It has potential.>

First off, there are a BILLION (with a B) settings in not only the> Player file, but in the wheel control files. Now all some one has to> do is write a manual for it ­>

Now, as for car handling...>

I spent 5 hours on the Las Vegas setup. So much for the Sunday> Chores ­> Here are a few tips:>

* Get RID of any Sterring Sensitivity settings you may have set. Set> it for 50, which is neutral (dammit, I can't cough up the word for> this I'm looking for).>

* The factory provided race setup is SO screwed up in SO many ways,> it's hard to know where to start. You need to adjust EVERYTHING.>

* The weight is way too far forward. You gotta crank it back quite a> bit.> * The Wedge is loading the RF too much. Remove some Wedge.>

* The Track Bars are close, but you'll need to drop them after> adjusting the weight. Use an equal amount of drop to settle the car> after you get the weight jacked right, then adjust the split to get> the car to turn in the way you like.>

* Tire pressures are close, but need tweaking.>

* Camber, especialy the left front, is way off. It needs to be> cranked up a lot. Since we don't know yet what the sim 'wants' as> far as tire temps, I went with a basic (I-M-O) of 10 degree steps. For > example I=220, M=210. O=200 on the RF.>

* The way the camber, tire pressures and weights are set in the> provided race setup, the LF might as well be off the ground. It is> providing almost NO grip to the race car.>

* The standard settings for the Race Setup proficed has the front end> (particularly the RF) loaded beyond belief. This is why the car, out> of the box (so to say) heads for the wall at every turn. I can't> believe they released the setup with SO much weight jacked towards> the front, particularly the RF, and then hosed the pressures and> camber on top of that.> * Watch your front springs. Don't go below 650 on either. If you> find yourself launching for the wall all of a sudden just before the> apex, and don't understand why, it's because you are BOTTOMING OUT! The > sound is so screwed up in the Demo that you can't hear this when> it happens, but it is there!>

I have not gotten around to tweaking the shocks, etc. I've been> concentrating on getting the car turning and stable, THEN I'll go> after speed. I did pull out the LF Fender to get the LF working. I> might back off on that after further testing.>

Now, as for the controller....>

I do NOT like the way FF in this SIM works. I've learned a little> better what it is trying to tell me, but there are serious problems> (at least with the MSFFW). You can increase the FF level to increase> the sensation, but unfortunately it also GREATLY increases the spring> tension and wipes out any benefit. The net effect is zero improvment> and some seriously tired arms ­> There are a billion (with a b) adjustments in the Wheel Config> Templates that come with the game and I can only hope someone will> document it and there is a setting to change this.>

Finally, I've noticed that many (most_) of the settings in the plr> and other settings files are not being used by the game in it's demo> fashion. There are a bunch of mirror settings beyond what has> already been mentioned on RAS (though the one to turn off car> interference and the magnification were superb changes and made the> mirror very useful). You can control the position (needed since the> POV doesn't position the mirror right), height, width, etc... but> none of them (except the one's mentioned above) seem to be operable> right now.> Same for graphics, sound, etc. In the sound section there are far> more adjustments than the game interface presents (I sure hope that> is fixed in the release). Namely, the ability to change the car's> engine volume AND the ratio of other cars to yours as far as volume. That > will help the sound problems a lot.>

The sounds=16 don't work for me.>

That's it for now. I hope this setup helps others enjoy the demo a> lot more than it is as downloaded. It sure has breathed a little> hope into me ­> I can attach the setup here if everyone promises not to kill me for> it. It's only 2 K ­>

-Larry

(ROFLMAO) where'd you get that demo? mine has KS...>

Larry enlightened us with:>> Ok... Let me start with this.>>

See what these cookie-cutter tracks do to us! Like Mikey, we end up at

wrong damned track!>

-Larry

"Larry" <none@none.com> wrote in message> news:HTaJd.22969$EG­1.2869@lakeread04...­> : Ok... Let me start with this.> :> : It has potential.> :> : First off, there are a BILLION (with a B) settings in not only the > Player> : file, but in the wheel control files. Now all some one has to do is > write> a> : manual for it ­> :> : Now, as for car handling...> :> : I spent 5 hours on the Las Vegas setup. So much for the Sunday Chores > ­> :> : Here are a few tips:> :> : * Get RID of any Sterring Sensitivity settings you may have set. Set it> for> : 50, which is neutral (dammit, I can't cough up the word for this I'm> looking> : for).> :> : * The factory provided race setup is SO screwed up in SO many ways, it's> : hard to know where to start. You need to adjust EVERYTHING.> :> : * The weight is way too far forward. You gotta crank it back quite a > bit.> :> : * The Wedge is loading the RF too much. Remove some Wedge.> :> : * The Track Bars are close, but you'll need to drop them after > adjusting> : the weight. Use an equal amount of drop to settle the car after you get> the> : weight jacked right, then adjust the split to get the car to turn in the> way> : you like.> :> : * Tire pressures are close, but need tweaking.> :> : * Camber, especialy the left front, is way off. It needs to be cranked > up> a> : lot. Since we don't know yet what the sim 'wants' as far as tire temps, > I> : went with a basic (I-M-O) of 10 degree steps. For example I=220, M=210.> : O=200 on the RF.> :> : * The way the camber, tire pressures and weights are set in the provided> : race setup, the LF might as well be off the ground. It is providing> almost> : NO grip to the race car.> :> : * The standard settings for the Race Setup proficed has the front end> : (particularly the RF) loaded beyond belief. This is why the car, out of> the> : box (so to say) heads for the wall at every turn. I can't believe they> : released the setup with SO much weight jacked towards the front,> : particularly the RF, and then hosed the pressures and camber on top of> that.> :> : * Watch your front springs. Don't go below 650 on either. If you find> : yourself launching for the wall all of a sudden just before the apex, > and> : don't understand why, it's because you are BOTTOMING OUT! The sound is > so> : screwed up in the Demo that you can't hear this when it happens, but it > is> : there!> :> : I have not gotten around to tweaking the shocks, etc. I've been> : concentrating on getting the car turning and stable, THEN I'll go after> : speed. I did pull out the LF Fender to get the LF working. I might > back> : off on that after further testing.> :> : Now, as for the controller....> :> : I do NOT like the way FF in this SIM works. I've learned a little > better> : what it is trying to tell me, but there are serious problems (at least> with> : the MSFFW). You can increase the FF level to increase the sensation, > but> : unfortunately it also GREATLY increases the spring tension and wipes out> any> : benefit. The net effect is zero improvment and some seriously tired > arms> ­> :> : There are a billion (with a b) adjustments in the Wheel Config Templates> : that come with the game and I can only hope someone will document it and> : there is a setting to change this.> :> : Finally, I've noticed that many (most_) of the settings in the plr and> other> : settings files are not being used by the game in it's demo fashion. > There> : are a bunch of mirror settings beyond what has already been mentioned on> RAS> : (though the one to turn off car interference and the magnification were> : superb changes and made the mirror very useful). You can control the> : position (needed since the POV doesn't position the mirror right), > height,> : width, etc... but none of them (except the one's mentioned above) seem > to> be> : operable right now.> :> : Same for graphics, sound, etc. In the sound section there are far more> : adjustments than the game interface presents (I sure hope that is fixed > in> : the release). Namely, the ability to change the car's engine volume AND> the> : ratio of other cars to yours as far as volume. That will help the sound> : problems a lot.> :> : The sounds=16 don't work for me.> :> : That's it for now. I hope this setup helps others enjoy the demo a lot> more> : than it is as downloaded. It sure has breathed a little hope into me ­> :> : I can attach the setup here if everyone promises not to kill me for it.> : It's only 2 K ­>

Great post, Larry. I too spent a ton of time yesterday on a Kansas setup.> My best so far is 30.486, but I feel like there's more that can be done as > I> think my entry into turn 1 can be improved.>

FYI, couple of pointers from Bob Stanley, while he said he hasn't actually> tried the demo, he did suggest starting with a Jasper setup from NR2003, > and> setting both front and rear tow out to 1/8".>

Not seeing it anywhere.>

Can you e-mail it to me at davegf18@hotmail.co­m

Is Cox Cable blocking Newsgroup attachments ?>

-Larry

"Larry" <none@none.com> wrote in message > news:B0LJd.42067$jn­.11658@lakeread06...­>>I uploaded the setup to a reply. Now whether it shows up or not is >>another problem.>>

The setups are just text files with a .svm extension, just copy and past > it in a post then anyone who wants it can copy and past it to a new text > file, name it what they like and change the extension to .svm>