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How tight to do up the wheel bearing nut?
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CarGuru > Open discussion > How tight to do up the wheel bearing nut? 30 July 2008 04:41:58
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How tight to do up the wheel bearing nut?

Guest 6 May 2005 21:28:57
 Hi,

I am just putting the wheel bearing back together on my MG B GT. How
tight do I do up the castellated nut?

The haynes manual says to the specified torque, but I do not have a
torque wrench.

This site [1] says do it up tight, then lossen it, and do it up again
until it makes contact, then do it a bit tighter if there is any play.
I am finding it hard to determine the difference between play in the
suspension and the bearing, and I cannot feel a definate point that
play stops between completely loose and done up as tight as I can.

Any pointers, please? Thanks.

[1] http://www.theautoi­st.com/spacers&shims­.htm

Add comment
Andy Hewitt 6 May 2005 22:05:39 [ permanent link ]
 <davidjones@myself.c­om> wrote:
Hi,>
I am just putting the wheel bearing back together on my MG B GT. How> tight do I do up the castellated nut?>
The haynes manual says to the specified torque, but I do not have a> torque wrench.>
This site [1] says do it up tight, then lossen it, and do it up again> until it makes contact, then do it a bit tighter if there is any play.> I am finding it hard to determine the difference between play in the> suspension and the bearing, and I cannot feel a definate point that> play stops between completely loose and done up as tight as I can.>
Any pointers, please? Thanks.

I take it this is a front bearing?

If so, I always used to tighten these up very slightly with a bar (and I
mean very slightly), back them off and then tighten by hand. It can help
to do this with the wheel on and give it a wiggle as you tighten the
nut, keep tightening until you can't feel any play on the wheel - this
is literally to the point that the play stops, if anything leave some
play rather than overtighten.

--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS
Honda Civic: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor)
http://mysite.wanad­oo-members.co.uk/the­hewitts2/index.htm
(updated Feb 21 2005)
Add comment
Guy King 6 May 2005 22:16:59 [ permanent link ]
 The message <1115400537.790735.­182980@g14g2000cwa.g­ooglegroups.com>
from davidjones@myself.c­om contains these words:
The haynes manual says to the specified torque, but I do not have a> torque wrench.

My Haynes says 40-70 ftlb - which is a huge range. Between "Not terribly
firm at all" and "Mdium tight". It also gives a long and complicated
procedure for getting the right shims in the front bearings.

You could go buy a torque wrench - Argos do 'em for a tenner or so.

--
Skipweasel.
Ivor Cutler - "Never knowingly understood."


Add comment
Dave Plowman 6 May 2005 22:31:40 [ permanent link ]
 In article <1115400537.790735.­182980@g14g2000cwa.g­ooglegroups.com>,
<davidjones@myself.­com> wrote:> I am just putting the wheel bearing back together on my MG B GT. How> tight do I do up the castellated nut?
The haynes manual says to the specified torque, but I do not have a> torque wrench.
This site [1] says do it up tight, then lossen it, and do it up again> until it makes contact, then do it a bit tighter if there is any play.> I am finding it hard to determine the difference between play in the> suspension and the bearing, and I cannot feel a definate point that> play stops between completely loose and done up as tight as I can.

There shouldn't be any play in the suspension. A small amount of play in a
taper wheel bearing is OK, though. But has an MGB taper bearings? Things
like the earlier Austins that used the same type of suspension weren't.

However, if it is an adjustable type, tighten it moderately with a spanner
to seat the bearings. Then slacken. Then tighten with your fingers as
tight as you can and back off to the first hole. You won't be far out.
Something like 5mm movement at the top of the tyre is OK.

--
*Why isn't there mouse-flavoured cat food?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.u­k London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Add comment
Mike G 6 May 2005 22:59:43 [ permanent link ]
 
<davidjones@myself.­com> wrote in message
news:1115400537.790­735.182980@g14g2000c­wa.googlegroups.com.­..> Hi,>
I am just putting the wheel bearing back together on my MG B GT. How> tight do I do up the castellated nut?

Assuming they are Timken taper bearings, the nuts should not be tight at
all.
In effect the nut is only used to adjust, and set the play in the bearings.
The aim is to have as little play as possible, so even after they're set,
the nut is not actually loading the bearing at all. Up to 0.75mm play at the
wheel rim is permissable.
Which might be the difference between a setting that's too tight and a
looser setting where the split pin can still be fitted.
Initially they are lightly tightened to ensure everything is seating
properly. Then backed off and adjusted as above.
Mike.

Add comment
Mike G 6 May 2005 23:03:16 [ permanent link ]
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.­uk> wrote in message
news:4d66ed4e42dave­@davenoise.co.uk...>­ In article <1115400537.790735.­182980@g14g2000cwa.g­ooglegroups.com>,> <davidjones@myself.­com> wrote:> > I am just putting the wheel bearing back together on my MG B GT. How> > tight do I do up the castellated nut?>
The haynes manual says to the specified torque, but I do not have a> > torque wrench.>
This site [1] says do it up tight, then lossen it, and do it up again> > until it makes contact, then do it a bit tighter if there is any play.> > I am finding it hard to determine the difference between play in the> > suspension and the bearing, and I cannot feel a definate point that> > play stops between completely loose and done up as tight as I can.>
There shouldn't be any play in the suspension. A small amount of play in a> taper wheel bearing is OK, though. But has an MGB taper bearings? Things> like the earlier Austins that used the same type of suspension weren't.>
However, if it is an adjustable type, tighten it moderately with a spanner> to seat the bearings. Then slacken. Then tighten with your fingers as> tight as you can and back off to the first hole. You won't be far out.> Something like 5mm movement at the top of the tyre is OK.

Sorry to correct you Dave. but 5mm is definitely too much.
Maybe you meant 0.5mm. :-)­
Mike.

Add comment
Guest 6 May 2005 23:28:13 [ permanent link ]
 Thanks for the pointers. I have found out why I could not tighten in
up enough to stop the play, it is because the play is in the ball
joints. Oh bother. I guess I shall have to take them apart tommorrow.
Probably I will just have to change the shills?

Add comment
Guest 6 May 2005 23:50:37 [ permanent link ]
 Hi Again,

I replyed before I saw all these messages. Bloody google.

So, there is play at the top and bottom of the bit of metal marked 21
in the diagram at [1]. This is wrong I belive? This piece is known as
the swivel axle?

I guess I need to carry out the procedure as described in the haynes
manual as "Swivel axle and swivel pin (kingpin) assembly - removal,
dismantling, reassembling and refitting". Bother again. That involves
removing the coil spring, could be a bit of a job. What do you reakon
about the chance of 2 relatively inxperienced but vaguely practical
blokes doing it this weekend?

My mate reakons I will only need change the shims. What do you lot
reakon?

Thanks all.

[1] http://www.mgb.bc.c­a/service/front-susp­ension.html

Add comment
Rob 7 May 2005 08:25:19 [ permanent link ]
 davidjones@myself.co­m wrote:
Hi Again,>
I replyed before I saw all these messages. Bloody google.>
So, there is play at the top and bottom of the bit of metal marked 21> in the diagram at [1]. This is wrong I belive? This piece is known as> the swivel axle?>
I guess I need to carry out the procedure as described in the haynes> manual as "Swivel axle and swivel pin (kingpin) assembly - removal,> dismantling, reassembling and refitting". Bother again. That involves> removing the coil spring, could be a bit of a job. What do you reakon> about the chance of 2 relatively inxperienced but vaguely practical> blokes doing it this weekend?>
My mate reakons I will only need change the shims. What do you lot> reakon?>
Thanks all.>
[1] http://www.mgb.bc.c­a/service/front-susp­ension.html>

You should buy a set of axels and pins and replace the units - the
bushes which are pressed into the swivel are reamed to suit the pin.

Both the pin and the bushes will be worn as well as the lower horizontal
bush.

Assembly will have to be setup and shimmed then put into place.

Buy all the parts in the front suspension you should replace them all.
Add comment
Guest 8 May 2005 13:53:05 [ permanent link ]
 Thanks for all the pointers. I decided I was not quite up for a
complete suspension rebuild today, and I gave it a good greaseing and
that stopped the movement. I guess that will do for the minute. I
shall have to fix it properly when I have a bit more time.

Anyone any idea how long I could expect to drive it in this condition?

Add comment
Mgamgb 8 May 2005 14:47:49 [ permanent link ]
 David

have a look at www.mgcars.org.uk.

Categories there for most groups of MG's. (General and Technical groups for
MGB)

Membership (free) is not needed, however you cannot search the archives
unless you join.

Cheers
Ian F


<davidjones@myself.­com> wrote in message
news:1115545985.580­189.24640@g14g2000cw­a.googlegroups.com..­.> Thanks for all the pointers. I decided I was not quite up for a> complete suspension rebuild today, and I gave it a good greaseing and> that stopped the movement. I guess that will do for the minute. I> shall have to fix it properly when I have a bit more time.>
Anyone any idea how long I could expect to drive it in this condition?>


Add comment
Guest 30 July 2008 04:41:58 [ permanent link ]
 could you please tell me how to replace the rear wheel bearing in a 1988 bmw coupe? thankyou
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CarGuru > Open discussion > How tight to do up the wheel bearing nut? 30 July 2008 04:41:58
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