you claim to be a diesel guy>> and yet you recommend to mix oils>> lmfao>>

you failed year 4>> go hydrotreat that>> lmfao>> where do ya get your thermal crack ?>>

lmfao>>

Information for PowerStroke owners>>

Click here for 6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information>>

Engine oil requirements>> The most common problem with Ford's 7.3 Direct Injection Turbo diesel>> is related to engine oil change interval and type of oil being used.>> It is critical for proper engine operation that the customer or>> technician servicing the vehicle check that the correct oil is being>> used. This engine uses a high pressure oil pump to operate the fuel>> injectors. Typical system pressures are 500 psi at idle, 1200 at 3300>> rpm in neutral, and 3600 psi at full load acceleration. Oil for the>> PowerStroke requires an anti-foaming agent to prevent the oil from>> aerating, which would result in poor fuel injector spray patterns and>> reduced power. Depending on vehicle usage, the anti-foaming agents are>> depleted in 3000-5000 miles.>>

The only oil recommended for the PowerStroke by Ford is Motorcraft>> Super Duty 15W40, 10W30. Each of these has the proper additives in>> them for use in a diesel engine including the anti-foaming agents. The>> 15W40 is recommended for normal climates, the 10W30 for temperatures>> below 20 degrees fahranheit. For temperatures below -10 degees, 5W-30>> is recommended. There are other oils, however, that do meet all the>> requirments for use in the PowerStroke. The specifications the owner>> needs to look for on the label are the API rating of CF-4/SH or>> CG-4/SH or higher. Some other oils with the correct ratings are:>>

Penzoil Long-Life 15W40>> Shell Rotella-T 15W40>> Chevron Delo 400 15W40, 10W30>> Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40>> Castrol Heavy-Duty 15W40>> Valvoline All-Fleet Plus or Cummins Premium Blue: 15W40>> Union 76 Guardol QLT 15W40>> Wal-Mart's Tech 2000 Universal 15W40>> Texaco Ursa Super Plus 15W40, 10W30>> Quaker State FCI Universal 15W40, 10W30>> Quaker State FCI HDX Plus 15W40>> Kendall Super-D 3 15W40, 10W30>> Kendall SHP Diesel 15W40>> Exxon XD-3 Extra 15W40>> Citgo Mystik Premium Fleet 15W40>> Citgo Mystik JT-8 15W40, 15W50, 10W30>> For those of you wishing to use synthetic oil, the only ones I have>> seen with the correct specs for the PowerStroke engine are:>>

Motorcraft Super All Season 0W-30 Semi Synthetic>> Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil>> Amsoil 15W40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil>> Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil>> Amsoil 10W-40 and 20W-50 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil>>

Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil>> Amsoil 15W40 Semi-Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Oil>> Mobil Delvac 1 High-Performance Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine>> Oil 5W40>> Quaker State 4X4 15W40 Synthetic Blend>> Shell Rotella SB (synthetic blend)>> Shell Rotella T 5W-40>> Royal Purple Synthetic 15W-40, 10W-30, 20W50>> Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Synthetic Blend 15W-40>> Conklin Convoy 15W-40, 20W-50>> Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5W-40 Synthetic>> Petro-Canada Duron XL 15W-40 Synthetic Blend>> Citgo Mystik SX-8 15W-40 Synthetic Blend>> Advantage Duragard Super HD 15W40>> If these are unavailable you can use a multi-grade synthetic>> designated CF for use in diesel engines along with an anti-foaming>> additive. Some synthetic oils with this rating are:>>

Mobil 1>> Castrol Syntec>> Valvoline SynPower>> Quaker State Syncron Ultra Performance>> Recommended anti-foaming additives are Fleetrite with the Navistar P/N>> CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888. These are primarilly used to counter the>> effects of silicone sealers on the anti-foaming agents in the oil or>> if the agents become depleted from use providing the oil is still>> servicable and uncontaminated. An anti-foaming additive could also be>> used between oil changes if an oil-related poor running condition is>> suspected, especially on a long trip.>> Under normal driving conditions the additive could extend the oil>> change interval to 6000 miles. For vehicles that are used for>> infrequent towing, using the additive at 3000 miles could extend the>> oil change interval to no longer than 5000 miles. Vehicles operated in>> dirty conditions, extreme weather conditions or constantly under heavy>> loads should stick to the 3000 mile service interval due to the other>> agents in the oil being depleted, and should only use the anti-foaming>> additive if performance problems occur between services.>> The refill for the crankcase is 14 quarts for 94-97's and 15 quarts>> for 98.5/99's with filter change. Some early 95 and older engines were>> equipped with a 12 quart dipstick (Navistar P/N 1820068C1) and need to>> be filled to just over the word "FULL", or replaced with the correct>> part (Navistar P/N 1824405C1; Ford P/N F4TZ-6750-E for F-series;>> F5UZ-6750-A for Econoline). Some later dipstick tubes were not seated>> properly causing the crankcase to be over-filled in an attempt to>> bring the level up to the mark.>> The oil filter for the PowerStroke (Motorcraft P/N FL1995) is longer>> than that of the previous Ford/Navistar diesel, and the old-style>> filter should not be used. Due to its seal design, the oil filter>> should be hand tightened, then turned an additional quarter-turn--or>> torqued to 20ft/lbs--with the oil filter wrench to prevent leaking.>> Fuel and air filters>> Another problem that arises, usually during wet weather, is the "water>> in fuel light" staying on. Diesel fuel attracts moisture, and>> unfortunatly water does most of the damage to a diesel's fuel system.>> Normaly the "water in fuel" light only comes on at cold starts when>> the water has had a chance to seperate from the fuel in the filter>> housing. If the water is not drained regularly, it will mix with the>> fuel due to the agitation caused by the fuel pump, and if there is>> enough water in the filter the light stays on. You should drain the>> fuel filter at least once a month, more if the weather is wet. On>> early 97 and older F-series the drain is accessed through the opening>> on the engine trim cover. The yellow drain lever can be seen at the 7>> o'clock position on the fuel filter housing. Turn the lever one>> quarter of a turn clockwise to open it. If the fuel does not drain,>> you may have to crank the engine over. On the late 97 F-series, the>> engine trim has been cut down, but the drain lever is in the same>> position as is the Econoline vans, but the vans need the air filter>> housing removed to access the drain. On the 99 PowerStroke engines,>> the drain has been moved to the ten o'clock position and is turned one>> quarter turn clockwise, and the key turned to the on position to allow>> the electric fuel pump to expell the fuel. 98.5 and newer Econolines>> have a cable attached to the filter drain, which is near the>> transmission dip stick. The fuel drains onto the front crossmember, so>> you may want to install a piece of hose at the end of the drain pipe>> to prevent messes.>> If the fuel becomes very contaminated, you'll want to change the>> filter. Some aftermarket filters have a square-cut o-ring seal instead>> of the lip type of the original [IMAGE]. I recommend using the Ford>> Motorcraft filters FD4595 for the 94-98 and FD4596 for the 98.5-2K or>> their Racor equivalents: IN F4595 and IN F4596. The WIX 33518/NAPA>> Gold 3518 used to be identical to these, but reciently they changed>> design (without changing part numbers) to a square cut lid seal and a>> weak grommet-like lower seal which tends to split. The fuel filter>> also has a pin in the top which opens a valve inside the filter>> housing standpipe. Some aftermarket filters have a shorter pin than>> necessary which results in the valve not opening completely and this>> can cause lack of power concerns. The fuel filter should be changed at>> 15,000 mile intervals.>> On the 97 and older, the filter housing cover can be removed using a>> large screwdriver to turn the cover by laying it across the cover and>> twisting against the ridges on the cover. The 99 fuel filter cover (as>> well as the earlier design) can be removed with a 4 inch oil filter>> wrench. On both types of filter housing, the new o-ring needs to be>> lubed with fuel or oil and installed onto the housing--not the>> cover--with the lip facing up.>> Do not use any fuel additive containing alcohol or ones that would>> allow water to pass through the fuel system to be burned off in the>> cylinders. The tolerances of the fuel injectors are so precise that>> this could cause damage and failure of the injectors from the lack of>> lubrication. Also using fuel not ment for highway use could cause>> damage to the injectors or the catalytic converter. Ford does have a>> fuel additive for use during break-in periods such as when the>> injectors are serviced, and is recommended for use any time fuel>> quality is in question; P/N F8AZ-9C077-AA. In cold weather conditions>> Stanadyne's Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner (P/N 29409[pt]).>> Above all, do not mix gasolene in with the diesel fuel. If you have an>> algae problem, there are fuel conditioners to correct this, too.>>

The larger F-series air filter (Motorcraft FA-1617) should be good for>> as long as the fuel filter, depending on dust conditions, but the>> Econoline (FA-1618), the 99 F-series (FA-1675) and 99.5 F-series>> (FA-1680) use a smaller filter (the E-van uses two). It would be a>> good idea to check the air filter(s) on these once a week in dusty>> conditions and replace them every other oil change, and to keep a>> spare. Or you could purchase an after market "washable" filter element>> such as those sold by K&N or Amsoil. When inspecting or replacing the>> air filter, inspect the filter housing drain and clean it as>> necessary.>>

Cooling system maintenance>> The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible>> for the coolant to cavitate--produce tiny bubbles--that can with time>> cause pin holes throught the cylinder walls from the water jackets.>> For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N>> DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means>> installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every>> 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with>> Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the>> level of DCA4 in the system, then you add the amount as required. The>> cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area>> with especialy alkiline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of>> coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of>> coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene>> glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol>> coolants in any of their vehicles.>> Antifreezes I can recommend:>>

Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze>> Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant>­> Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted 50/50>> Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant>­> Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with>> demineralized water)>> Zerex Heavy Duty Precharged Formula>> Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze>> Prestone Heavy Duty (black bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant with SCA>> Fleetguard Compleat EG--precharged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4>> Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level>> Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant-­-Low Silicate>> Peak Full Force or Advance>> FleetCharge Antifreeze/Coolant-­-precharged with Pencool>> 2002 model year trucks use any of the above if your truck came filled>> with green coolant. If it came from the factory with yellow coolant,>> only use Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze, Zerex G05 (gold bottle),>> Peak Global Extended Life (gold bottle) or Peak Extended Life CF-EXL>> (silver bottle). These coolants do not require SCA/DCA.>>

Trucks originally filled with Gold coolant:>> All 2002 F-Series built at the Kentucky Truck Plant (VIN 11th digit>> "E")>> 2002 F150-550 built in Cuautitlan (VIN "M") from 2-4-02>> 2002 F650/750 built in Cuautitlan from 1-28-02>> All Econolines built from 7-15-02>> Do not use extended life coolants (ELC) as they can cause water pump>> seal and injector sleeve deterioration.>>

Tips>> Do not use starting fluids for hard starting problems. With the glow>> plug system, starting fluids can ignite as the key is turned on>> causing engine damage. Keep your batteries and charging system in good>> condition, note any problems with the glow plug cycle, and if you>> experience a hard cold start problem, plug in the block heater, if>> your truck is equiped with one. This will heat the coolant enough to>> aid in starting. If you do experience hard starting, get you truck>> serviced as this condition could cause other system problems if left>> unrepaired, such as starter failure.>> Care should be taken when installing performance enhancing devises or>> "chips", or modifing any electronic engine component such as>> configuring the exhaust back pressure valve to act as an engine brake.>> This can cause driveability problems, "check engine" light to come on,>> and may affect your warrenty.>> If you truck has an automatic overdrive transmission and you tow,>> remember that there is no engine braking in overdrive. It is>> recommended that the overdrive be cancelled when towing in hilly areas>> to prevent accelerated brake and transmission wear and transmission>> overheating.>>

You may want to pick up some items to carry with you, especially for>> long trips:>> At least 2 quarts of the engine oil that you use. Don't mix two>> different oils, their chemical additives may not be compatable.>> A pint of the Fleetrite CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888 anti-foaming>> conditioner.>> A fuel filter; either a screwdriver or oil filter wrench to open the>> filter housing; 2 feet of 5/16 hose to attach to the filter drain and>> something to drain it into (ie, a coffee can).>> At least 2 pints of the F8AZ-9C077-AA fuel lubricity conditioner, or>> Stanadye Performance/All Season Fuel Conditioner.>> A pint of the FW-15/-16 DCA4 coolant conditioner.>> If you own an E-van or 99 F-series, air filter(s).>> An accessories drive (serpintine) belt--you may not be able to install>> it yourself, but at least you won't be stranded for lack of one.>> Some other non-essentials: An oil filter, 5 gallons of diesel, jumper>> cables, a CC2602A test kit for the DCA4, and an extension cord for the>> block heater.>>

Chances are, with as many of these engines out there, you'll come>> across another PowerStroke owner that carries some of these items if>> you are in need, but it's always good to be prepared when on a trip.>>

For general service and maintenance information and Check List for any>> vehicle click HERE>>

dieselmann's Store; Diesel Products and Supplies & Perfomance.>> Back to dieselmann's Page>> How the PowerStroke Injection system works>>

6.0 PowerStroke and Torqshift Information>>

Links to other sites on the 'Net>>

www.thedieselstop.c­om; (The Ford Diesel Website/Ford-Diesel­.com)>> information and discussion for Ford diesel owners>> InterMotive, INC.; Overdrive inverters for automatic transmissions and>> other devices>> International Truck and Engine (Navistar)>> Amsoil product information--lubric­ants and filters.>> Diesel Injector Service; For all of your diesel engine needs:>> Injection systems, filters, O-ring kits,>> accessories and fuel conditioners>>

PowerStroke Mail List;>> Information and discussion on 1999 and up Ford F Series Trucks & Ford>> Vans with the>> Ford/Navistar Power Stroke 7.3L Direct Injection Turbo diesel engine.>> Click to subscribe to PowerStroke mail list>>

Power Stroke Registry>> An organization for PowerStroke owners; quarterly publication>>

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