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Re: 1986 Carrera fuel problem?
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CarGuru > Porsche > Re: 1986 Carrera fuel problem? 2 May 2005 07:06:10

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Re: 1986 Carrera fuel problem?

PatrickB 28 April 2005 13:48:38
 Wish it was so easy as a filter. I've got an '85 3.2 that has driven me
insane, for 2 years, trying to fix a similar problem... It started out
like you described. Almost impossible to hold a steady 80mph in 5th? and
then it seems to move around about a 400 rpm range... Try driving about
1/3rd throttle all the way up to about 5000 rpm. You might be in for a
surprise. if it bogs out, keep accellerating and you should pass through
the dead zone.
Fortunately, I'm good friends with my one man independent shop. He has
kept the car for months at a time tearing the car apart attempting to
diagnose. Fuel filter is the first thing to check. Then he basically
swapped out parts and components from working cars one piece at a time.
Still no luck! Computer, air box, we checked and replaced all vacume
hoses. Bench tested all injectors, compression check, leak down test.
Then he checked out the electrical system. Everything checked out fine.
He then replaced a cylinder head temp sensor, and that for whatever
reason, slowed down the problem. I drove the car another year (10,000
miles) and out on a long road trip far away from home the problem reared
it's ugly head. When I returned, He removed a quick disconnect end from
the battery cables, and put on new stock connectors on both ends of the
positive and negative cables, and a new battery. Interestingly enough,
the electrical system had shown numbers in the exact middle of the
acceptable range. However, I was on year 5 of a 4 year battery. Also,
there actually was some corrosion where the negative wire was grounded
near the tranny. After replacing the battery and the connectors, This
eliminated about 90% of the problem. There actually was some corrosion
wherer the negative wire was grounded near the tranny. If anyone else got
in my car and drove it, they would be hard pressed to notice. If I drive
at about 2/3rd's throttle and short shift it, it drives great. There is
just a slight hint of hesitation at the 80mph cruise. Just to let you
know, I've got 130k on the original motor, with a bypass pipe, K&N filter,
and an AutoAuthority chip. Removing the chip made no difference in solving
the problem. I've had the car back for about a week, and it seems to be
running great. Good luck, and let me know if you resolve your problem!
Whatever you do, don't go to a dealer!!! They would just start replacing
part after part. Then after you've already spent about $5k with no
solution, they'll jerk you around, and tell you you need to rebuild the
engine to the tune of $10k!!
Patrick
patbrass@earthlink.­net

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Srw_white 29 April 2005 01:02:11 permanent link ]
 "PatrickB" wrote: > Wish it was so easy as a filter. I've got an '85 3.2 that has > driven me > insane, for 2 years, trying to fix a similar problem... It > started out > like you described. Almost impossible to hold a steady 80mph > in 5th? and > then it seems to move around about a 400 rpm range... Try > driving about > 1/3rd throttle all the way up to about 5000 rpm. You might be > in for a > surprise. if it bogs out, keep accellerating and you should > pass through > the dead zone. > Fortunately, I'm good friends with my one man independent > shop. He has > kept the car for months at a time tearing the car apart > attempting to > diagnose. Fuel filter is the first thing to check. Then he > basically > swapped out parts and components from working cars one piece > at a time. > Still no luck! Computer, air box, we checked and replaced all > vacume > hoses. Bench tested all injectors, compression check, leak > down test. > Then he checked out the electrical system. Everything checked > out fine. > He then replaced a cylinder head temp sensor, and that for > whatever > reason, slowed down the problem. I drove the car another year > (10,000 > miles) and out on a long road trip far away from home the > problem reared > it's ugly head. When I returned, He removed a quick > disconnect end from > the battery cables, and put on new stock connectors on both > ends of the > positive and negative cables, and a new battery. > Interestingly enough, > the electrical system had shown numbers in the exact middle of > the > acceptable range. However, I was on year 5 of a 4 year > battery. Also, > there actually was some corrosion where the negative wire was > grounded > near the tranny. After replacing the battery and the > connectors, This > eliminated about 90% of the problem. There actually was some > corrosion > wherer the negative wire was grounded near the tranny. If > anyone else got > in my car and drove it, they would be hard pressed to notice. > If I drive > at about 2/3rd's throttle and short shift it, it drives great. > There is > just a slight hint of hesitation at the 80mph cruise. Just > to let you > know, I've got 130k on the original motor, with a bypass pipe, > K&N filter, > and an AutoAuthority chip. Removing the chip made no > difference in solving > the problem. I've had the car back for about a week, and it > seems to be > running great. Good luck, and let me know if you resolve your > problem! > Whatever you do, don't go to a dealer!!! They would just > start replacing > part after part. Then after you've already spent about $5k > with no > solution, they'll jerk you around, and tell you you need to > rebuild the > engine to the tune of $10k!! > Patrick > patbrass@earthlink.­net

The car has now been in the garage (Porsche specalist) for the last 11
weeks!!! It has been narrowed down to an electrical problem on the
loom as all other parts have been swapped out during testing. I’ll
update this thread if the problem is ever resolved.

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PatrickB 29 April 2005 07:02:49 permanent link ]
 Even if your mechanic gets acceptable voltage readings on the Neg & Pos
lines, as mine did, have him replace the terminal ends, and also clean the
spot on the frame where the negative lead grounds to the frame. Between
that, and a new battery, my 2 year long battle has pretty much been
resolved! How old is your battery?
PB

Add comment
Srw_white 29 April 2005 18:33:43 permanent link ]
 "PatrickB" wrote: > Even if your mechanic gets acceptable voltage readings on the > Neg & Pos > lines, as mine did, have him replace the terminal ends, and > also clean the > spot on the frame where the negative lead grounds to the > frame. Between > that, and a new battery, my 2 year long battle has pretty much > been > resolved! How old is your battery? > PB

It was a new battery about 18 months ago.

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PatrickB 2 May 2005 07:06:10 permanent link ]
 As dumb as it sounds, sometimes these wonderful computers and corresponding
sensors are so freaking sensitive, you might suggest cleaning the gound
contact to the frame. This was where my mechanic found some
barnicles.... This is located in an area that is of course subject to
moisture. Prior to the start of this ugly problem, I was using this car
to commute 400 miles every weekend for 12 weeks, and often in the rain.
Several months after this is when the problem started. In attempting to
diagnose the mysterious "weak cylinder" the problem would migrate from
cylinder to cylinder. Computer problem then right? As it couldn't be a
fuel injection, or valve train or cylinder problem right?? After swapping
several "working computers" from 3 different cars, (85 & 86) the same
intermittant and migratory problem existed... Get your guy to clean the
gound area where the wire is attached to the frame. Also, perhaps new
connectors at both ends (+ & -)..... This is the cheapest of all the
checks he will be doing, and if you car has any miles on it, will end up
saving you the potential grief I've already been through! Good Luck!!

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CarGuru > Porsche > Re: 1986 Carrera fuel problem? 2 May 2005 07:06:10

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