Re: Non-serviceable front wheel bearing - only words in manual

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CarGuru > Chrysler > Re: Non-serviceable front wheel bearing - only words in manual - throwaway van? 22 August 2005 23:49:15

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Re: Non-serviceable front wheel bearing - only words in manual - throwaway van?
Maxpower 20 August 2005 14:41:45
	<treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1124533084.920205.51710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...> 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more. Yes and it is come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van? You can if you want, me... I would replace the non serviceable wheel bearing with another non serviceable wheel bearing and keep the van. Non serviceable means you cant service it, such as remove it and grease it, It doesnt say non replaceable. it's there, if you listen for it. one tire has some cupping on the> outside but probably from the bearing going bad? it's the right front.> if i turn to the left, the sound is more pronounced and obvious from> the right front wheel.> why does the manual not say what to do?> i noticed this is in chapter 5 of the manual.> fine, there is no chapter 4!!! it's missing. there is a chaper 0> great, chaper 0 which looks like Chapter "O" instead of "0"> maybe chapter 4 had front wheel bearings? nope, also missing in> manual's index.> unbelievable. not any mention of a chapter 4.> what is wrong with these people? they can't count from 1 to 10??? If you are talking about the factory service manuals the reason is because you dont have the complete set for that vehicle, there may be 32 other books with the rest of the chapters missing. anyway the manual only says "permanently sealed non-serviceable." And it is correct> does this mean i throw away my minivan now? Sure> if it's not serviceable why is one quote i have for a replacement $90> with $145 labor, about 1 1/2 hours at $79/hour? high, low, medium?> any ideas? Yup, read above> did tire rotations, taking tires off, swapping, looking, it is a wheel> bearing caught very early. if i wait, it will be loud enough not to> miss. surprised at the expense, over twice a regular, pressed wheel> bearing.> I hope your not going to attempt the repair on this vehicle, have someone that can read a service manual do the job. Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Meirman 20 August 2005 17:42:57 [ permanent link ]
	In rec.autos.makers.chrysler on 20 Aug 2005 03:18:04 -0700 "treeline12345@yahoo.com" <treeline12345@yahoo.com> posted: did tire rotations, taking tires off, swapping, looking, it is a wheel>bearing caught very early. if i wait, it will be loud enough not to>miss. surprised at the expense, over twice a regular, pressed wheel>bearing. I wouldn't wait too long. Long time ago, I had damaged a stud or two, by driving when the lug nuts were loose (I heard the noise but thought it was a front wheel bearing (RWD car) Since I didn't know have the tools to replace them, I knew better but I just took a hub from a junkyard and put that on, mixing the old inner race of the bearing with the new outer race. Shouldn't do that. I drove around town for a day or two with no problem, and on the third day I set out for Chicago. I had a rider, and she was driving, and she said she heard a noise when she went straight, but not if she turned the wheel a little. I drove, and voila, the same thing. Pulled onto the shoulder and the right front wheel hub was burning hot. I think I coudl tell even without touching it. But I could see the expressway ramp only two blocks away and at the top was a gas station. But he told me he couldn't do it. I had to go to the dealer. He said the GM dealer was 5 minutes away, in Mercer, Pennsylvania. Got there and the first thing he did was look at the clock, 20 till 5. He started. The bearing had melted and fused to the spindle. He couldn't do it. Called his boss, who used an acetylene torch. Said the spindle often got ruined when this was done, but mine came out fine. Then he didn't have some part he needed. I wish I could remember what it was. Maybe a hub, since maybe the other half of the bearing was fused to the hub. Fortunately, I was at least competent enough to have all the parts I had removed with me in the trunk. He was done by 15 after. I apologized for keeping him late, but he said it was fine. He lived only five minutes away. Didn't charge me for any parts and the rest was very cheap too. Wasted less than an hour. As to manuals, you have to read them with a grain of salt. As I said, I didn't have the tools to replace the studs, because the shop manual said that wheel studs had to be removed and installed with a hydraulic press. Later when I broke off more studs on a different wheel or car, I asked a random question (it's always good to ask a question, even if it is the wrong one. If I hadn't, the guy would have assumed I knew what I was doing and would have said nothing), and the guy at Atlantic Wheel and Rim told me that NO ONE uses a hydraulic press. They punch the old studs out with a hammer and a drift, and they put the new ones in by sticking them through the hole, attaching the lug nut, and tightening it down with a wrench. I had to replace 4 studs on one hub. It worked fine and took less than a half-hour iirc. Another thing the shop manual said was, to remove the rear half-axle on my rear-wheel-drive car, I should attach an axle puller, part number W-4532-c. I didn't have one and I was out of town, so put the car on a safety stand, took off the wheel and pulled. It came out eassier than taking the cap off a pen. No tools. The manual didn't say "if necessary". And many of the instructions in manuals stay the same year after year. If you email me, please let me know whether or not you are posting the same letter. If necessary, change domain to erols.com. Directions are given as if you know nothing. There's a big range here but I don't know who knows what.
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Maxpower 20 August 2005 18:12:58 [ permanent link ]
	<treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1124533084.920205.51710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...> 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more.> come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van?> it's there, if you listen for it. one tire has some cupping on the> outside but probably from the bearing going bad? it's the right front.> if i turn to the left, the sound is more pronounced and obvious from> the right front wheel.> why does the manual not say what to do?> i noticed this is in chapter 5 of the manual.> fine, there is no chapter 4!!! it's missing. there is a chaper 0> great, chaper 0 which looks like Chapter "O" instead of "0"> maybe chapter 4 had front wheel bearings? nope, also missing in> manual's index.> unbelievable. not any mention of a chapter 4.> what is wrong with these people? they can't count from 1 to 10???> anyway the manual only says "permanently sealed non-serviceable."> does this mean i throw away my minivan now?> if it's not serviceable why is one quote i have for a replacement $90> with $145 labor, about 1 1/2 hours at $79/hour? high, low, medium?> any ideas?> did tire rotations, taking tires off, swapping, looking, it is a wheel> bearing caught very early. if i wait, it will be loud enough not to> miss. surprised at the expense, over twice a regular, pressed wheel> bearing. There is more then one manual. you dont have the drivabilty book, thats seperate, you dont have the trans book, thats seperate and I know you dont have the Body book which is also seperate, You may not have the wire schematics in your manual either, im not sure but like I said, there are several manuals for all vehicles
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Daniel J. Stern 20 August 2005 18:32:40 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 20 Aug 2005, treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more. That's true. come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van? No, replace the wheel bearing(s). Or, if you prefer parts changing to actual repair work, replace the hub-and-bearing assembly. Either which way, your option. Take a stroll through www.rockauto.com and amaze yourself at the availability of replacement parts you think don't exist. if it's not serviceable why is one quote i have for a replacement $90> with $145 labor, about 1 1/2 hours at $79/hour? high, low, medium? $90 for a wheel bearing and hub assembly, and a great deal more labor than is warranted.
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Joe Pfeiffer 20 August 2005 20:03:49 [ permanent link ]
	"treeline12345@yahoo.com" <treeline12345@yahoo.com> writes: 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more.> come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van? It's the wheel bearing itself that's a non-serviceable item. It is, however, replaceable. You take the steering knuckle to NAPA, they press out the old bearing and press in a new one. -- Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer skype: jjpfeifferjr
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Robbie and Laura Reynolds 20 August 2005 21:31:40 [ permanent link ]
	Here's what I do when the front wheel bearings go bad on a Dodge minivan. I go to the self serve junkyard that we talked about in another thread and buy an entire hub assembly for $19. I install it and take the old one back and get a dollar for it. (I think it's a state law that says they have to give core charges for everything.) The whole operation takes two hours, and that includes the time at the junkyard. If it goes bad, I'll just do it over because it's so easy. However, I have never had one from the junkyard go bad, after doing this on three different vans over the past 8 years.
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Tim Bur 20 August 2005 23:32:56 [ permanent link ]
	hey max got a new tool today a robinair recycler for r12 but i'm going to covert it to 134 all i have to do is change the oil seperator and filter and flush out old oil and add new pag oil 50 bucs can't go wrong maxpower wrote: <treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message> news:1124533084.920205.51710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...> > 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> > minivan> > the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> > more.> > come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> > the van?> > it's there, if you listen for it. one tire has some cupping on the> > outside but probably from the bearing going bad? it's the right front.> > if i turn to the left, the sound is more pronounced and obvious from> > the right front wheel.> > why does the manual not say what to do?> > i noticed this is in chapter 5 of the manual.> > fine, there is no chapter 4!!! it's missing. there is a chaper 0> > great, chaper 0 which looks like Chapter "O" instead of "0"> > maybe chapter 4 had front wheel bearings? nope, also missing in> > manual's index.> > unbelievable. not any mention of a chapter 4.> > what is wrong with these people? they can't count from 1 to 10???> > anyway the manual only says "permanently sealed non-serviceable."> > does this mean i throw away my minivan now?> > if it's not serviceable why is one quote i have for a replacement $90> > with $145 labor, about 1 1/2 hours at $79/hour? high, low, medium?> > any ideas?> > did tire rotations, taking tires off, swapping, looking, it is a wheel> > bearing caught very early. if i wait, it will be loud enough not to> > miss. surprised at the expense, over twice a regular, pressed wheel> > bearing.> There is more then one manual. you dont have the drivabilty book, thats> seperate, you dont have the trans book, thats seperate and I know you dont> have the Body book which is also seperate, You may not have the wire> schematics in your manual either, im not sure but like I said, there are> several manuals for all vehicles
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Robbie and Laura Reynolds 20 August 2005 23:43:48 [ permanent link ]
	I don't know if core charges are a universal thing now. I think they have to do it by law in Missouri. Even if you buy an electrical relay you get 25 cents back for the old one! To get the hub assembly off a Voyager or Caravan you'll need a big socket set, pliers for the steering rod cotter pin, a hammer and a tie rod fork. This is a fork with a wedge shape. You undo the nut holding the ball joint at the bottom of the hub and pull the bolt out. On the steering arm, you just undo the nut on the bottom (or is it the top....) Then you stick the end of the fork into each joint and hammer it in so it separates the joint. You'll need to support the vehicle off the ground to do this, because it's done after the wheel is off. Here's some important info you'll want to know. Before you start, with your van on the ground, loosen the nut that holds the drive shaft into the hub. If you try this with the wheel in the air, it will just spin unless you get King Kong to push the brake pedal for you. Then lift the vehicle and remove the tire and undo the joints. Now you will find that it is very hard to push the lower A-arm down from the ball joint. My solution to this problem is to remove the sway bar bushings on both ends and rotate the sway bar down out of the way. The suspension A-arm becomes very easy to move after this. Take off the brake assembly by removing the two big-headed bolts that hold the whole thing on, and you won't have to disassemble the brakes. Tuck the brakes out of the way. Find the four bolts that hold the hub assembly on, as well as the two big ones that hold the top to the strut. When you take the hub off, be sure not to pull the drive shaft out of the transmission, or you'll end up with transmission fluid on the ground. When you put the replacement on, just slide it over the end of the drive shaft, and make sure that the ball joint stem is in the right position to accept the keeper bolt. Some more important info that deserves careful consideration: By removing and replacing the two big bolts that hold the hub assembly to the strut, you are altering the camber of the wheel. If you want to eyeball it and try to get it right, that's your business. I've done that myself after changing struts when I was short of cash, and I got it close enough that my tires wore perfectly. But if you want to get it exactly right, take your van in for an alignment after you are sure that you have completed your hub replacement to your satisfaction. It's usually around 50 bucks, but it beats buying new tires next month. "treeline12345@yahoo.com" wrote:> It's pretty easy to take off an existing minivan in the junkyard? No> special tools needed? I have only one self-serve junkyard near me. It's> hilly and sometimes quite muddy so I'm asking. Did not know it was that> easy to get to the assembly. I read, had to jack up the vehicle,> disconnect tie rod end, separate ball joint from stud from knuckle...> so no special tools needed or did you mean just pick up an existing> one? It'd be nice to save a lot of money like this. And the core for> $1, that's interesting if so in my state, Pennsylvania.
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Robbie and Laura Reynolds 20 August 2005 23:47:46 [ permanent link ]
	One other thing, when I say "replace the entire hub assembly" I mean go to the junkyard and get the thing that has a ball joint stem on the bottom, a steering arm in the back, and it attaches to the strut on the top. You can get just the hub and leave most of that other stuff off, but reaking it down any more than this is just adding unnecessary complication. "treeline12345@yahoo.com" wrote:> It's pretty easy to take off an existing minivan in the junkyard? No> special tools needed? I have only one self-serve junkyard near me. It's> hilly and sometimes quite muddy so I'm asking. Did not know it was that> easy to get to the assembly. I read, had to jack up the vehicle,> disconnect tie rod end, separate ball joint from stud from knuckle...> so no special tools needed or did you mean just pick up an existing> one? It'd be nice to save a lot of money like this. And the core for> $1, that's interesting if so in my state, Pennsylvania.
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Bill Putney 21 August 2005 00:46:01 [ permanent link ]
	treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote:> ...I could have purchased> Alldata for a year, which does list what to do with the front wheel> bearings... I'm surprised at that - I had the impression that the AllData stuff was right from the FSM - it might have less info. than the FSM, but never more. Apparently I was wrong. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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Aarcuda69062 21 August 2005 00:56:50 [ permanent link ]
	In article <430787F4.852F19BE@kcnet.com>, Robbie and Laura Reynolds <robbie@kcnet.com> wrote: I don't know if core charges are a universal thing now. I think they> have to do it by law in Missouri. Even if you buy an electrical relay> you get 25 cents back for the old one!> To get the hub assembly off a Voyager or Caravan you'll need a big> socket set, pliers for the steering rod cotter pin, a hammer and a tie> rod fork. This is a fork with a wedge shape. You undo the nut holding> the ball joint at the bottom of the hub and pull the bolt out. On the> steering arm, you just undo the nut on the bottom (or is it the> top....) Then you stick the end of the fork into each joint and hammer> it in so it separates the joint. You'll need to support the vehicle off> the ground to do this, because it's done after the wheel is off. > Here's some important info you'll want to know. Before you start, with> your van on the ground, loosen the nut that holds the drive shaft into> the hub. If you try this with the wheel in the air, it will just spin> unless you get King Kong to push the brake pedal for you. Then lift the> vehicle and remove the tire and undo the joints. Now you will find that> it is very hard to push the lower A-arm down from the ball joint. My> solution to this problem is to remove the sway bar bushings on both ends> and rotate the sway bar down out of the way. The suspension A-arm> becomes very easy to move after this. Take off the brake assembly by> removing the two big-headed bolts that hold the whole thing on, and you> won't have to disassemble the brakes. Tuck the brakes out of the way. > Find the four bolts that hold the hub assembly on, as well as the two> big ones that hold the top to the strut. When you take the hub off, be> sure not to pull the drive shaft out of the transmission, or you'll end> up with transmission fluid on the ground. When you put the replacement> on, just slide it over the end of the drive shaft, and make sure that> the ball joint stem is in the right position to accept the keeper bolt. > Some more important info that deserves careful consideration: By> removing and replacing the two big bolts that hold the hub assembly to> the strut, you are altering the camber of the wheel. If you want to> eyeball it and try to get it right, that's your business. I've done> that myself after changing struts when I was short of cash, and I got it> close enough that my tires wore perfectly. But if you want to get it> exactly right, take your van in for an alignment after you are sure that> you have completed your hub replacement to your satisfaction. It's> usually around 50 bucks, but it beats buying new tires next month. More work than necessary, plus the added cost of the alignment. Four bolts hold the hub to he knuckle, no need to mess with tie rod separators and guessing at camber. This wheel bearing is about as easy to swap as it gets.
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Aarcuda69062 21 August 2005 01:01:02 [ permanent link ]
	In article <430788E2.B8435297@kcnet.com>, Robbie and Laura Reynolds <robbie@kcnet.com> wrote: One other thing, when I say "replace the entire hub assembly" I mean go> to the junkyard and get the thing that has a ball joint stem on the> bottom, a steering arm in the back, and it attaches to the strut on the> top. The steering "knuckle." You can get just the hub and leave most of that other stuff off,> but reaking it down any more than this is just adding unnecessary> complication. Let's see; Two nuts and bolts at the top for the strut. Tie rod end. Ball joint. versus Four hub to knuckle bolts. Your way is a whole lot harder and screws up the alignment.
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Aarcuda69062 21 August 2005 01:01:28 [ permanent link ]
	In article <1124568702.906115.112670@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, "treeline12345@yahoo.com" <treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote: Robbie and Laura Reynolds wrote:> > One other thing, when I say "replace the entire hub assembly" I mean go> > to the junkyard and get the thing that has a ball joint stem on the> > bottom, a steering arm in the back, and it attaches to the strut on the> > top. You can get just the hub and leave most of that other stuff off,> > but reaking it down any more than this is just adding unnecessary> > complication.> Thanks for the excellent explanations, very helpful. Not.
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Daniel J. Stern 21 August 2005 01:57:18 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 20 Aug 2005, treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: No, replace the wheel bearing(s). Or, if you prefer parts changing to> > actual repair work, replace the hub-and-bearing assembly. Either which> > way, your option. Take a stroll through www.rockauto.com and amaze> > yourself at the availability of replacement parts you think don't> > exist.> I did take a stroll. They had the wrong parts listed, all regular parts> for bearings from AC Delco that are the normal, serviceable kind. Amazing. Talk about leading a horse to water and having it refuse to drink. Somebody shows you that the actual bearings are available, and shows you where to get them, and shows you how inexpensive they are. Somebody else corroborates. And what do you do? You bleat about how they're obviously "the wrong parts", because you (mis)read something in your service manual. For your willful ignorance, you deserve to spend a lot of unnecessary money on this repair.
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Meirman 21 August 2005 07:27:06 [ permanent link ]
	In rec.autos.makers.chrysler on 20 Aug 2005 12:32:51 -0700 "treeline12345@yahoo.com" <treeline12345@yahoo.com> posted: But thanks for the tip about NAPA having handy machine shop services. I>forgot all about NAPA although I priced the part there. 50% more than>Rockauto.com that DS suggested. That's such a big difference I thought>Chinese vs. American? But Rockauto said their 50% less part was made by FTR, if NAPA is 50% more, then Rockauto is only 33% less. I'm alert to this sort of thing, because advertisers and politicians use variations of this seeming oddity to confuse people. BCA National, the main bearing company in the states. If you email me, please let me know whether or not you are posting the same letter. If necessary, change domain to erols.com. Directions are given as if you know nothing. There's a big range here but I don't know who knows what.
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Bill Putney 21 August 2005 15:47:47 [ permanent link ]
	treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote:> Bill Putney wrote:> treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote:>> ...I could have purchased>>>Alldata for a year, which does list what to do with the front wheel>>>bearings...>> I'm surprised at that - I had the impression that the AllData stuff was>>right from the FSM - it might have less info. than the FSM, but never>>more. Apparently I was wrong.> Here's the URL with the added info from AllData:> http://autorepair.about.com/li brary/faqs/bl632h.htm> It's hard to say where the added info came from that AllData added. It> was missing from the Chrysler factory shop manual for 1994> Plymouth/Dodge minivans. It's possible that AllData got the info from> an earlier shop manual or a later one and just added it since the> procedure is the same across the relevant years. It's also possible> that AllData got it from a third party manual somewhere? Just asking,> don't know much about AllData since I have not had to subscribe to them> yet.> Ummm - that's not AllData. Why would you even say it was? Not even the same format that you get with an AllData subscription. So far, until someone proves me wrong, I'm sticking to what I said: For service procedures, if it ain't in the FSM, it ain't on AllData. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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Bill Putney 21 August 2005 16:15:11 [ permanent link ]
	treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: ...i did not misread nothing in the service manual because there was>>nothing to read. that was the entire point of my post which you also>>missed.> i must have been upset by your rudeness to commit a double negative.> i did not misread anything because there was not anything to read.> that reads better. I noticed it, but I thought it was intentional and actually clever. Your point was that there was nothing in the manual (on the subject). Therefore, there was nothing to be misread, i.e., you "did not misread nothing" since there was nothing there to misread. Also, the powers that be in the grammar world have declared that double negatives are now legitimate (maybe only in informal speech?). I do technical writing where I report the results of certain types of testing. The wording has to be very precise and deliberate Believe me - you do this kind of writing with the grammar checker turned off. Although, if I can re-structure a sentence to avoid a double negative without losing accuracy or clarity, I will do so, once in a while there are instances where using a double negative is the most accurate and concise way to describe something. It is also now acceptable to intentionally split an infintive. 8^) How about "that that": "It was determined that that bolt was loose before the start of testing."? "If it were possible..." is gramamtically correct even though you would think the awkward sounding "If it was possible..." is called for. It's called past subjunctive mood. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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Bill Putney 21 August 2005 18:52:39 [ permanent link ]
	treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: Bill Putney wrote: How about "that that": "It was determined that that bolt was loose>>before the start of testing."? Why not "It was determined that this particular bolt.." I see, "that> that," is really the shortest way. Yeah - if the customer bleeds on it in the preliminary review, I typically end up re-writing the sentence to something like that for the final release. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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Daniel J. Stern 21 August 2005 20:26:46 [ permanent link ]
	On Sat, 20 Aug 2005, treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: why are you so rude? Low tolerance for willful ignorance. you have a great deal of knowledge about chrysler cars but no people> skills whatsoever. We have never met; you have no knowledge of my people skills. If my words on your screen bother you, avoid my posts. I have the same affliction, although not to the degree that you do. it's> called little professor syndrome. Or perhaps, in your case, we could call it "armchair psychologist syndrome".
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Maxpower 22 August 2005 00:04:44 [ permanent link ]
	"Robbie and Laura Reynolds" <robbie@kcnet.com> wrote in message news:430768FC.81D272FE@kcnet.com...> Here's what I do when the front wheel bearings go bad on a Dodge> minivan. I go to the self serve junkyard that we talked about in> another thread and buy an entire hub assembly for $19. I install it and> take the old one back and get a dollar for it. (I think it's a state> law that says they have to give core charges for everything.) The whole> operation takes two hours, and that includes the time at the junkyard.> If it goes bad, I'll just do it over because it's so easy. However, I> have never had one from the junkyard go bad, after doing this on three> different vans over the past 8 years. Interesting, not knowing how bad that hub and knuckle assembly could have been bent due to an accident.. the bearing is less then $60 bucks, it is removed without disturbing the camber setting, Now your gonna buy a used knuckle, and then realign the vehicle possibly with a faulty knuckle??/
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Maxpower 22 August 2005 00:06:51 [ permanent link ]
	<treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1124533084.920205.51710@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...> 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more.> come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van?> it's there, if you listen for it. one tire has some cupping on the> outside but probably from the bearing going bad? it's the right front.> if i turn to the left, the sound is more pronounced and obvious from> the right front wheel.> why does the manual not say what to do?> i noticed this is in chapter 5 of the manual.> fine, there is no chapter 4!!! it's missing. there is a chaper 0> great, chaper 0 which looks like Chapter "O" instead of "0"> maybe chapter 4 had front wheel bearings? nope, also missing in> manual's index.> unbelievable. not any mention of a chapter 4.> what is wrong with these people? they can't count from 1 to 10???> anyway the manual only says "permanently sealed non-serviceable."> does this mean i throw away my minivan now?> if it's not serviceable why is one quote i have for a replacement $90> with $145 labor, about 1 1/2 hours at $79/hour? high, low, medium?> any ideas?> did tire rotations, taking tires off, swapping, looking, it is a wheel> bearing caught very early. if i wait, it will be loud enough not to> miss. surprised at the expense, over twice a regular, pressed wheel> bearing.> I will give you the page number and chapter number when I go into the shop tommorro, along with the part number or the shop manual
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Ted Mittelstaedt 22 August 2005 12:11:02 [ permanent link ]
	<treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1124666266.447769.316110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...> Fair enough. Now I used the 1994, SERVICE MANUAL, Town & Country,> Caravan, and Voyager, by Chrysler Corporation. Front Wheel Drive, All> Wheel Drive, AS. Part number 81-370-4105. Page 5-53 is for WHEEL> BEARINGS which has only repair info for the Rear Wheel Bearings. "Front> wheel bearings on both front wheel drive and all wheel drive vehicles> are a permanently sealed non-serviceable bearing assembly." That's> nice, but uh, guys and gals, what to do about a bad front wheel> bearing? Not a hint. Nor a clue. Nor a referral to any other manual or> source. Re-read the page. Didn't you notice the sentence: "However, if during servicing of the brake system, service to a sealed wheel bearing assembly is required, refer to Group 2 Suspension in this service manual" It is on that page, first paragraph. Then if you refer to Group 2, specifically Page 2-21, there is the sentence: "If a hub and bearing assembly needs to be replaced, be sure that the replacement assembly has the same size wheel mounting stud pattern as the original part. This unit is serviced only as a complete assembly" This is right in the middle of the instructions on how to remove it. Clearly the Dealer Way of doing this job is to remove the entire hub and bearing, then replace that. This is probably because they figure that most dealerships don't have arbor presses and also don't have the time to go to a bearing distributor and get a replacement bearing. The Everybody Else way is to remove the hub and either go to an auto parts store which presumably has a "rebuilt" hub and bearing assembly on the shelf, or go to a bearing dealer who will read the numbers off the bearing and supply you with a replacement, then you go find a machine shop who will press the old one out and press yours back in. I'll await your findings. As I said before, there is not any other> manual available for me, as a mere customer, that would have this info.> If you find something, let me know if it's only for mechanics at the> dealer, which is entirely possible. But remember, I was posting as a> customer, not like a dealer mechanic, like yourself.> Guess what, I'm not a dealer mechanic or even a professional mechanic. The problem I think your having is that the Factory Service Manuals are written for people who have a nodding acquaintance of how to go about repairing a car. I frankly am amazed myself at the level of detail that they go into. For example the FSM you have spends a total of 13 pages beginning on page 2-32 on how to go about rebuilding a half-shaft, which is almost rediculous considering that you can buy a remanufactured one for $70 from NAPA - it's not cost effective for a professional or a DIYer to fool with it. Not to mention that unless you spend all day long rebuilding half-shafts, you probably are going to botch something and that's all you need is for a CV joint to fly apart on the highway. However the FSMs are NOT written for someone who repairs a car once every 10 years when the planets are aligned and the moon is in tune. They are NOT a basic car repairs manual. And also, many of the repair procedures in the manual are dreamed up by engineers sitting looking at a CAD drawing and perhaps tested out a few times on a prototype that doesen't have 5 years of underbody rust on it. They also suffer from the assumption that you want to preserve everything. For example many FSM's will go into great detail on how to take apart an exhaust system, but a lot of shops will simply use a cut-off tool to chop the entire muffler and tailpipe assembly right off then weld on a new set - it's less labor time for them. There really is no substitute for getting in there and looking at things. If you had spent a few hours jacking up your car then taking one of the front wheels off then studying how the suspension knuckle was put together, the manual would probably have become a whole lot clearer. People sometimes ask me how I know so much about my cars and I tell them I read the manual. And I do - but I don't just sit in an armchair and read the entire thing cover to cover and expect to know everything. Instead I read a section at a time, then study the real life parts and perhaps take things apart, then read the next section and repeat the process. Ted
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Steve 22 August 2005 16:58:47 [ permanent link ]
	treeline12345@yahoo.com wrote: 1994 voyager 3.0 liter mitsubishi, 2-wheel drive, compact, short> minivan> the manual says "permanently sealed non-serviceable" and not one word> more.> come on!!!, what does one do with a bad front wheel bearing? throw away> the van? OR go to the parts store and get a new bearing assembly.... What's the big mystery here?
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Maxpower 22 August 2005 23:49:15 [ permanent link ]
	<treeline12345@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1124707918.857543.311750@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...> Oops, I'm wrong, you're right. Way to go, thanks. I found the relevant> pages and chapter thanks also to Ted Mittelstaedt.> What a way to start the day being so wrong.> This was more then a day being wrong, it started on the 20th
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CarGuru > Chrysler > Re: Non-serviceable front wheel bearing - only words in manual - throwaway van? 22 August 2005 23:49:15

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Re: Non-serviceable front wheel bearing - only words in manual - throwaway van?

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