1.Whenever possible, use a conventional "paper" gasket, rather than> attempting to form a gasket in place with only RTV.> 2. Four surfaces need to be wetted: Two metal surfaces and both sides of> the paper gasket.> 3.Obtain a rubber printer's roller from a graphic arts supply house or > good> photographic supply house. Photographers use a roller for ferrotyping.> 4. Where space permits, dab RTV on metal surfaces at convenient intervals> and use roller to distribute RTV as a film, wetting the metal. If space > is> restrained, spread a thin film with the fingers.> 4. Dab RTV on gasket and use roller to distribute RTV, wetting the gasket> on both sides. Use newspaper under gasket.> 5. Clean roller as soon as possible, using denatured alcohol or whatever> else will cut it.> 6. Assemble gasket and parts to be sealed and bolt down. Very little RTV> will be excruded, which is desirable.>

The above method will perfect a seal that will last. It is good for oil> and water resistance, but not recommended for gasoline. Please remember> all four surfaces need to be wetted 100% or air bubbles and/or skips will> defeat a perfect seal.>

Blue or Red RTV is generally used, however, where there is no concern> needed to be taken for O2 sensors, GE 100% Silicone (clear) available in> large tubes for caulking guns is acceptable and despite its off-label use> described here, has been found entirely suitable for automotive use.>

Use fresh materials as Blue or Red RTV will expire and won't cure! GE > 100%> is date marked and will usually cure well past its expiration.>

I hope I never have to see a car you've worked on.>Larry