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Re: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim overheating 4 cyl Auto
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CarGuru > Chrysler > Re: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim overheating 4 cyl Auto 16 February 2005 04:45:36
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Re: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim overheating 4 cyl Auto

Bill Putney 15 February 2005 14:58:31
 Daniel J. Stern wrote:> ...a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose> on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run> the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature and> for about 10 minutes thereafter.

Just curious: What angle would be too much in risking oil starvation
(answer may depend on oil level)?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')
Add comment
Bob Urz 15 February 2005 19:26:22 [ permanent link ]
 

Daniel J. Stern wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote:>
I have a 94 Acclaim that wouldn't hardly warm up. A friend said I>>needed a thermostat, so I replaced it. I am pretty sure that I put it>>in the correct way. I put it in the same way the other was in.>>Anyway, since then it has had a couple of intermittent periods of>>overheating. The following day we took it out and it got really hot so I>>pulled over and opened the hood. The engine was really hot but the radiator>>and upper hose felt cold.>
Sounds as if you failed to bleed the air out of the cooling system after> replacing the thermostat. That's what the screw-in fitting atop the water> box (where the thermostat goes) is for.>
I opened the radiator cap and some coolant shot out.>
NEVER do this; you can be very badly burned.>
It's good to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange *just* outboard of> the valve poppet, and when you install the thermostat put this hole at the> 12:00 (top) position; this helps move air forward and evacuate it. But for> now, you need to bleed the system. The screw plug is often frozen in> place, so a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose> on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run> the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature and> for about 10 minutes thereafter.>
Isn't that whats a Jiggle valve is for?

Bob

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Add comment
N8n 15 February 2005 20:26:45 [ permanent link ]
 
Bill Putney wrote:> Daniel J. Stern wrote:> > ...a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose> > on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap
and run> > the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating
temperature and> > for about 10 minutes thereafter.>
Just curious: What angle would be too much in risking oil starvation> (answer may depend on oil level)?>

Depends on the engine, I guess. All the cars I have have rear-sump oil
pans, so I'm guessing the answer in that case would be something over
45 degrees :)­ Now if you've got a F*rd with a front sump pan, that
might be a different story.

nate

Add comment
Daniel J. Stern 15 February 2005 21:12:48 [ permanent link ]
 On Tue, 15 Feb 2005, Bob Urz wrote:
It's good to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange *just*> > outboard of the valve poppet, and when you install the thermostat put> > this hole at the 12:00 (top) position; this helps move air forward and> > evacuate it. But for now, you need to bleed the system. The screw plug> > is often frozen in place, so a decent alternative procedure is to put> > the car with the nose on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen> > the radiator cap and run the engine at a fast idle until it reaches> > full operating temperature and for about 10 minutes thereafter.
Isn't that whats a Jiggle valve is for?

Certainly. Often they are not present or are not sufficiently large.
Add comment
Daniel J. Stern 15 February 2005 21:16:25 [ permanent link ]
 On Tue, 15 Feb 2005, Bill Putney wrote:
...a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose on> > as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run> > the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature> > and for about 10 minutes thereafter.>
Just curious: What angle would be too much in risking oil starvation> (answer may depend on oil level)?

Gracious. I'm not suggesting winching the nose of the car up in the air!
Just a floor jack plus a suburban angled driveway would be plenty. Or a
street parking space in San Francisco (Ha ha...no such thing). Any
angular answer I would give you would be purely academic, and I don't know
it.
Add comment
Ed 16 February 2005 00:03:45 [ permanent link ]
 Dumb question. Could the water pump be shot?


Add comment
Kruse 16 February 2005 04:45:36 [ permanent link ]
 
ed wrote:> Dumb question. Could the water pump be shot?

*Could* be. We had a car in a few weeks ago that had only one impeller
left on it. (If I remember right, it should've had six!!)
In this case, though, it's probably the thermostat. There are a lot of
CHEAP thermostats on the market.

Add comment
Helvis 25 February 2005 01:18:46 [ permanent link ]
 I was waiting to reply because it seemed like it had resolved itself and I
wasn't going to have to do anything but.....

The car has been driven daily since my first post and didn't heat up again
until last night. It did almost the same thing as before. It finally got
to a point when it was really hot and the thermostat decided to open and the
engine temp dropped to normal in a matter of seconds. I already have a
spare thermostat and gasket so I am going to change it out and then I'll
bleed the system as Daniel suggested. Though I don't want to drill a hole
in the flange for fear of really messing something up ;o)

When I installed the first thermostat I did leave the cap off and let it
warm up like Lawrence had suggested. It did start to spill out so I thought
I was ok but maybe I didn't let it go long enough.

In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system and reuse the coolant
if it is fairly new but doesn't mention anything about bleeding it. There
is a hex head plug at the top of the water box like Daniel said there would
be but the book didn't mention it at all.

A friend is bringing me some larger hex wrenches later today since I don't
have any big enough. Hopefully this will fix it for good.

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I'll be posting another question
about my truck so stay tuned!




"Daniel J. Stern" <dastern@127.0.0.1>­ wrote in message
news:P­ine.GSO.4.58.­0502142232320.2171@a­lumni.engin.umich.ed­u...> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote:>
I have a 94 Acclaim that wouldn't hardly warm up. A friend said I>> needed a thermostat, so I replaced it. I am pretty sure that I put it>> in the correct way. I put it in the same way the other was in.>> Anyway, since then it has had a couple of intermittent periods of>> overheating. The following day we took it out and it got really hot so I>> pulled over and opened the hood. The engine was really hot but the >> radiator>> and upper hose felt cold.>
Sounds as if you failed to bleed the air out of the cooling system after> replacing the thermostat. That's what the screw-in fitting atop the water> box (where the thermostat goes) is for.>
I opened the radiator cap and some coolant shot out.>
NEVER do this; you can be very badly burned.>
It's good to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange *just* outboard of> the valve poppet, and when you install the thermostat put this hole at the> 12:00 (top) position; this helps move air forward and evacuate it. But for> now, you need to bleed the system. The screw plug is often frozen in> place, so a decent alternative procedure is to put the car with the nose> on as sharp an upward angle as possible, loosen the radiator cap and run> the engine at a fast idle until it reaches full operating temperature and> for about 10 minutes thereafter.>
The other possibility is that your engine requires a head gasket. These> engines aren't as prone to head gasket failures as the early 2.0/2.4, but> they do tend to need a gasket if they begin heating up like this.


Add comment
Daniel J. Stern 25 February 2005 02:09:48 [ permanent link ]
 On Thu, 24 Feb 2005, Helvis wrote:
In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system and reuse the coolant> if it is fairly new but doesn't mention anything about bleeding it. There> is a hex head plug at the top of the water box like Daniel said there would> be but the book didn't mention it at all.

This is just one more example of why you should not rely on Haynes' crappy
books.

Full instructions for using a Haynes manual are at:

http://u225.torque.­net/haynes_instructi­ons.html

You should really, REALLY get the factory manual if you plan on working on
your own car.

DS
Add comment
TeGGer® 25 February 2005 04:05:49 [ permanent link ]
 "Helvis" <he1vis@yahoo.nospa­m.com> wrote in
news:3vrTd.22129$Sq­5.21937@twister.rdc-­kc.rr.com:

In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system



My Hanes book says to wash my underwear regularly.

--
TeGGeR®

Add comment
Joe Pfeiffer 25 February 2005 10:24:45 [ permanent link ]
 "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> writes:
"Helvis" <he1vis@yahoo.nospa­m.com> wrote in> news:3vrTd.22129$Sq­5.21937@twister.rdc-­kc.rr.com: >
In the Hanes book it says to drain the entire system>
My Hanes book says to wash my underwear regularly.

Fortunately, you got the FSM andnot the Haynes book...
--
Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605
Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002
New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.­edu/~pfeiffer
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CarGuru > Chrysler > Re: 1994 Plymouth Acclaim overheating 4 cyl Auto 16 February 2005 04:45:36
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