accurate. 2. the oil pressure sender also contains the switch that drives the indicator light - hence my suggestion that you check it. It is located on the pass side of the engine above the oil/water cooler. 3. the wiper motor apparently runs, or you would not have said that it doesn't stop in the right place. Stopping is controlled by a cam and a switch. A separate wire feeds power to the switch so that the motor keeps running until the wipers are in the right place and then the switch opens and the motor stops. If the wipers just stop when you move the wiper switch to off, then it is quite possible that this wire is disconnected. The switch may also be jammed, dirty, or damaged - easy to check. 4. the renbay guy does sell on ebay - I suggested going to him directly because I dealt with him and talked to him on the phone when I had problems - you want to get it from him, not someone else because he is known to be helpful. "> I've been doing reading for the past couple of days on the net. I've> also bought the Haynes's manual.> My car has been sitting at the shop for the past 2-3 weeks, so I have> not been able to test/look at anything. I'm just basing my knowledge> on what they told me and asking questions accordingly. I haven't> replaced anything yet. Just trying to get opinions from people who> know more than me.> I was looking at hoses on pelicanparts.com.> The rack rebuild kit on ebay is the same cost ($70) as renbay and same> pictute. I just assumed it was from the same guy.> How do I check the wiper issue? 2 mechanics have told me that the> wiper motor must be replaced to fix. Is there another way?> I mean "apparently", the check oil light wire is snagged, because> that is what the shop told me, but I dont know whether it is true or> not.> I don't know what the oil press send is or what it has to do with> anything we are talking about.> thanks for the help so far though>
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William_b_noble 6 May 2005 09:22:46 [ permanent link ]
	">> William,> How long ago did you reseal your rack? I am asking because I had a> mechanic worn me against resealing a rack if you don't have the proper> machinery. They need to be sealed with a machine in order to make the> seals tight enough to keep it from leaking.> -- what the mechanic said to you is nonsense. I made a mistake reassembling my rack (I put the shuttle seal in backwards) and so it leaked - there was nothing needing special tooling to assemble. But, as I noted, removing the seal at the base of the worm is a real )()()(*, so I'd suggest buying a special tool, or having a machine shop pull that one seal - if I ever do another rack, I'll either make or buy a tool for that purpose - the risk of damaging the aluminum housing is just too great. I could have fixed my rack by just reversing the incorrectly installed seal, but I was out of time, so I just changed the whole thing.
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William_b_noble 6 May 2005 09:24:13 [ permanent link ]
	"sacrin" <DoNotEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:1_576736_fde50f01ba0a6edd70d0175183349e91@autoforumz.com...> "sacrin" wrote:> > William,> > How long ago did you reseal your rack? I am asking because I> > had a mechanic worn me against resealing a rack if you don't> > have the proper machinery. They need to be sealed with a> > machine in order to make the seals tight enough to keep it> > from leaking.> One more question...> Do you need an alignment after you replace/reseal your p/s rack? an alingment would be a good idea, but not mandatory - IF you unscrew the tie rods from the rack and don't mess with the adjustments on the outer ends, then when you put it back, all SHOULD be ok. On the other hand, a $30 alignment check by a reputable place can save you $$$ on tires.
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Re: Re: Re: My new 944: Help w/ Power Steering, Fuel Gage, Sunro

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