seems like an easy fix. Use a stage 2 very, cut in about #3 and max at #8 > but cut back so a whole lot doesn't get injected in.> I have the timing at 10, the standard.

I have been running water and/or alcohol inject on my KB blown '89 Mustang > for years. In a nutshell, yes it works, and it works very well. My advice > is to leave out the alcohol and just inject water. It takes very little > water to cool the intake air temperatures. Using water only will not > affect the air-fuel ratio and makes it easier to tune the engine, IMO. > Also, gasoline has a higher specific energy and per unit volume will > generate more horsepower. Additionally, water has a higher heat of > vaporization than alcohol so it is a more effective cooling liquid.>

On a KB blown car it helps to make the "on" point of the spray both boost > AND rpm dependent. This is due to the KBs providing full boost at a very > low rpm. Spraying too much water at a low rpm can bog the engine because > the water volume is too great for the the limited air flow. I use this > setup and find it works well on my car: http://www.smcenter­prises.com I > know the guy that owns SMC and he is great to work with. I don't hesitate > to recommend him, and his product, to anyone. Just be sure to tell him > you plan to run only water. He will use a pump that is designed for > water. Typically, the turbo Buick guys run only alcohol so he uses a pump > for them that will rust when water is present.>

Just to let you know how effective water injection can be, I ran 16 psi > with it and it worked very well. The problem I had was that on a stock > 302 block the heads would lift at this pressure and it made the engine > very prone to blowing head gaskets. If I had a better block I don't doubt > that 16 psi, or more, is within reach. I backed the boost down to 12 psi > and am able to run a very aggressive tune for that level of boost. It > will take a little patience to get the water injection dialed in right but > once you do you will love it.>

One last thing, water injection can actually cool the intake air to BELOW > ambient temperature. Try doing this with a standard air-air or air-water > intercooler. ­

about where are your spray-on set points, RPM and/or boost ?> like the RPM would have to be about 1800 AND the boost would have to be > about 2# or greater?

I did some design work with cooling buildings with spray water/filters, > (upgraded type of swamp coolers) and I know it can cool down to within about > 5 degrees of the due point, (up the humidity tto 85-95%) so in Texas summer > day it can be 100 degrees out, but the due point is at 73 degrees, so it can > cool down to about 78, that is 22 degrees below ambient. Phoenix is even > better. Seems like water injection is just better than the intercoolers, > except one has to carry water tank, but that's easy.

found this out there too;> http://forums.nasio­c.com/forums/archive­/index.php/f-145.htm­l> some of them little rice burners are running 22 pounds with water/alcohol > injection

You're telling me it's normal to have detonation at 5psi under > routine driving conditions? And the only way to fix it is with water > injection?

I've never owned a KB, but I have owned and driven other forced > induction applications. 8-10psi was normal before detonation on those > vehicles.

You're telling me it's normal to have detonation at 5psi under routine > driving conditions? And the only way to fix it is with water injection?> I've never owned a KB, but I have owned and driven other forced > induction applications. 8-10psi was normal before detonation on those > vehicles.

Now that must have been a thrill ride. ­>

Maybe I stressed the term "hard to tune" a little too much. They are > different and it takes someone that understands the power delivery of a > twin screw blower to get it right. The reason I think most people would > prefer a twin screw over a centrifugal, and even a turbo to a lesser > extent, is the way it delivers power. If you were put in a car with a > twin screw blower and couldn't hear the blower whine you would be very > hard pressed to tell if there was a blown smaller engine or a large > displacement V-8 under the hood. There is absolutely no throttle lag, big > power surge like a centrifugal or turbo can create anywhere in the rpm > range. You can also modulate the power very precisely with the throttle > just like you can with the large displacement V-8.>

Basically, it is the torque curve that hooks most KB users. I can be > rolling along in third gear at 2000 rpm and roll into the throttle and it > will immediately set me back in the seat and accelerate to redline in a > rush with absolutely no power lag or surge. I can enjoy the additional > power from a KB in any gear and at any rpm. This isn't true for a > centrifugal. I guess the same kind of feel can be had from a Root's > blower but they are much less efficient than a twin screw. Lastly, twin > screws are as durable as Root's blowers and can typically last the life of > the engine.>

As I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the new KB kits for the 4.6L > engines are great. KB has taken all the hassles out of installing and > running the blower. They give you everything needed from new injectors, > fuel pump boosters, custom tuned chips etc. right in the box. Plus, KB > really stands behind their products and R&Ds every kit they sell very > heavily. They won't sell it until it is ready. So all the above is why I > think the KB kits are so popular.