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Yet another supension question!
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CarGuru > Honda > Yet another supension question! 15 April 2005 06:31:37

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Yet another supension question!

TeGGer® 15 April 2005 04:08:31
 Did an oil change today. While I was under there, I had a good look at the
fasteners I will be rquired to attack when I eventually do the suspension
bushings.

Everything appears straightforward, except for one item: The inboard-most
bolt on the lower control arm.

The nut for that bolt is surrounded by a sort of strut or bracket that is
welded to the crossmember. This bracket surrounds the nut too closely to be
able to get even a thinwall socket on.

Am I correct in assuming that this nut is solidly mounted and will not
rotate as I turn the bolt head? There are no spot welds on the nut.

Also looks like I'm going to have to hammer out the bolt that goes thru the
bottom of the shock fork. After 14 years, it's gotta be rusted solid to its
control arm bushing's inner sleeve.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hond­afaq/
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Elle 15 April 2005 06:12:45 permanent link ]
 "TeGGer®" <tegger@tegger.c0m>­ wrote> Did an oil change today. While I was under there, I had a good look at the> fasteners I will be rquired to attack when I eventually do the suspension> bushings.>
Everything appears straightforward, except for one item: The inboard-most> bolt on the lower control arm.>
The nut for that bolt is surrounded by a sort of strut or bracket that is> welded to the crossmember. This bracket surrounds the nut too closely to
able to get even a thinwall socket on.>
Am I correct in assuming that this nut is solidly mounted and will not> rotate as I turn the bolt head? There are no spot welds on the nut.

All three nuts screwing onto the three bolts of each of the (rear) lower
control arms of my 1991 Civic are welded in place.

The inboard-most bolts (on both sides) are the only ones on the lower
control arms with which I didn't have major problems. Sprayed them down with
PB Blaster. They broke free fine.
Also looks like I'm going to have to hammer out the bolt that goes thru
bottom of the shock fork. After 14 years, it's gotta be rusted solid to
control arm bushing's inner sleeve.

I don't think I ever got that bolt free. I unfastened the inboard-most bolt
and chiseled, ground, hacksawed the outboard bolt out. I replaced the lower
control arm and strut/shock assembly as a unit.

Why are you replacing these bushings?

I did one side. It wasn't worth it.


Add comment
Jim Beam 15 April 2005 06:31:37 permanent link ]
 TeGGer® wrote:> Did an oil change today. While I was under there, I had a good look at the > fasteners I will be rquired to attack when I eventually do the suspension > bushings.>
Everything appears straightforward, except for one item: The inboard-most > bolt on the lower control arm.>
The nut for that bolt is surrounded by a sort of strut or bracket that is > welded to the crossmember. This bracket surrounds the nut too closely to be > able to get even a thinwall socket on.>
Am I correct in assuming that this nut is solidly mounted and will not > rotate as I turn the bolt head? There are no spot welds on the nut.>
Also looks like I'm going to have to hammer out the bolt that goes thru the > bottom of the shock fork. After 14 years, it's gotta be rusted solid to its > control arm bushing's inner sleeve.>
the nut's captive - it won't move. just remove the bolt.

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CarGuru > Honda > Yet another supension question! 15 April 2005 06:31:37

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