I have come to realise that if water had got into the engine then> attempting to restart it was not a wise move, is this correct? The> breakdown guy never warned about this when getting me to turn ignition> over for quite long periods of time (I was pausing every 10s or so as> not to burn out starter). Should he of warned about this? Am not sure> what he was doing in the engine compartment while I was turning the> ignition over.It was still "sparking" apparently, a good sign I think,> what does this mean?>

With all the starting the battery went flat (battery not so good) and> car was towed home. Now how do I prepare to try and restart the car,> bearing in mind its already been turned over quite a bit? Should I> drain the oil first? Oil on dipstick does seem a bit watery on the> finger although I am no expert. Oil level on dipstick also seems to be> lower than when I checked it before the incident.Will it be necessary> to immediately change the filter too before attempting to restart it> or can I get away leaving it?>

Is the prognosis good or bad? Possible damage/remedy?>

"A J" <AJ@block> wrote in message>news:vsg261­1gfah2pq1rmq9fca1ai3­m7rbh8kr@4ax.com...>­> My old petrol 1.6 carb engine car CA16S engine went through a flooded>> road. It got through the flood but conked out after and wouldn't>> restart successfully. The car is all mechanical (no electronics as>> such, as far as I am aware)The breakdown guy came out and tried to get>> it to start.Trying to dry out parts with WD40 then turning starter>> motor over for long periods of time. The top of the engine seemed dry,>> but there was signs of water inside the air filter housing even though>> the inlet is pretty high and protected by splash guards. Can only>> think it must of been spray off the wheels, as the water was pretty>> bad but not really deep. The inlet is near one of the wheels, but>> still seem fairly protected.>>

Possible damage is an engine that is scrap, having ingested water. Your>breakdown geezer should have told you about that. First action now should be>to get a compression test carried out. Then come back and tell us the>results.>

Steve>

The guy from the breakdown should not have asked you to turn the engine

over>

Ok, I am that guy! (though probably not the actual one in this case!)>

When we get to a flood cut out, there are two possibilities.>

1) Water has entered the inlet, into the engine while it was running, the> engine is already dead. In this case turning it over will do no further> harm.>

2) Water hasn't entered the inlet, in this case the engine can be turned> over causing no harm.>

So you see, whatever the circumstances, by the time we get there, turning> the engine over will not cause any problem.>

Will an AA/RAC guy do a compression test, are they equipped/capable of> doing such a thing?>

Maybe somebody could give me some instructions to do a compression> test? What equipment from halfrauds would I need to buy.>

Doesn't the engine need to run first to do a compression test?>

I just> want to make sure I don't do any more damage by trying to restart it> if there is water inside the engine.>

Would a small amount of water> inside a engine really do much damage when starting it up? As I> thought it was the hot engine suddenly coming into contact with cold> water which caused the damage, rather than just the fact of water> getting inside.>

Ok, I am that guy! (though probably not the actual one in this case!)>

When we get to a flood cut out, there are two possibilities.>

1) Water has entered the inlet, into the engine while it was running, the> engine is already dead. In this case turning it over will do no further> harm.>

2) Water hasn't entered the inlet, in this case the engine can be turned> over causing no harm.>

So you see, whatever the circumstances, by the time we get there, turning> the engine over will not cause any problem.> if you are that guy then re read my post as i have already stated if > water had entered the engine during the run thriugh the puddle the damage > was already done before you arrived on scene, I also stated in capitals > "IF he was aware of water possibly being drawn into the engine" because he > might not have been told the full circumstances of the breakdown.

We wouldn't generally do a compression test at roadside, a compression > test> generally is only required to tell you if an engine is worn out, and has> lower than normal compression.> Flood damaged engines will generally have no compression whatsoever (in > the> case of holed pistons etc) which you can tell be ear, or be seized, which > is> pretty obvious to spot!>

A compression tester!! (yep, it really is that simple!) the gunsons cheapo> one will do for this job.>

To use, firstly, disconnect the ignition coil(low tension side).> remove a spark plug, screw in the tester, and attempt to start the engine,> holding the throttle wide open.> note the reading on the tester,> Repeat for all cylinders.> Important things to note, test must be done with sparkplugs fitted to the> cylinders not actually under test, and the throttle must be open while> turning.>

No, the test is done using the starter.> Make sure your battery is well charged.> The reading you will get can be expected to be somewhat lower that the> specification, as the spec will be for a hot engine, but it will give you > a> pretty good idea.> Tell me what car it is, and I will look up the pressure for you.> As an example. a 1600 sierra would be 12bar. though I wouldn't worry too> much if you got anything higher that 9bar on a cold engine.> The main thing to look for is for variation between the cylinders, e.g. if> you get 11,11,8,8, then the likely fault is a head gasket failure between > 3> and 4, or if you get 11,7,11,11. then number 2 has something wrong, etc.>

If your really worried, remove all the inlet pipework to dry it out, (no> need to refit it until after the compression test, if it is in the way of> access to the plugs etc), and remove all the sparkplugs before spinning > the> engine over on the starter motor for a few seconds (full throttle to allow> plenty of air through)>

We wouldn't generally do a compression test at roadside, a compression test>generally is only required to tell you if an engine is worn out, and has>lower than normal compression.>Flood damaged engines will generally have no compression whatsoever (in the>case of holed pistons etc) which you can tell be ear, or be seized, which is>pretty obvious to spot!>

A compression tester!! (yep, it really is that simple!) the gunsons cheapo>one will do for this job.>

To use, firstly, disconnect the ignition coil(low tension side).>remove a spark plug, screw in the tester, and attempt to start the engine,>holding the throttle wide open.>note the reading on the tester,>Repeat for all cylinders.>Importan­t things to note, test must be done with sparkplugs fitted to the>cylinders not actually under test, and the throttle must be open while>turning.>

No, the test is done using the starter.>Make sure your battery is well charged.>The reading you will get can be expected to be somewhat lower that the>specification, as the spec will be for a hot engine, but it will give you a>pretty good idea.>Tell me what car it is, and I will look up the pressure for you.>As an example. a 1600 sierra would be 12bar. though I wouldn't worry too>much if you got anything higher that 9bar on a cold engine.>The main thing to look for is for variation between the cylinders, e.g. if>you get 11,11,8,8, then the likely fault is a head gasket failure between 3>and 4, or if you get 11,7,11,11. then number 2 has something wrong, etc.>

If your really worried, remove all the inlet pipework to dry it out, (no>need to refit it until after the compression test, if it is in the way of>access to the plugs etc), and remove all the sparkplugs before spinning the>engine over on the starter motor for a few seconds (full throttle to allow>plenty of air through)>

Is there any danger in me simply just trying to see if it will> start/run now that I have charged up the battery fully? Or will an> oil change and/or compression test be necessary before attempting> this?

Do the RAC/AA/green flag guys carry a compression tester with them?> And one of those long spark plug remover tools? (As I think it> requires one). Is carrying out a compression test a one man job, ie> does the needle remain at the reading to give you a chance to look at> it, as hard to turn over motor and read gauge with bonnet it in way.

"A J" <AJ@block> wrote in message>news:ak9561­56qr3r4pe3nht2f49hh7­doctvuv0@4ax.com...>­> On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 14:47:40 +0000 (UTC), "SimonJ" <me@mine.net>>> wrote:>>

Yes they do and can>

Steve

And the long spark plug remover tool?

"A J" <AJ@block> wrote in message>news:d0c561­5oes3gfq2jnb7ksdvgtj­s0403muf@4ax.com...>­> On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 19:33:22 +0100, "Steev">> <steve251260NOSPAM@­hotmail.com> wrote:>>

Should,nt be a problem either.>

So you work as a patrolman for one of these AA/RAC/Green flag outfits> do u?

Yes I do.>

Steve>

Oh, Hi Steve (waves) who do you work for then?> I work for a garage in Blackpool, contracting to AA/RAC/green flag etc.>

The water can only get inside the engine oil 2 ways, either a little> splashing through the breather, which is not enough to worry about, it will> evaporate off when the engine gets hot, or it goes through the inlet, and is> forced past the rings, or through the piston. In this case, the engine is> dead, no need for an oil change!