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Re: 2004 Ram - Cummins - Funky smell
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CarGuru > Dodge > Re: 2004 Ram - Cummins - Funky smell 7 April 2005 22:58:07

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Re: 2004 Ram - Cummins - Funky smell

TBone 1 April 2005 21:39:14
 

"Tom Lawrence" <tNlOaSwPrAeMnMcIeN­5G@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:fDe3e.1760$44.­1299@newsread1.news.­atl.earthlink.net...­> > I thought that perhaps that was it, but unless I am mistaken, the new> > common rail engine has a redesigned blow-by system, where the oil gets> > recycled back into the oil pan. That being the case, is there still a> > way for it leak out?>
There is. There's a black plastic tube, about 3/4" OD or so, sticking
down> from the engine. This is the vent tube for anything that the> "new-and-improved" blowby system misses. Mine emits a fine mist from time> to time. Not enough to drip on the the ground, but enough to ensure
nothing> in it's vicinity will ever suffer from surface rust :)­


But that is considered a feature, not a problem :-)­

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving


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Big Al 1 April 2005 23:38:50 permanent link ]
 
<craig@metronet.com­> wrote in message
news:1112370481.616­987.144190@o13g2000c­wo.googlegroups.com.­..>
Jay wrote:>> Maybe it was something as simple as he was back up a hill, and some> oil went>> out the blow-by tube getting on the exhaust?>
I thought that perhaps that was it, but unless I am mistaken, the new> common rail engine has a redesigned blow-by system, where the oil gets> recycled back into the oil pan. That being the case, is there still a> way for it leak out?>
I had a hard time making up my mind on whether to get a manual or auto.> Since I pull boat/pwc, given this stinky situation, me thinks I should> have opted for the six speed. However, it sure is nice having that> auto in Dallas Central Expressway (75) traffic ...>
Craig C.

Craig,

I have an 04 six speed. Driving around empty it's a pain in the butt. An
automatic would have been a much better choice if that was all I did. I tow
a race car all over the place and just didn't trust the automatic. An
automatic would have been a hell of a lot easier to find too. Had to go 1500
miles to buy mine.

Al


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Tom Lawrence 2 April 2005 04:02:24 permanent link ]
 
Face it, the smell resulted from a hot autotrans. I installed a BD "2 Low > kit" on mine.

Right - but this isn't possible on an '04 (or an '03, for that matter)...
no more CAD.


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Nosey 2 April 2005 05:36:10 permanent link ]
 Tom Lawrence wrote:>> Face it, the smell resulted from a hot autotrans. I installed a BD>> "2 Low kit" on mine.>
Right - but this isn't possible on an '04 (or an '03, for that> matter)... no more CAD.

For those of us with older trucks this can be done easily with inexpensive
parts. For the how-to see:
http://www.vtlink.n­et/users/joespond/me­dia/miker2x4lo.htm


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Det 2 April 2005 08:02:55 permanent link ]
 Please bring me up to date here, Tom. What is a "CAD"?

"Tom Lawrence" <tNlOaSwPrAeMnMcIeN­5G@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:kil3e.12793$S4­6.4898@newsread3.new­s.atl.earthlink.net.­..>> Face it, the smell resulted from a hot autotrans. I installed a BD "2 Low >> kit" on mine.>
Right - but this isn't possible on an '04 (or an '03, for that matter)... > no more CAD.>


Add comment
Tom Lawrence 2 April 2005 10:49:41 permanent link ]
 
Please bring me up to date here, Tom. What is a "CAD"?

Central Axle Disconnect. The passenger-side axle is actually in two pieces,
and inner and outer section. The CAD is a device that slides a locking
collar to couple the two shafts together, or disconnect them. When
disconnected, the passenger front wheel/hub just spins the outer shaft. The
driver's side wheel/hub spins the left axle shaft, which in turn spins the
side and spider gears of the front differential, but the front driveshaft
isn't spinning. The operation of the CAD, in stock configuration, is
controlled via engine vacuum, switched through a vacuum switch in the
transfer case. When shifted into 4WD (either high or low), vacuum is
applied to the CAD motor, which makes the collar move, and the front axle
engages.

The 2WD low conversions separate the transfer case and front axle
operations, so that you can engage the transfer case into low range, but
leave the front axle disconnected, leaving your vehicle in 2WD. In this
operation, the front driveshaft is turning along with the rear driveshaft,
but since the passenger-side axle isn't connected, you can make sharp turns
without binding up the driveline. This isn't an option on the 3rd gen
trucks, becuase their front axles are solid one-piece units, and therefore
always engaged.


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Det 3 April 2005 02:53:57 permanent link ]
 Tom, thanks for the very detailed and clear explanation on "CAD".

"Tom Lawrence" <tNlOaSwPrAeMnMcIeN­5G@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:9gr3e.13024$S4­6.8586@newsread3.new­s.atl.earthlink.net.­..>> Please bring me up to date here, Tom. What is a "CAD"?>
Central Axle Disconnect. The passenger-side axle is actually in two > pieces, and inner and outer section. The CAD is a device that slides a > locking collar to couple the two shafts together, or disconnect them. > When disconnected, the passenger front wheel/hub just spins the outer > shaft. The driver's side wheel/hub spins the left axle shaft, which in > turn spins the side and spider gears of the front differential, but the > front driveshaft isn't spinning. The operation of the CAD, in stock > configuration, is controlled via engine vacuum, switched through a vacuum > switch in the transfer case. When shifted into 4WD (either high or low), > vacuum is applied to the CAD motor, which makes the collar move, and the > front axle engages.>
The 2WD low conversions separate the transfer case and front axle > operations, so that you can engage the transfer case into low range, but > leave the front axle disconnected, leaving your vehicle in 2WD. In this > operation, the front driveshaft is turning along with the rear driveshaft, > but since the passenger-side axle isn't connected, you can make sharp > turns without binding up the driveline. This isn't an option on the 3rd > gen trucks, becuase their front axles are solid one-piece units, and > therefore always engaged.>


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Guest 4 April 2005 19:11:58 permanent link ]
 
without binding up the driveline. This isn't an option on the 3rd
trucks, becuase their front axles are solid one-piece units, and
therefore> always engaged.


Other than finding a different storage facility, where I don't have to
reverse uphill while jumping a curb, what would be my option? I was
really hoping for a solution like the one you responded to ...

I guess I could always keep going like I am and let the extended
warranty take care of the damage this will cause over time. :)­


Craig C.

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Tom Lawrence 5 April 2005 04:16:05 permanent link ]
 
Other than finding a different storage facility, where I don't have to> reverse uphill while jumping a curb, what would be my option? I was> really hoping for a solution like the one you responded to ...

Well, you could remove your front driveshaft... :)­

In all probability, you aren't hurting your transmission. Since you seem to
tow frequently, I'd put in a transmission temperature gauge, and make sure I
didn't run it up much over 180°F while hauling, and not over 200-210°F when
backing up. They're easy enough to put in, and run about $45 (not including
the mount - of which there are plenty of options). At least this will
eliminate the guessing.


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Guest 5 April 2005 18:43:45 permanent link ]
 
In all probability, you aren't hurting your transmission. Since you
seem to> tow frequently, I'd put in a transmission temperature gauge, and make
sure I> didn't run it up much over 180°F while hauling, and not over
200-210°F when> backing up. They're easy enough to put in, and run about $45 (not
including> the mount - of which there are plenty of options). At least this
will> eliminate the guessing.


I'll take a gander at the available gauges. As a side note, I looked
up, yesterday, what all would be involved in changing the fuel filter
since it is time for me to do it. Many different posts about it ...
all of which seemed awfully over-complicated.

Perhaps I did something wrong, but it took me about 3 minutes. Drained
a bit of fuel out, (about 3 tablespoons), unscrewed the top, pulled out
the old filter, removed the old gasket, put on the new filter and
gasket, screwed it back together, bumped the stater and started the
truck. All done.

Did I miss something? :)­

Changed the air filter too. Seems to be more responsive this morning.


Craig C.

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Tom Lawrence 6 April 2005 06:46:15 permanent link ]
 
I'll take a gander at the available gauges. As a side note, I looked> up, yesterday, what all would be involved in changing the fuel filter> since it is time for me to do it. Many different posts about it ...> all of which seemed awfully over-complicated.

One of the easiest things to do.... I don't know why some people complicate
it, either...
Did I miss something? :)­

As long as you remembered to lube the new O-ring with a little diesel fuel,
nope - you didn't miss a thing. Can you believe some people charge over
$100 to do that?


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Guest 6 April 2005 20:04:18 permanent link ]
 Tom Lawrence wrote:
As long as you remembered to lube the new O-ring with a> little diesel fuel, nope - you didn't miss a thing. Can> you believe some people charge over $100 to do that?


Actually, I used motor oil instead of diesel.

For your viewing pleasure:

http://homepage.mac­.com/mcraigchr/Photo­Album34.html

(it's pics of my truck ... get your mind out of the gutter).


;)
Craig C.

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William Boyd 7 April 2005 05:57:46 permanent link ]
 craig@metronet.com wrote:
Tom Lawrence wrote:>
As long as you remembered to lube the new O-ring with a>>little diesel fuel, nope - you didn't miss a thing. Can>>you believe some people charge over $100 to do that?>
Actually, I used motor oil instead of diesel.>
For your viewing pleasure:>
(it's pics of my truck ... get your mind out of the gutter).>
;)> Craig C.>

Looks like you did not get the tow mirrors either, cost me around
$350. to add them. I like my lighter color but should have got the
4WD. Nice looking.

--
BILL P.
Just Dog
&
ME
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Ken Bosch 7 April 2005 22:29:02 permanent link ]
 On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 20:57:46 -0500, William Boyd
<williamboyd@direcw­ay.com> wrote:
For your viewing pleasure:>>
(it's pics of my truck ... get your mind out of the gutter).
Craig C.>>
Looks like you did not get the tow mirrors either, cost me around >$350. to add them. I like my lighter color but should have got the >4WD. Nice looking.

Bill,

My truck didn't have the tow mirrors either. I negotiated to include
the mirrors or no sale. The sales guy wrote it up and I bought the
truck. I found out later that he had to eat the cost of the mirrors
($350) + installation ($425). :-o
They also gave me the original standard mirrors. :-D­
Anybody out there need a new set of standard mirrors for an '04 Dodge
Ram?


Southern California's Four Seasons:
Earthquake, Mudslide, Brushfire, and Riot
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CarGuru > Dodge > Re: 2004 Ram - Cummins - Funky smell 7 April 2005 22:58:07

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