Best Way to Fix Damaged Door Hinge Mounting Holes?

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Best Way to Fix Damaged Door Hinge Mounting Holes?
Guest 4 April 2005 23:39:36
	Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I had a few screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body. There's not enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and retapping them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much access to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will
		Add comment


Midlant@Earthlink.Net 4 April 2005 10:35:30 [ permanent link ]
	A-post side or door side? I have seen the door side done, but will have to think of how it was done. Karl
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Bill Glass 4 April 2005 17:22:59 [ permanent link ]
	wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote: Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I had a few> screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body. There's not> enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and retapping> them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much access> to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some> prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will> If you are talking about the nuts that sit on the cowl and are exposed to view only when you rmove the fender, there are two methods I used. Both require patience and a MIG. One is to get a large washer, but one where the nut will not fall through. You weld the nut that fits the screw for the hinge to the large washer. Now you bend a few pieces of metal and form steps, all you need is three, or two if cut carefully. Center the large washer with the welded nut in place, the position on each side of the washer, and tack weld it top and bottom which allows the wasaher with the nut to slide up and down-left and right. The other method is to make up the large washer with nut welded to it, then weld the large washer to the cowl. The first method gives you a bit more play allowing the nut to move, however, the 2nd method is stronger and since the holes in the fender are large you can still align the fenders. Bill
		Add comment


Guest 4 April 2005 19:26:47 [ permanent link ]
	Thanks for everones input so far. Just to clarify, I am talking about the nuts that are on the cowl/body- specifically the ones that have no rear access. Thanks -Will Bill Glass wrote:> wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I had a screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body. There's enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and retapping> > them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much access> > to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some> > prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will> > If you are talking about the nuts that> sit on the cowl and are exposed to view> only when you rmove the fender, there> are two methods I used. Both require> patience and a MIG. One is to get a> large washer, but one where the nut will> not fall through. You weld the nut that> fits the screw for the hinge to the> large washer. Now you bend a few pieces> of metal and form steps, all you need is> three, or two if cut carefully. Center> the large washer with the welded nut in> place, the position on each side of the> washer, and tack weld it top and bottom> which allows the wasaher with the nut to> slide up and down-left and right.> The other method is to make up the large> washer with nut welded to it, then weld> the large washer to the cowl. The first> method gives you a bit more play> allowing the nut to move, however, the> 2nd method is stronger and since the> holes in the fender are large you can> still align the fenders.> Bill
		Add comment


Bill 4 April 2005 20:17:47 [ permanent link ]
	Short of cutting into the cowl there is no way of doing it. That piece is weld in at the factory before that assembly is welded into the car. Once installed there is no access around that horse shoe assembly in the pillar. When I had that same problem I cut into the other side with the fender off, tacked the nuts in place and patched the hole I made. If you do it right it is hardly noticible. Bill '55 President '59 Hawk '60 Lark '70 Avanti '71 Avanti wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> Thanks for everones input so far. Just to clarify, I am talking about> the nuts that are on the cowl/body- specifically the ones that have rear access. Thanks -Will> Bill Glass wrote:> > wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> > Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I had screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body. There's> not> > > enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and retapping> > > them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much> access> > > to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some> > > prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will> > > If you are talking about the nuts that> > sit on the cowl and are exposed to view> > only when you rmove the fender, there> > are two methods I used. Both require> > patience and a MIG. One is to get a> > large washer, but one where the nut will> > not fall through. You weld the nut that> > fits the screw for the hinge to the> > large washer. Now you bend a few pieces> > of metal and form steps, all you need is> > three, or two if cut carefully. Center> > the large washer with the welded nut in> > place, the position on each side of the> > washer, and tack weld it top and bottom> > which allows the wasaher with the nut to> > slide up and down-left and right.> > The other method is to make up the large> > washer with nut welded to it, then weld> > the large washer to the cowl. The first> > method gives you a bit more play> > allowing the nut to move, however, the> > 2nd method is stronger and since the> > holes in the fender are large you can> > still align the fenders.> > Bill
		Add comment


Guest 4 April 2005 20:36:25 [ permanent link ]
	Thanks Bill. I hadn't thought of doing that. I will give it a shot. -Will Bill wrote:> Short of cutting into the cowl there is no way of doing it. That piece> is weld in at the factory before that assembly is welded into the car.> Once installed there is no access around that horse shoe assembly in> the pillar. When I had that same problem I cut into the other side with> the fender off, tacked the nuts in place and patched the hole I made.> If you do it right it is hardly noticible.> Bill> '55 President> '59 Hawk> '60 Lark> '70 Avanti> '71 Avanti> wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> > Thanks for everones input so far. Just to clarify, I am talking about> > the nuts that are on the cowl/body- specifically the ones that have> no> > rear access. Thanks -Will> > Bill Glass wrote:> > > wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> > > Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body. There's> > not> > > > enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and> retapping> > > > them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much> > access> > > > to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some> > > > prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will> > > > If you are talking about the nuts that> > > sit on the cowl and are exposed to view> > > only when you rmove the fender, there> > > are two methods I used. Both require> > > patience and a MIG. One is to get a> > > large washer, but one where the nut will> > > not fall through. You weld the nut that> > > fits the screw for the hinge to the> > > large washer. Now you bend a few pieces> > > of metal and form steps, all you need is> > > three, or two if cut carefully. Center> > > the large washer with the welded nut in> > > place, the position on each side of the> > > washer, and tack weld it top and bottom> > > which allows the wasaher with the nut to> > > slide up and down-left and right.> > > The other method is to make up the large> > > washer with nut welded to it, then weld> > > the large washer to the cowl. The first> > > method gives you a bit more play> > > allowing the nut to move, however, the> > > 2nd method is stronger and since the> > > holes in the fender are large you can> > > still align the fenders.> > > Bill
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Jh 4 April 2005 23:39:36 [ permanent link ]
	When I took my '53 apart, I twisted off one of the hidden nuts inside the A pillar so it busted the cage and was spinning around. There was no way to get the bolt stub out or fix the nut so I had to cut a access window in the pillar to get at it to repair and then welded the "flap" back up. Also, I bought some new cage nuts from a swap vendor at Iola, WI swap meet. Restoration Specialities I think was the name. They sell all sorts of odd hardware and clips. I once had a link for them but its lost. The cage nuts are a little loose and help for door adjustment over a fixed nut if you need it. Jeff H wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> Thanks Bill. I hadn't thought of doing that. I will give it a shot.> -Will> Bill wrote:> > Short of cutting into the cowl there is no way of doing it. That> piece> > is weld in at the factory before that assembly is welded into the> car.> > Once installed there is no access around that horse shoe assembly the pillar. When I had that same problem I cut into the other side> with> > the fender off, tacked the nuts in place and patched the hole I made.> > If you do it right it is hardly noticible.> > Bill> > '55 President> > '59 Hawk> > '60 Lark> > '70 Avanti> > '71 Avanti> > wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> > > Thanks for everones input so far. Just to clarify, I am talking> about> > > the nuts that are on the cowl/body- specifically the ones that have> > no> > > rear access. Thanks -Will> > > Bill Glass wrote:> > > > wcarroll@outrageous.net wrote:> > > > Anyone know the best way to fix door hinge mounting holes? I> had> > a> > > few> > > > > screws break when I removed my door hinges from the body.> There's> > > not> > > > > enough meat left to get them out and I tried drilling and> > retapping> > > > > them but I failed. How do repair these? Doesn't seem to be much> > > access> > > > > to them from the backside. I was thinking of welding in some> > > > > prethreaded welding nuts. Suggestions? Thanks -Will> > > > > If you are talking about the nuts that> > > > sit on the cowl and are exposed to view> > > > only when you rmove the fender, there> > > > are two methods I used. Both require> > > > patience and a MIG. One is to get a> > > > large washer, but one where the nut will> > > > not fall through. You weld the nut that> > > > fits the screw for the hinge to the> > > > large washer. Now you bend a few pieces> > > > of metal and form steps, all you need is> > > > three, or two if cut carefully. Center> > > > the large washer with the welded nut in> > > > place, the position on each side of the> > > > washer, and tack weld it top and bottom> > > > which allows the wasaher with the nut to> > > > slide up and down-left and right.> > > > The other method is to make up the large> > > > washer with nut welded to it, then weld> > > > the large washer to the cowl. The first> > > > method gives you a bit more play> > > > allowing the nut to move, however, the> > > > 2nd method is stronger and since the> > > > holes in the fender are large you can> > > > still align the fenders.> > > > Bill
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Best Way to Fix Damaged Door Hinge Mounting Holes?

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