Accord 92 front brakes

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Accord 92 front brakes
Cosza 2 May 2005 17:07:42
	I changed my front disks and pads 2 years ago and now they are warped . Also had a seized caliper. So I changed them again. 3 weeks later I get vibration again once in a while. . I know that these disks are pressed fit , has anybody else have issues with this generation Accord front brakes.
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Wayne L 9 August 2005 07:50:34 [ permanent link ]
	I've had this problem on several of the cars I've owned. The problem was caused by just pushing the pistons all the way back in with a c-clamp or whatever, and installing the new pads. Sometimes you can get away with this, and sometimes you don't. The main thing holding the pistons in position is the friction of the rubber seals. When you release the brakes the pressure is released but they don't retract that few thousands of an inch they need and are still rubbing significantly enough to cause heat, which expands everything causing more pressure and more heat, until the rotors warp, then the high part of the rotation makes more heat. My theory is that the heat wears away the pads rapidly until rubbing decreases back to normal and the rotors cool off and straighten out and everything is OK, until you press on the brakes again, then the whole process repeats. With front brakes, you can usually smell them buring, in addition to feeling the steering wheel shake. The reason the pistons don't retract a few thousanths of an inch is because when they were previously all the way extended, when your old pads were thin, dirt and road grime and dirty water got in, despite the rubber boot cover, and messed up the outside part of the piston that was external to the seal. Then when you forced the piston all the way back in to allow room for the new pads to be installed, you make that crusty part of the piston now come into contact with the rubber seal, and it doesn't slide too well. The solution is to install new or rebuilt calipers, or rebuild the ones you have. I used to get a rebuild kit for a few bucks. It included a new seal and dirt boot. To rebuild a caliper.............remove the caliper from the wheel suspension but keep the hose connected. Pump the brakes until the piston is pushed all of the way out. At this point brake fluid will probably be leaking out all over. Now disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and remove the caliber completely. Pull out the piston. Completely pull out the dirt boot and discard it. Reach inside the bore with a little screw driver or knife and remove the seal. Using one of those small three stone rotary hones that fits on a drill, and using brake fluid as a libricant, clean up the inside of the cylinder. Clean everything, and install the new seal using brake fluid as a lubricant. Now take the piston and get it all clean and smooth. I use a wire wheel if the piston is metal (I've seen plastic ones (a hard plastic similar to bakelite). After it's clean on the outside, polish it smooth (I use a buffing wheel and rouge). Then clean the piston with brake fluid. When everyhting is clean and smooth, using brake fluid as a lubricant, install the piston all the way into the cylinder. This is sometimes hard to do, Try turning the piston to get it past the seal. I once had one that just would not get past the seal. I ended up making the radius of the back edge of the piston larger using the grinding wheel and buffing wheel. After the piston is in, install the dirt boot over the piston, install the caliper assembly back on the car, and connect the brake hose. Bleed the air out by having someone pump the brakes, or use a hand vacuum pump with the little sealed container that usually comes with them. You should have no more problems until the next time you re-seat the piston without cleaning it Good luck "cosza" <costa@cae.com> wrote in message news:d558n0$pka$1@dns3.cae.ca...>I changed my front disks and pads 2 years ago and now they are warped . >Also had a seized caliper. So I changed them again. 3 weeks later I get >vibration again once in a while. . I know that these disks are pressed fit >, has anybody else have issues with this generation Accord front brakes.>
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Jim Beam 9 August 2005 08:32:21 [ permanent link ]
	Wayne L wrote:> I've had this problem on several of the cars I've owned. The problem was > caused by just pushing the pistons all the way back in with a c-clamp or > whatever, and installing the new pads. Sometimes you can get away with > this, and sometimes you don't. The main thing holding the pistons in > position is the friction of the rubber seals. When you release the brakes > the pressure is released but they don't retract that few thousands of an > inch they need and are still rubbing significantly enough to cause heat, > which expands everything causing more pressure and more heat, until the > rotors warp, then the high part of the rotation makes more heat. My theory > is that the heat wears away the pads rapidly until rubbing decreases back to > normal and the rotors cool off and straighten out and everything is OK, > until you press on the brakes again, then the whole process repeats. With > front brakes, you can usually smell them buring, in addition to feeling the > steering wheel shake. binding is indeed caused by the pistons not retracting far enough, but the "warping" is much more likely incorrect lug not torque procedure. The reason the pistons don't retract a few thousanths of an inch is because > when they were previously all the way extended, when your old pads were > thin, dirt and road grime and dirty water got in, despite the rubber boot > cover, and messed up the outside part of the piston that was external to the > seal. Then when you forced the piston all the way back in to allow room for > the new pads to be installed, you make that crusty part of the piston now > come into contact with the rubber seal, and it doesn't slide too well. mostly. yes, crud fouls up the workings, but the real reason why the pistons retract on a correctly functioning system is because of a small ramp on the cylinder wall. \| \| __ / \| \|\|----\|\| ^ \|\| C \|\| \| \|\|____\|\| ____ \| \| \| A \| \| B where A is the cylinder, B the piston & C the seal. in this case, the piston would be squeezed upwards by hydraulic pressure. the piston doesn't slide against the seal in normal application of pressure, just wear, so pressure will deform the seal into the ramped area at the top of the cylinder seal groove. when pressure is released, the elasticity of the seal from the ramp will move the piston back to resting position. what happens when the system gets full of crud is that the groove gets full of dust & corrosion, etc. and so the seal doesn not have anywhere to spring into, and thus nowhere to spring back from. The solution is to install new or rebuilt calipers, or rebuild the ones you > have. I used to get a rebuild kit for a few bucks. It included a new seal > and dirt boot. rebuild is simple & cheap. need the right hose clamp to prevent excess fluid loss and the correct hydraulic grease for reassembly, but fllow tegger's faq's on caliper rebuilds & you'll be just fine. To rebuild a caliper.............remove the caliper from the > wheel suspension but keep the hose connected. Pump the brakes until the > piston is pushed all of the way out. At this point brake fluid will > probably be leaking out all over. Now disconnect the brake hose from the > caliper and remove the caliber completely. Pull out the piston. > Completely pull out the dirt boot and discard it. Reach inside the bore > with a little screw driver or knife and remove the seal. Using one of > those small three stone rotary hones that fits on a drill, and using brake > fluid as a libricant, clean up the inside of the cylinder. Clean > everything, and install the new seal using brake fluid as a lubricant. Now > take the piston and get it all clean and smooth. with hondas, you need to be careful not to remove the chrome on the piston. removal leads to excess wear and accelerated corrosion. unless you live in the rust belt, rubbing the piston on a piece of wood removes rubber gums & general sticky crud. if rust is severe, consider piston replacement. they are purchasable separately. I use a wire wheel if the > piston is metal (I've seen plastic ones (a hard plastic similar to > bakelite). After it's clean on the outside, polish it smooth (I use a > buffing wheel and rouge). Then clean the piston with brake fluid. When > everyhting is clean and smooth, using brake fluid as a lubricant, install > the piston all the way into the cylinder. genuine silicone brake grease is a better lubricant. [don't use that silglyde garbage.] This is sometimes hard to do, > Try turning the piston to get it past the seal. I once had one that just > would not get past the seal. I ended up making the radius of the back edge > of the piston larger using the grinding wheel and buffing wheel. After the > piston is in, install the dirt boot over the piston, install the caliper > assembly back on the car, and connect the brake hose. Bleed the air out by > having someone pump the brakes, or use a hand vacuum pump with the little > sealed container that usually comes with them.> You should have no more problems until the next time you re-seat the piston > without cleaning it > Good luck> "cosza" <costa@cae.com> wrote in message news:d558n0$pka$1@dns3.cae.ca...> I changed my front disks and pads 2 years ago and now they are warped . >>Also had a seized caliper. So I changed them again. 3 weeks later I get >>vibration again once in a while. . I know that these disks are pressed fit >>, has anybody else have issues with this generation Accord front brakes.>>
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Accord 92 front brakes

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