W126 aluminum vs steel hood

Why can't I write a whole text in CAPS?

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CarGuru > Mercedes > W126 aluminum vs steel hood 2 May 2005 06:27:10

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W126 aluminum vs steel hood
Marlinspike 17 April 2005 06:41:30
	I see that there are aluminum and steel hoods available for my car (1985 380SE). Which do I want? Any downside to the aluminum other than cost? I also see if I go with a new part there is only one choice. Anyone know if that choice is aluminum or steel? Also, anybody ever had work done at Lake Norman Paint and Body in Cornelius, NC? Thanks, Richard
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Tiger 17 April 2005 08:17:56 [ permanent link ]
	Okay... what happened this time? Your car sounded like it is falling apart big time...
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T.G. Lambach 17 April 2005 08:41:38 [ permanent link ]
	My '80 300SD has an aluminum hood and trunk lid to save weight. The only downside is that the trunk lid hasn't the inertia to slam shut - so one lowers the lid and then presses it shut - click. I'd take aluminum anytime.
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Filip 17 April 2005 17:11:16 [ permanent link ]
	"T.G. Lambach" <tlambach@comcast.net> wrote in message news:_cydneH9WsKddPzfRVn-hw@comcast.com...> My '80 300SD has an aluminum hood and trunk lid to save weight. The only> downside is that the trunk lid hasn't the inertia to slam shut - so one> lowers the lid and then presses it shut - click.> I'd just like to comment on this one...a guy that works as a body mechanic (I don't know the correct eng/am name for it) - who repairs tin and other body damage on car....told me that any hood (or trunk) should be closed by simply letting go the hood to drop from like - 50cm and to shut close. that way, you will ensure it's safely closed, and you will prevent it from getting bent or other kind of damage you can make by -push click shutting it.
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Marlinspike 17 April 2005 18:26:06 [ permanent link ]
	Um...I got into an accident on Friday. It's actually not falling apart, the only thing it needed to be PERFECT was for me to replace the number 8 injector seal, which I was going to do yesterday....guess not. I know, you're thinking what about all the problems it had. I fixed those over the past couple months, and they were all pretty much just little nothings that sounded like big somethings. But yeah, so my car was just about perfect (Body shop guy said before the accident it would have probably got about $7000 on the market, which is good for a 380), the guy in front of the guy in front of me nails his brakes and comes to a complete stop (later I realized to make a left turn, reportedly without a turn signal), the pathfinder in front of me does the same, I tried to do the same in addition to trying to steer around, but even though I was following proper distance and doing the speed limit (maybe less), I just couldn't stop in time nor turn around in time (I didn't start turning until I realized I might not be able to stop in time, which was dumb, from now on I'm just going to turn around whenever I have to hit my brakes hard - I did manage to save basically everything left of the driver's fog light) Now we're looking at a hood, driver's fender, all the headlamp stuff, maybe a grill maybe not. Couldn't get the hood open, but the body shop says they don't see anything else wrong, but they'll let me know on Monday after they get the hood off.
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Marlinspike 17 April 2005 18:27:31 [ permanent link ]
	Strange. In the owner's manual for my dad's BMW it specifies not to do the drop shut but to do the push click shut on the hood. It's also the only car I've ever had/driven that the push click shut actually was capable of shutting the hood.
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T.G. Lambach 17 April 2005 20:50:35 [ permanent link ]
	He's right to say that.
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Marlinspike 17 April 2005 23:54:16 [ permanent link ]
	Also, even the other guy said unbaited that "it stinks that you hit me because it becomes your fault even though that guy caused it"
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Pool Man 18 April 2005 01:19:49 [ permanent link ]
	you are responsible for every thing in front of you while driving. it was your fault ! every time the oil is changed you should ask them to look. don't pass the buck for misjudging your ability to drive properly the case, minus a few cans!
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 02:22:52 [ permanent link ]
	I know it's my fault. I know when you rear end somebody its automatically your fault, all I was saying is I wish he had been in a car so the damage would have been less. Sheesh it's gotten so they jump all over you in here. Give a guy a break will ya? Then again, why should you, nobody else does. You guys just don't understand how much that car means to me, I mean I'm literally depressed and then everybody starts jumping all over you. I think the only way to make you guys understand what the car means to me is to tell youthat right after i hit him i got out of my car crying. He thought I was hurt, I didn't feel a thing, I was crying for my car. I spent about 10 minutes on my knees without saying a word just picking the glass out of the headlamp. That car means everything to me. You know how they say well at least you're alright that's all that matters? Well that's not the case. If somebody told me I could undo all this but I'd have to break your left arm, your legs, and a couple of ribs I'd tell him to do it. So maybe sometimes you should just let something somebody says slide so you don't drive him clinically insane or worse. Every time I change the oil I should ask them to look? What them? I guess I'll start looking from now on.
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Guest 18 April 2005 02:44:51 [ permanent link ]
	"marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> wrote:>I honestly was not following too close nor speeding (even the other guy>said so). I just wasn't able to come to a dead stop in time. Uh, not to put too fine a point on it, but isn't that the #define of too {close,fast}?
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Pool Man 18 April 2005 05:10:43 [ permanent link ]
	if you turn the wheel full left or right you should be able to see the pads. just stick your head under & look now if he disks are glazed you may want to replace them. the case, minus a few cans!
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 05:38:42 [ permanent link ]
	Hmm, disks you say. I just looked at my records. They have a history of lasting about 23000 miles, last time they were replaced: 23000 miles. Hmm and my pads have never lasted more than 8000 and the current ones have 13000 one them. Perhaps my pad low indicator light has failed me? Of course I've always used MB pads and this time there are PRB metal masters on there. I'm guessing fresh rotors and pads would have stopped me that 5 feet sooner that I needed?
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Pool Man 18 April 2005 06:35:27 [ permanent link ]
	you must do a lot of city driving with a heavy foot the case, minus a few cans!
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 06:50:55 [ permanent link ]
	About 90% city driving. I'm from DC, so the city really is city. If you average the number of stops and the number of miles, it's probably one stop per 1/4 mile. Though I've been doing more highway driving lately.
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Guest 18 April 2005 14:27:24 [ permanent link ]
	"marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> wrote:>I'm guessing fresh rotors and pads would have stopped>me that 5 feet sooner that I needed? Ah, brake problems probably explains it. Didn't mean to give you a hard time, my MB is pretty much irreplacable as well, so I know how you must feel...
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 15:54:31 [ permanent link ]
	We bought my 380 when I was born, literally. It's first trip home was also my first trip home. But yeah, I'm in the process of e-mailing around for a big brake kit, but it seems nobody makes them for the w126 any more and everybody is out of new old stock stuff too. I'm going to at least go to ATE power discs. I wonder why Benz left all the brake replacement stuff out of the service cd's. I know it's in my service books, but those are back home. Or is just my CD missing it?
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Wan-ning Tan 18 April 2005 18:11:49 [ permanent link ]
	The official CD from MB? I have seen the brake section. It's there. Anyway, it is pretty similar among all MB or even all disk brakes. If you need help, let me know. Yes, I can help, literally. I live in Maryland and work in DC too. The city driving you described, yeah, I experience that too The traffic is getting pretty bad in recent years. marlinspike wrote:> We bought my 380 when I was born, literally. It's first trip home was> also my first trip home. But yeah, I'm in the process of e-mailing> around for a big brake kit, but it seems nobody makes them for the w126> any more and everybody is out of new old stock stuff too. I'm going to> at least go to ATE power discs. I wonder why Benz left all the brake> replacement stuff out of the service cd's. I know it's in my service> books, but those are back home. Or is just my CD missing it?>
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Tiger 18 April 2005 18:49:23 [ permanent link ]
	ATE Powedisc is great choice. I use them all the time. Buy ceramic pads to go with it.
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 20:20:23 [ permanent link ]
	Really, ceramics? I've been using prb metal masters, thought you recommended them to me? I don't care 1 cent about brake dust, I wash my car every week anyways. Also don't care about having to frequently replace pads, all I care about is having bite and not fading.
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 20:21:30 [ permanent link ]
	Thanks for the offer, but I'm in North Carolina for the time being. Yep, the official CD, it has the brake section but it's missing the parts about pad and rotor replacement. It's in my paper books of the service manual, which I have back home in DC.
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 20:23:01 [ permanent link ]
	Though you know what, you would probably know the answer to my only real question on rotor replacement. Do I really need to repack the wheel bearings and is it easy to screw up repacking the bearings at all? I've done pads, takes like 10 seconds, and other than repacking the bearings which is something I've never done (never replaced rotors before, but seems simple) replacing the rotors seems almost as easy.
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Martin Joseph 18 April 2005 21:40:16 [ permanent link ]
	On 2005-04-18 09:20:23 -0700, "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> said: Really, ceramics? I've been using prb metal masters, thought you> recommended them to me? I don't care 1 cent about brake dust, I wash my> car every week anyways. Also don't care about having to frequently> replace pads, all I care about is having bite and not fading. LOL!!!!
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Tiger 18 April 2005 21:55:49 [ permanent link ]
	Yes, I kinda prefers the MetalMaster...Ceramic is also excellent... but not as great as the MetalMaster.
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Marlinspike 18 April 2005 22:25:38 [ permanent link ]
	Hmmm, the people who distribute the metal masters to the US tell me that I would get more bite from the Axxis (aka PBR) Ultimate pads.
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Tiger 19 April 2005 03:43:17 [ permanent link ]
	Ultimate is their ceramic pad. I got that on my front brake on my current MB. Great initial grab... better than MetalMaster... sorta like standard pad... The only thing I missed about MM is the ability to modulate the brake force... how hard you step on the brake, the more stopping power there is. With Ultamate, that is not there... It just got gobs of bites right away... yet it doesn't give you more braking power the harder you step on the pad... sorta less grab the hotter it gets. Very subjective... I just like to have the control. Ultimate is dusty when first installed, but later clears out. Bosch Ceramic pad is supposed to be good too with zero break-in period.
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Wan-ning Tan 19 April 2005 07:42:45 [ permanent link ]
	Don't need to pack the wheel bearing. You know how to change the pads? That's great. So the caliper is off. The rotor has a screw locking it to the hub. I think it's 4 or 5mm hex key. Just pull off the rotor once the locking screw is out. There may be rust on the hub contacting surface. If so, use a hammer to knock out the rotor. Don't worry. The rotor is not going to be reused (MB manual does not mention the rotor is serviceable. My local shop also refuses to resurface it.) Rear rotors are different since replacing pads does not need to take down the caliper. Also the parking brake (inside the rotor) may need to be released slightly to allow removal of rotor. The above is all by memory. The last time I did on W126 was almost two years ago but I really don't recall anything special between it and W201 or W202. Good luck. marlinspike wrote:> Though you know what, you would probably know the answer to my only> real question on rotor replacement. Do I really need to repack the> wheel bearings and is it easy to screw up repacking the bearings at> all? I've done pads, takes like 10 seconds, and other than repacking> the bearings which is something I've never done (never replaced rotors> before, but seems simple) replacing the rotors seems almost as easy.>
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Marlinspike 19 April 2005 08:10:28 [ permanent link ]
	You don't take off the caliper to replace the front pads on a W126, but as long as it is no more difficult than unbolting it and bolting it back on, I don't see anything special about it. So every how often should I repack the wheel bearings?
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Trader4@Optonline.Net 19 April 2005 16:12:11 [ permanent link ]
	"He's right to say that. " I agree. A well designed and built hood/trunk lid should close with a modest amount of hand pressure. And as you pointed out, on some cars, like our 300SD's, the lid is so light you can't close it by dropping it from any height. Plus it closes so very nice with just a little pressure, it's a chance to marvel at the craftsmanship. Sort of like enjoying the vault like sound when the doors close!
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Tiger 20 April 2005 00:49:07 [ permanent link ]
	Whenever you take out the rotor/hub assembly.
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Marlinspike 20 April 2005 01:02:15 [ permanent link ]
	Don't you do that to replace the rotors?
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Tiger 20 April 2005 05:07:53 [ permanent link ]
	Yep... you need a 6mm allen key on 3/8" socket... a 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter... and a long bar wrench to get that rotor off the hub. What I did is take the hub out... put in on the wheel and use three lugbolt to hold the hub... flip the wheel over and use the wheel like a vise to keep it from spinning as you remove the allen bolts.
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Pool Man 20 April 2005 06:38:43 [ permanent link ]
	well said Conrad the case, minus a few cans!
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Wan-ning Tan 20 April 2005 07:47:14 [ permanent link ]
	Oops, so my memory was not right. Is this a senior moment? Anyway, I am going to refresh my memory by practicing it in the next few days. Tiger wrote:> Yep... you need a 6mm allen key on 3/8" socket... a 3/8" to 1/2" socket > adapter... and a long bar wrench to get that rotor off the hub.> What I did is take the hub out... put in on the wheel and use three lugbolt > to hold the hub... flip the wheel over and use the wheel like a vise to keep > it from spinning as you remove the allen bolts. >
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Martin Joseph 20 April 2005 11:31:50 [ permanent link ]
	On 2005-04-19 18:43:45 -0700, Conrad <nospam@no_org.net> said: You have blamed everything except the real problem. Your judgement. Amen.
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Guest 20 April 2005 14:55:19 [ permanent link ]
	Conrad <nospam@no_org.net> wrote:>You have blamed everything except the real problem. Your judgement.>It must be SUVs. It must be a deficient braking system. On the other tentacle, he did discover in retrospect that his braking system was unexpectedly deficient (the wrong pads, and probably too long on the car). Yeah, his own fault, but then it all comes down to human error in the end, doesn't it? How about saying it was a combination of factors, including driving too {fast,close}, improper and worn brake pads, and Suburban Assault Vehicles with inappropriate bumper heights?
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Marlinspike 20 April 2005 16:03:22 [ permanent link ]
	Thanks Will, but I think I'm done reading this hate fest. T.G. (and T.G. alone) already answered my question, time to un-star this thread.
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Tiger 20 April 2005 18:00:50 [ permanent link ]
	You were talking about W124 or the W201... they look kinda alike. Nah, you just skipped a couple of steps.
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Pool Man 21 April 2005 00:14:11 [ permanent link ]
	well been 19 says it all the case, minus a few cans!
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Mia 21 April 2005 23:35:36 [ permanent link ]
	Dam, You must feel pretty crummy about crashing your Benz. I was one of those gals who never understood how guys can spent soooo much time on their Grand AM's and such, waxing, polishing, installing expensive bass Until I got my 300SD. I don't go too crazy, a car's a car, but I really love it a lot. MV
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Pool Man 22 April 2005 04:57:36 [ permanent link ]
	step kids can't take them anywhere! grin the case, minus a few cans!
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Roger Shoaf 24 April 2005 06:59:38 [ permanent link ]
	"marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> wrote in message news:1113776572.618013.83510@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...> I know it's my fault. I know when you rear end somebody its> automatically your fault, all I was saying is I wish he had been in a> car so the damage would have been less. Sheesh it's gotten so they jump> all over you in here. Give a guy a break will ya? Then again, why> should you, nobody else does. You guys just don't understand how much> that car means to me, I mean I'm literally depressed and then everybody> starts jumping all over you. I think the only way to make you guys> understand what the car means to me is to tell youthat right after i> hit him i got out of my car crying. He thought I was hurt, I didn't> feel a thing, I was crying for my car. I spent about 10 minutes on my> knees without saying a word just picking the glass out of the headlamp.> That car means everything to me. It is just a car. Repeat this over and over. There are a lot more cars out there as good or better. Maintain your perspective. You know how they say well at least> you're alright that's all that matters? Well that's not the case. If> somebody told me I could undo all this but I'd have to break your left> arm, your legs, and a couple of ribs I'd tell him to do it. For the price of fixing all of that damage you could buy 3 or more cars as good or better than your car. This might not be the case if you had a Tucker or a Dusenburg, but there a re a lot of 126's out there. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff.
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Marlinspike 24 April 2005 17:46:16 [ permanent link ]
	Oh, and while there are a lot of SEL's out there, there aren't that many SE's. The 380SE was only sold in the US for 2 years and during those two years only 25,000 were made for the entire world (and looking at the previous production numbers I'm guessing about 13,000 made it to the states). And I really don't understand where you're getting that there are a lot more cars out there as good or better. Name 5 current production cars that are better built than a W126. Maybe some look better on the surface, or have better performance numbers, but start taking them apart and you'll see what I mean: there are none.
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Rob Pruyt 25 April 2005 13:04:59 [ permanent link ]
	My advice is to call some car recycling companies (junkyards). Used hood and fender should be 300 ,if you are lucky and they have them in the right colour it's an easy an cheap fix. Also buy a used headlight, a new one will be brighter and will look strange. I replaced a front fender after someone hit it with his trailer for 50 and one hour work. If there is more damage underneath go to a small repair shop, big bodywork companies work mostly on new leased cars an are much more expensive. DonвЂ™t spent money on special brakes unless you are a professional rally driver. The standard brakes are very good for normal use. Special brakes are better cooled and more heat resistant, if you need that on normal roads you drive much to fast. If the normal pads wear out to quickly you can use harder (taxi) pad. They last longer but are less effective. High performance pads are hard on the rotors. If you drive more defensive you have to brake less, the 126 is a nice car but not a sports car.
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Marlinspike 25 April 2005 14:46:36 [ permanent link ]
	Yeah, I'm not bothering with high performance brakes so much any more. It ws determined on another forum that something is up with my brakes (in dry weather I can't get the abs to kick in no matter how hard I brake, and it's not because the ABS is messed up but because it won't stop hard enough to need it), so when I get my car back I'm going to replaced the lines, pads, and rotors and flush the fluid and take it from there. I'll get body parts in the same color if I need to, but I rather have them painted to match since junkyard parts won't have the color to them. All I can find in the same color is the fender anyways, no hoods.
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Marlinspike 25 April 2005 21:16:21 [ permanent link ]
	The extent of my brake work so far is pads (it's all I've had the opportunity to do since getting enough car experience under my belt to feel comfortable touching brakes), but my dad used to also do the rotors on his 300D back in the day, so I'll just wait to do all this until summer (and just leave a LOT of room between me and other cars until then...my brakes aren't totally defficient so I don't think it's dangerous as long as I keep them in mind) and have him help me do everything. The caliper rebuild kits are only $15, so I'll add them to my list (pads, rotors, rebuild calipers, replace brake lines). I have the service manuals in book and CD form, so it shouldn't be too hard. Richard
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Rob Pruyt 26 April 2005 13:56:41 [ permanent link ]
	Rebuilding callipers is not very difficult. There are a few things to keep in mind: 1- Only use alcohol based cleaning fluid, petroleum based fluids destroy the rubber in the braking system. Brake fluid is good 2- Use the correct brake fluid 3- Getting the pistons out may be difficult. Compressed air can be handy, with en piece of hose over the nozzle of the airgun. But remember to put some wood between the pistons, not your fingers or anything else that may hurt. 4- Put the pistons back in their original bores 5- Do not scratch the pistons or the bore, if the are damaged they must be replaced 6- Be very careful with the bleeding nipples, they brake easily. Mercedes callipers and nipples are not so bad.
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Martin Joseph 27 April 2005 23:05:26 [ permanent link ]
	On 2005-04-25 10:16:21 -0700, "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> said: The extent of my brake work so far is pads <snip> If you put pads on without resurfacing the rotors, that could be your whole problem. The Rotors should be at least "roughed up" when the pads are replaced... Marty
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Marlinspike 28 April 2005 00:52:01 [ permanent link ]
	I thought MB specifies to never resurface rotors (the rotors are stock MB rotors). Is this not correct? I can't check for myself as the service cd doesn't include the pad replacement and my service books are 400 miles away.
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Marlinspike 28 April 2005 00:55:03 [ permanent link ]
	They went back door on me, called my dad, and told him the estimate was $3600 and that they will total it, but in the end I will get $3600 (basically this way they would avoid paying for any additional costs that get incurred). In fact, the initial estimate was $3600 and after taking the car apart that came to $4200, but since my dad had already accepted (not on paper, but over the phone), it was enough to kill my entire bargaining position. My dad will cover the difference for me though.
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Martin Joseph 29 April 2005 03:15:14 [ permanent link ]
	On 2005-04-27 13:55:03 -0700, "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> said:> My dad will cover the difference for me> though. Thanks dad!
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Guest 29 April 2005 17:36:29 [ permanent link ]
	"marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> wrote:>I get the feeling he just wanted to get the thing over with. Yeah, we know how he feels. 8*)
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Martin Joseph 1 May 2005 21:20:02 [ permanent link ]
	On 2005-04-27 13:52:01 -0700, "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> said: I thought MB specifies to never resurface rotors (the rotors are stock> MB rotors). Is this not correct? I can't check for myself as the> service cd doesn't include the pad replacement and my service books are> 400 miles away. Don't know the specific answer to this. There are two different things being discussed here though... Usually resurfacing refers to re-machining the surface of the disk after damage has been done to it. This means someone didn't change the pads and wore grooves or scars into the metal disc surface (whoo hoo both spellings!). I guess the above is what Mercedes doesn't recommend. I suppose they don't put any extra metal into the discs to begin with in the interest of most rapid cooling... This means if you toast the disk you need to replace it. On the other hand, the roughing up I am talking about isn't a re-machining. You can accomplish it with a stiff wire brush or a medium light grit of sandpaper (clean throughly afterwards!). Usually I use a wire brush head on my cordless drill. simply working in circles over the surface of the disc until it doesn't look polished (shiny) any longer. This doesn't really remove any significant material, and allows the new pads to seat more efficiently. I would love to hear from some more experienced MB techs about this in case my experience doesn't apply here ? Marty
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Marlinspike 1 May 2005 21:33:44 [ permanent link ]
	Isn't this only if you don't bed them in by taking it up to 50 and slowing down to 20 (I forget the exact speeds, they're in the book) for the first few stops (well, not stops, since you shouldn't come to a complete stop until after they;ve been bedded, but you know what I mean)?
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Pool Man 2 May 2005 06:27:10 [ permanent link ]
	it is to SEAT the new pads they have hi & low spots and a little scuffing of the disks helps to pull off the hi spots and to get better contact with the 2 surfaces . it is better than burning them in if one rotor is bent <warped> replace both the case, minus a few cans!
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CarGuru > Mercedes > W126 aluminum vs steel hood 2 May 2005 06:27:10

	see also: Re: Fuel Line Question Re: Best mod ever for rFactor: Historic…		pass tests:		see also: 1995 ford explorer rack and pinion 1995 ford explorer rack and pinion power steering problem?

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W126 aluminum vs steel hood

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