It's not running very well but there are no bad engine sounds (even with > a stethescope). The car needs exhaust work, a steering rack (both boots > shot, noticeable steering play), brakes, an oil leak fixed, valves > adjusted (you could *hear* that they weren't happy), a window regulator, > and assorted minor stuff, some of which needs to be fixed and some of > which is fairly inconsequential. The owner does not know whether the > timing belt and water pump are due (which means they are, to me). > 186,000 miles.>

On the up side, the car came from California a couple of years ago and > has *no* rust, good tires and glass, and a fairly new clutch. It seems > otherwise fairly tight.>

I can probably get a window regulator and steering rack for around $150. > The oil leak is probably the half-moon seals and/or the valve cover > gasket (which would need to be changed to adjust the valves anyway). > Brake parts are probably in the $100 range but I've no clue what exhaust > parts cost. There were no obvious vacuum leaks but the engine lopes > when started cold and doesn't want to idle down when warm. Valve > adjustments, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs will probably go a long way > toward making it run right but I'm not certain they will fix all the > driveability problems.>

Kelly Blue Book value for Good condition (including some stuff the car > doesn't have, like ABS) is $1360. Fair condition is valued at $1030. > The good body condition makes the car really tempting, but...>

What's actually a reasonable price for this car?>

JRE

I wouldn't touch an "eta" engine car. They were slugs with a 4500 RPM > redline. Find a nice "i". You'll enjoy it a lot more.>

Guess I forgot to mention that I'm looking for a car for my soon to be> 16 year old son. The eta engine is *perfect*. ­>

(Besides, I have an E46 330i.)>

JimV wrote:>

I've owned both, and for everyday driving I prefer the "e".>

Matt O.>