Can I sort blogs by the age of their starters?
Oil grades
Hello Guest		   
  • Login
• Register…
• Start blog		   • Who, Where, When
• What is interesting here?
• Duels		   • Polls
• Avatars
• Interests		   • Cities and Countries
• Random blog
• Users search		   • Search
• Games
• Tests
• CarGuru		   • Ñîîáùåñòâà
• Talxy Chat
• Horoscope
• Online		  
Register!
CarGuru > Open discussion > Oil grades 14 April 2005 12:14:27
  Recent blog posts: 
95 mirage
I have a 95 mirage and this is the second time the injector in number 3 cylinder has gone bad. Anything…

1988 Ford F-150 Truck
I would like to remove the pollution control system from my 1988 F-150, 4.9L I6 300 4x4. Can anyone…

my 99 M chrysler has started to…
my 99 M chrysler has started to cool and then starts to give off heat in the ac vents and then cool…

dodge 2000 intrepid
bought this car right off the show room floor in Bartow fl to this date I have not had any work done on…

starting issue, 2002 dodge…
My 2002 Dodge Caravan wouldn't crank. I tested some things, replaced the battery. After installing the…

;-)
;-)­

stereo pin
I put a new battery in my girl friends 94 900 and it wants a code for the radio. There is nothing in the…

Coolant temp on Saturn Sky
I just purchased a 2007 Saturn Sky Redline. As I was driving yesterday I happen to have the info set on…

Saturn Sky Red Line
I just purchased a 2007 Saturn Sky Redline. I noticed will driving yesterday that when I turned on the…

Que pour la place trange
Que pour la place trange

  They have birthday today: 
Esther
  Forums:   
    topic feeds

• CarGuru  all topics, blogs and comments

• Driving

• Formula-1

• Indycar

• Nascar

• Other sport

• Technology

• 4 x 4

• Volkswagen

• Mercedes

• Acura

• Alfa-romeo

• Audi

• BMW

• Chrysler

• Dodge

• Ford

• General Motors

• Jeep Willys

• Honda

• Hyundai

• Mazda

• Nissan

• Peugeot

• Pontiac

• Porsche

• Saab

• Saturn

• Toyota

• Volvo

• Buy / Sell

• Open discussion

• Anonymous
  Discuss: 
1983 z28 camaro brake hose…
Help I am trying to replace the front brake hose on my 83 camaro I just bought it a week ago and also…

stuck hatchback
I have a 1999 Subaru Outback with a stuck hatchback. The remote opener seems to be functioning properly…

How to duplicate Navtech CD’s
Considering that Navtech doesn’t want to support further updates of the older CD format, I don’t see any…

air noise on a 2009 Gm Tahoe
2009 tahoe, driving at 42 miles an hour I get air noise, inside the vehicle. This is not engine noise I…

Hello
Hello!
  Recent forum topics: 
Brake Lights won't work
brake lights on 1996 Grand Am won't work. Fuse and lights are fine. Suggestions?

honda civic 87 model problem
i would like some information on why my honda civic wont start at times after its hot when running it…

mazda premacy glowplug lights…
i have a mazda premacy 2litre diesel . have a problem at the moment ,glowplug light flashing with loss…

I have a 96 chrysler new york…
I have a 96 chrysler new york lhs but no owners manuel and on the message center there is a light that i…
  Recent forum comments:
RE: Ask How To Replace Headlight…
how do I release the locking ring on the headlamp bulb in a 99 dodge ram 2500?

RE: Re: Transmission shudder when…
who are you speaking to

RE: Re: Transmission shudder when…
I can feel something like a kick when I first hit the gas pedal when I take off.

RE: stuck hatchback
on the rear gate that is

RE: stuck hatchback
just my latch is stuck and the door wont close on my 2000 sub outback limited

RE: 1999 Chrysler T&C - Speed…
I am reading all of this and am amazed at how bad I am getting ripped off by my Chrysler dealership....4…

RE: How to duplicate Navtech CD’s
where can i buy nav cd's for a 2003 s class mercedes also the latest version for a 2005 sl?

RE: Heating problem in 1988 Honda…
well thats no always true!!! my husband replaced the thermostat/thermome­ter..... and the water…

RE: Mitsubishi Diamante ECU faults…
how did you read the codes

RE: 98 Dodge Grand Caravan Problems
I had the same problem with the instrument panel, after about a months worth of greif, and dollars…
  Ìîäåðàòîð:
 Administrator

Oil grades

Petermcmillan Uk 13 April 2005 00:45:52
 I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally confused!
Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I haven't
really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to know a
lot about it.

One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people say
that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for certain
engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when warm
will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is
that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and
very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold and
the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?

Add comment
SteveH 13 April 2005 00:48:05 [ permanent link ]
 <petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com> wrote:
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally confused!> Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I haven't> really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to know a> lot about it.>
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people say> that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for certain> engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when warm> will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is> that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and> very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold and> the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?

Don't worry about it. The Sei will be happy with just about anything
that's 10W something.
--
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italianc­ar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300
VW Golf GL Cabrio - Alfa 75 TS - VW Passat 1.8T 20V SE - COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #
Add comment
Petermcmillan Uk 13 April 2005 00:54:20 [ permanent link ]
 
SteveH wrote:> <petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote:>
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally
confused!> > Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I
haven't> > really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to
know a> > lot about it.> >
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people
that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for
certain> > engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when
warm> > will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is> > that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and> > very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold
the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?>
Don't worry about it. The Sei will be happy with just about anything> that's 10W something.

It's not really for my Sei. It's just something I'd like to understand
really, and it will probably be useful when I get my next car. I think
I'm gonna stick with 10W40, or maybe go back to 15W40.

Add comment
Shazzbat 13 April 2005 01:31:54 [ permanent link ]
 
<petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113339260.720­663.222350@f14g2000c­wb.googlegroups.com.­..>
SteveH wrote:> > <petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote:> >
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally> confused!> > > Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I> haven't> > > really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to> know a> > > lot about it.> > >
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people> say> > > that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for> certain> > > engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when> warm> > > will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is> > > that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and> > > very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold> and> > > the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?> >
Don't worry about it. The Sei will be happy with just about anything> > that's 10W something.>
It's not really for my Sei. It's just something I'd like to understand

As I understand it, in the case of oil specified as 10W40, this means that
it's 10 grade oil when cold (W= Winter) so it's not too thick to circulate.
Then when it's warmed up the polymers come into play to make it 40grade oil,
ie it's thicker when hot than when cold. Don't ask me how they do that
though. Magic I expect.

Incidentally, looking at an oil application chart recently, I notice that
20W50 is rated for temps down to -10C, which we rarely see in UK, so since
it's cheaper nowadays due to being out of fashion, that's the oil for the
old bangers.

Steve


Add comment
Clive George 13 April 2005 01:39:50 [ permanent link ]
 "shazzbat" <shazzbat@spamlessn­ess.co.uk> wrote in message
news:d3heqg$k8k$1@n­ewsg3.svr.pol.co.uk.­..
As I understand it, in the case of oil specified as 10W40, this means that> it's 10 grade oil when cold (W= Winter) so it's not too thick to
circulate.> Then when it's warmed up the polymers come into play to make it 40grade
oil,> ie it's thicker when hot than when cold. Don't ask me how they do that> though. Magic I expect.

When you next change oil, compare the viscosity of the hot stuff running out
to the cold stuff you put in. You'll notice it doesn't get thicker, so there
isn't any need for any magic.

(however it doesn't get as thin as it might...)

cheers,
clive


Add comment
Chris Street 13 April 2005 01:44:31 [ permanent link ]
 On 12 Apr 2005 13:54:20 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:
SteveH wrote:>> <petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote:>>
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally> confused!>>> Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I> haven't>>> really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to> know a>>> lot about it.>>>
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people> say>>> that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for> certain>>> engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when> warm>>> will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is>>> that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and>>> very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold> and>>> the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?>>
Don't worry about it. The Sei will be happy with just about anything>> that's 10W something.>
It's not really for my Sei. It's just something I'd like to understand> really, and it will probably be useful when I get my next car. I think> I'm gonna stick with 10W40, or maybe go back to 15W40.

You should be using what the maker specifies and not guessing.

Oil grades come in varying numbers, so you get a 10 weight oil, 20 weight
etc. The acrual viscosity in centistokes is measured at a prescribed
temperature and that is a single straight oil. The oil grade is determined
by bearing clearances, shaft speeds, loading, desired film stability yadda
yadda. Forget why, just accept that a number is arrived at. This is the
grade needed when the engine is hot.

Now in winter an engine that wants say a 30 weight oil could find that it
gets so cold and viscous that it is too thick to start, and once started it
flows so slowly that bearings get oil starved. Consequently it needs a
thinner oil so it might have a 10 weight oil in winter.

Of course, that oil is too thin when the engine gets up to temperature,
epsecially in summer when the engine will run hotter.

So some bright spark came up with index improvers. These effectivly
increase the viscosity of the oil as it warms up. Hence you could start
with a cold 10 weight oil and as you warm it up it get *thinner* - it
*always* gets thinner, but the index improver additive means that it only
thins out to the same viscosity as a 30 weight oil would at operating
temperature.

Thats a 10W30 oil. It's cold viscosity is like a 10 grade oil would be and
it's hot viscosity is like a 30 grade oil would be. The W indicates the
Winter grade - a hangover from the days when people changed oil grades as
the seasons rolled round as the engines ran hotter or colder. Nowadays with
modern liquid cooled engines that's no longer an issue.

Added to this is a series of quality ratings. There are two to consider,
the API from the American Petroleum Institute and the ACEA from the
Association des Constructeurs Européens de l'Automobile.

API grades are S grades for petrol (Spark ignition) and C grades for diesel
(Compression ignition). The current best grade is SL (I think) with SJ
still "active" others are obselete.

ACEA has A grades for petrol and B for diesels, so you will see things like
A1/B1 for normal use, or A3/B3 for an oil suitable for a modern
turbodiesel.

If you look in the Sei's handbook I'll make a guess that they specify a
5W30 SL or ACEA A1/B1 oil. That is what you need.
Add comment
Chris Street 13 April 2005 01:51:05 [ permanent link ]
 On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 22:31:54 +0100, shazzbat wrote:
<petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote in message> news:1113339260.720­663.222350@f14g2000c­wb.googlegroups.com.­..>>
SteveH wrote:>>> <petermcmillan_uk@y­ahoo.com> wrote:>>>
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally>> confused!>>> > Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I>> haven't>>> > really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to>> know a>>> > lot about it.>>> >
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people>> say>>> > that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for>> certain>>> > engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when>> warm>>> > will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is>>> > that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and>>> > very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold>> and>>> > the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?>>>
Don't worry about it. The Sei will be happy with just about anything>>> that's 10W something.>>
It's not really for my Sei. It's just something I'd like to understand>
As I understand it, in the case of oil specified as 10W40, this means that> it's 10 grade oil when cold (W= Winter) so it's not too thick to circulate.> Then when it's warmed up the polymers come into play to make it 40grade oil,> ie it's thicker when hot than when cold.

Not quite. It always gets thinner as it warms up but the magic VI improvers
mean it only thins out to how a 40 weight oil *at high tmperture* would be,
rather than the 10 weight oil at high temperture.
Add comment
Petermcmillan Uk 13 April 2005 12:50:07 [ permanent link ]
 
Chris Street wrote:> On 12 Apr 2005 13:54:20 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:>
You should be using what the maker specifies and not guessing.>
Oil grades come in varying numbers, so you get a 10 weight oil, 20
weight> etc. The acrual viscosity in centistokes is measured at a prescribed> temperature and that is a single straight oil. The oil grade is
determined> by bearing clearances, shaft speeds, loading, desired film stability
yadda> yadda. Forget why, just accept that a number is arrived at. This is
grade needed when the engine is hot.>
Now in winter an engine that wants say a 30 weight oil could find
that it> gets so cold and viscous that it is too thick to start, and once
started it> flows so slowly that bearings get oil starved. Consequently it needs
thinner oil so it might have a 10 weight oil in winter.>
Of course, that oil is too thin when the engine gets up to
temperature,> epsecially in summer when the engine will run hotter.>
So some bright spark came up with index improvers. These effectivly> increase the viscosity of the oil as it warms up. Hence you could
start> with a cold 10 weight oil and as you warm it up it get *thinner* - it> *always* gets thinner, but the index improver additive means that it
only> thins out to the same viscosity as a 30 weight oil would at operating> temperature.>
Thats a 10W30 oil. It's cold viscosity is like a 10 grade oil would
be and> it's hot viscosity is like a 30 grade oil would be. The W indicates
Winter grade - a hangover from the days when people changed oil
grades as> the seasons rolled round as the engines ran hotter or colder.
Nowadays with> modern liquid cooled engines that's no longer an issue.>
Added to this is a series of quality ratings. There are two to
consider,> the API from the American Petroleum Institute and the ACEA from the> Association des Constructeurs Européens de l'Automobile.>
API grades are S grades for petrol (Spark ignition) and C grades for
diesel> (Compression ignition). The current best grade is SL (I think) with
still "active" others are obselete.>
ACEA has A grades for petrol and B for diesels, so you will see
things like> A1/B1 for normal use, or A3/B3 for an oil suitable for a modern> turbodiesel.>
If you look in the Sei's handbook I'll make a guess that they specify
5W30 SL or ACEA A1/B1 oil. That is what you need.

My handbook says 15W40, although when I asked at FIAT they assured me
that it was 10W40 even after I asked him whether he was sure. I used
15W40 at first, but I changed to 10W40 mainly because I could get it
MUCH cheaper, and I don't think it will kill my engine.

Most other Seicento owners (mostly with the 1.1 engine though) use
10W40 too, but some have been using 0W40 (fully synth). One of the
guys with 0W40 says that his engine's still going well after 76k miles.
0W40 can leak on Sei's though so I'm gonna leave that alone.

One thing that seems to happen though is that the 10W40 leaks as it
gets to the end of its life. I found another Seicento owner who said
that and I experienced a loss of oil when my oil was about 5 months
old. If oil does leak like this is it likely to open things up, and
make the leaks permanent/worse?

The other thing I still don't really understand is how thin oils (eg.
0W40) leak. They should never get thinner than 40 weight oil. Or
could it be due to the oil being like say a 20 weight oil at say 70C,
and being a bit thinner than 40 weight oil at 100C?

Interesting fact : 0W40 is actually no thinner tha 5W40, it just has a
lower pour point. This basically means that it is suitable for
stupidly cold temperatures of something like -30C. However in these
temperatures the oil is going to be the least of your worries!

Add comment
Nik&Andy 13 April 2005 13:00:35 [ permanent link ]
 <petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113338752.670­966.62640@l41g2000cw­c.googlegroups.com..­.> I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally confused!> Reading through all of what I've read may clear it up, but I haven't> really got enough time. http://63.240.161.9­9/motoroil/ seems to know a> lot about it.>
One thing that really confuses me though is that a lot of people say> that synthetic oils, such as 0W40 or 5W40, can be too thin for certain> engines. Acording to this document something such as 15W40 when warm> will be thinner than 0W40 when cold. The problem with cold oils is> that they are too thick. So why is it that when an oil is cold and> very thick it can be too thin? Is it because the engine is cold and> the tolerances aren't quite what they should be?>

See here ------->
http://www.chris-lo­nghurst.com/carbible­s/index.html?menu.ht­ml&engineoil_bible.h­tml

For a better explanation.

Andy


Add comment
Petermcmillan Uk 13 April 2005 13:37:29 [ permanent link ]
 
Nik&Andy wrote:>
See here ------->>
http://www.chris-lo­nghurst.com/carbible­s/index.html?menu.ht­ml&engineoil_bible.h­tml>
For a better explanation.>
Andy

That was the other one I looked at

Add comment
AstraVanMan 13 April 2005 15:13:34 [ permanent link ]
 
I've just been reading about oil grades and now I'm totally confused!

<snip>
So why is it that when an oil is cold and very thick it can be too thin?

Something very thick being too thin? Now that *is* confusing!!

--
Peter

"A field event exists that is vaguely similar to throwing a frisby.
Discus."
Get Circumcised to e-mail me


Add comment
Adrian 13 April 2005 18:00:27 [ permanent link ]
 AstraVanMan (Peter@SwerveForesk­inWeb.com) gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying :
Something very thick being too thin? Now that *is* confusing!!

Think "Victoria Beckham"...
Add comment
Nik&Andy 13 April 2005 18:13:51 [ permanent link ]
 
"Adrian" <toomany2cvs@gmail.­com> wrote in message
news:Xns963798AB370­6Cadrianachapmanfree­is@204.153.244.170..­.> AstraVanMan (Peter@SwerveForesk­inWeb.com) gurgled happily, sounding much> like they were saying :>
Something very thick being too thin? Now that *is* confusing!!>
Think "Victoria Beckham"...

Lol...

Andy


Add comment
Chris Street 13 April 2005 22:04:52 [ permanent link ]
 On 13 Apr 2005 01:50:07 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:
Chris Street wrote:>> On 12 Apr 2005 13:54:20 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:>>
You should be using what the maker specifies and not guessing.>>
Oil grades come in varying numbers, so you get a 10 weight oil, 20> weight>> etc. The acrual viscosity in centistokes is measured at a prescribed>> temperature and that is a single straight oil. The oil grade is> determined>> by bearing clearances, shaft speeds, loading, desired film stability> yadda>> yadda. Forget why, just accept that a number is arrived at. This is> the>> grade needed when the engine is hot.>>
Now in winter an engine that wants say a 30 weight oil could find> that it>> gets so cold and viscous that it is too thick to start, and once> started it>> flows so slowly that bearings get oil starved. Consequently it needs> a>> thinner oil so it might have a 10 weight oil in winter.>>
Of course, that oil is too thin when the engine gets up to> temperature,>> epsecially in summer when the engine will run hotter.>>
So some bright spark came up with index improvers. These effectivly>> increase the viscosity of the oil as it warms up. Hence you could> start>> with a cold 10 weight oil and as you warm it up it get *thinner* - it>> *always* gets thinner, but the index improver additive means that it> only>> thins out to the same viscosity as a 30 weight oil would at operating>> temperature.>>
Thats a 10W30 oil. It's cold viscosity is like a 10 grade oil would> be and>> it's hot viscosity is like a 30 grade oil would be. The W indicates> the>> Winter grade - a hangover from the days when people changed oil> grades as>> the seasons rolled round as the engines ran hotter or colder.> Nowadays with>> modern liquid cooled engines that's no longer an issue.>>
Added to this is a series of quality ratings. There are two to> consider,>> the API from the American Petroleum Institute and the ACEA from the>> Association des Constructeurs Européens de l'Automobile.>>
API grades are S grades for petrol (Spark ignition) and C grades for> diesel>> (Compression ignition). The current best grade is SL (I think) with> SJ>> still "active" others are obselete.>>
ACEA has A grades for petrol and B for diesels, so you will see> things like>> A1/B1 for normal use, or A3/B3 for an oil suitable for a modern>> turbodiesel.>>
If you look in the Sei's handbook I'll make a guess that they specify> a>> 5W30 SL or ACEA A1/B1 oil. That is what you need.>
My handbook says 15W40, although when I asked at FIAT they assured me> that it was 10W40 even after I asked him whether he was sure. I used> 15W40 at first, but I changed to 10W40 mainly because I could get it> MUCH cheaper, and I don't think it will kill my engine.

It won't assuming you change it at the required interval. It'll probably
give a better cold wear performance as well.
Most other Seicento owners (mostly with the 1.1 engine though) use> 10W40 too, but some have been using 0W40 (fully synth). One of the> guys with 0W40 says that his engine's still going well after 76k miles.

I should hope so - any angine with moderate care should do considerably
more than that.
0W40 can leak on Sei's though so I'm gonna leave that alone.>
One thing that seems to happen though is that the 10W40 leaks as it> gets to the end of its life. I found another Seicento owner who said> that and I experienced a loss of oil when my oil was about 5 months> old. If oil does leak like this is it likely to open things up, and> make the leaks permanent/worse

Sure it's not burning it instead? It's only leaking if you can see a puddle
forming.
The other thing I still don't really understand is how thin oils (eg.> 0W40) leak. They should never get thinner than 40 weight oil. Or> could it be due to the oil being like say a 20 weight oil at say 70C,> and being a bit thinner than 40 weight oil at 100C?>
Interesting fact : 0W40 is actually no thinner tha 5W40, it just has a> lower pour point.

There are several oils where the 10W has a lower pour point than the 5W
oil. Pour point is not related to viscocisty - water has a viscosity much
lower than most oils for example but it's pour point is 32F. Pour point is
related to the chemistry of the oil - a mineral oil will generally have
amuch higher pour point than a synthetic yet they will have the same weight
and viscosity measurements.
This basically means that it is suitable for> stupidly cold temperatures of something like -30C. However in these> temperatures the oil is going to be the least of your worries!
Add comment
Petermcmillan Uk 13 April 2005 23:04:35 [ permanent link ]
 
Chris Street wrote:> On 13 Apr 2005 01:50:07 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:> >
My handbook says 15W40, although when I asked at FIAT they assured
that it was 10W40 even after I asked him whether he was sure. I
used> > 15W40 at first, but I changed to 10W40 mainly because I could get
MUCH cheaper, and I don't think it will kill my engine.>
It won't assuming you change it at the required interval. It'll
probably> give a better cold wear performance as well.>
Most other Seicento owners (mostly with the 1.1 engine though) use> > 10W40 too, but some have been using 0W40 (fully synth). One of the> > guys with 0W40 says that his engine's still going well after 76k
miles.>
I should hope so - any angine with moderate care should do
considerably> more than that.>
0W40 can leak on Sei's though so I'm gonna leave that alone.> >
One thing that seems to happen though is that the 10W40 leaks as it> > gets to the end of its life. I found another Seicento owner who
said> > that and I experienced a loss of oil when my oil was about 5 months> > old. If oil does leak like this is it likely to open things up,
make the leaks permanent/worse>
Sure it's not burning it instead? It's only leaking if you can see a
puddle> forming.

It's possible, actually it probably is being burnt. I suspect it's
because it's getting through smaller gaps then it did when it was
fresh. My head's oily anyway, so I can't really be sure about that,
but I'm gonna clean it up when I get chance.
The other thing I still don't really understand is how thin oils
(eg.> > 0W40) leak. They should never get thinner than 40 weight oil. Or> > could it be due to the oil being like say a 20 weight oil at say
70C,> > and being a bit thinner than 40 weight oil at 100C?> >
Interesting fact : 0W40 is actually no thinner tha 5W40, it just
has a> > lower pour point.>
There are several oils where the 10W has a lower pour point than the
oil. Pour point is not related to viscocisty - water has a viscosity
much> lower than most oils for example but it's pour point is 32F. Pour
point is> related to the chemistry of the oil - a mineral oil will generally
have> amuch higher pour point than a synthetic yet they will have the same
weight> and viscosity measurements.>
This basically means that it is suitable for> > stupidly cold temperatures of something like -30C. However in
these> > temperatures the oil is going to be the least of your worries!

Add comment
Chris Street 14 April 2005 00:44:33 [ permanent link ]
 On 13 Apr 2005 12:04:35 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:
Chris Street wrote:>> On 13 Apr 2005 01:50:07 -0700, petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:>>>
My handbook says 15W40, although when I asked at FIAT they assured> me>>> that it was 10W40 even after I asked him whether he was sure. I> used>>> 15W40 at first, but I changed to 10W40 mainly because I could get> it>>> MUCH cheaper, and I don't think it will kill my engine.>>
It won't assuming you change it at the required interval. It'll> probably>> give a better cold wear performance as well.>>
Most other Seicento owners (mostly with the 1.1 engine though) use>>> 10W40 too, but some have been using 0W40 (fully synth). One of the>>> guys with 0W40 says that his engine's still going well after 76k> miles.>>
I should hope so - any angine with moderate care should do> considerably>> more than that.>>
0W40 can leak on Sei's though so I'm gonna leave that alone.>>>
One thing that seems to happen though is that the 10W40 leaks as it>>> gets to the end of its life. I found another Seicento owner who> said>>> that and I experienced a loss of oil when my oil was about 5 months>>> old. If oil does leak like this is it likely to open things up,> and>>> make the leaks permanent/worse>>
Sure it's not burning it instead? It's only leaking if you can see a> puddle>> forming.>
It's possible, actually it probably is being burnt. I suspect it's> because it's getting through smaller gaps then it did when it was> fresh. My head's oily anyway, so I can't really be sure about that,> but I'm gonna clean it up when I get chance.

All engines will use oil to some extent so unless it's excessive then I
wouldn't worry in the slightest. A pint or so over the service interval is
nothing to worry about unless it suddenly starts.
Add comment
Guest 14 April 2005 12:14:27 [ permanent link ]
 
petermcmillan_uk@ya­hoo.com wrote:> My head's oily anyway, so I can't really be sure about that,> but I'm gonna clean it up when I get chance.>

I thought as much. ;-)­

Add comment
 

Add new comment

As:
Login:  Password:  
 
 
  
 
respect your talk pals, avoid using obscene language, typing entire messages in CAPS, posting buy/sell ads or violating netiquette or the RF Criminal Code..

CarGuru > Open discussion > Oil grades 14 April 2005 12:14:27
see also:
ATLANTIC: Redemption, victory for Matos…
GP2: Hockenheimring: Javier Villa race…
pass tests:
see also:
cam belt tension
Please visit our Corporate website ...
OIL LIGHT
  Copyright © 2001—2009 Car-Guru
Idea: Miñhael Monashev
See Help and FAQ in the community support.car-guru.com.
Write in the community about the bugs you have noticedbugs.car-guru.com.
Write your offers and comments in the communities suggest.car-guru.com.
Information for parents.
Write us at:
If you would like to report an abuse of our service, such as a spam message, please .