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Chev/GMC brake question
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CarGuru > 4 x 4 > Chev/GMC brake question 17 April 2005 20:32:08

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Chev/GMC brake question

Justin_sane 5 April 2005 08:46:58
 I have a 94 GMC 4x4 1/2 ton Sierra with a soft or mushy brake pedal. My
older 84 GMC was the same way. I tried everything with it to stiffen up the
pedal but no go. I've been reading that this is "normal" for the GMC.
And has been corrected on later models. Does anyone know if is actually
"normal" and if there is any after market correction for it? I thought I
remember reading that you can install larger calipers (with a slight
modification, grinding down a boss or something ) that helps, any info on
that? Thanks.JS


Add comment
Jonathan Race 5 April 2005 18:27:16 permanent link ]
 Soft feeling brakes are not normal - it wasn't on my 1988 C1500 (190,000+
miles), my 1995 C1500 (170,000+ miles), nor my current 2004 2500HD. There
are several probable causes, all of which can be fixed.

1. Bad master cylinder. The only real solution is to replace it.
2. Air in your brake lines. You will need to have your brakes bled, but be
sure that the ABS module is bled also (frequently overlooked). If you do it
yourself, start from the closest bleeder valve to the reservoir and working
out - ABS module, left front, right front, left rear, right rear.
3. A weak or "soft" brake line. A soft or damaged brake line that connects
from the hard piping to each caliper/drum will expand under pressure and
cause the spongy feeling. If this is it then consider changing to braided
stainless steel lines.
4. A leak. But you would notice the brake fluid in the reservior dropping
over a short period.

I'm sure there might be one or two other things, but these are what I've
found to be most common.

Cheers - Jonathan

"justin_sane" <nevermind@no.net> wrote in message
news:6Lo4e.19174$DW­.10722@newssvr17.new­s.prodigy.com...>I have a 94 GMC 4x4 1/2 ton Sierra with a soft or mushy brake pedal. My >older 84 GMC was the same way. I tried everything with it to stiffen up the >pedal but no go. I've been reading that this is "normal" for the GMC. >And has been corrected on later models. Does anyone know if is actually >"normal" and if there is any after market correction for it? I thought I >remember reading that you can install larger calipers (with a slight >modification, grinding down a boss or something ) that helps, any info on >that? Thanks.JS>


Add comment
Martin Riddle 6 April 2005 03:37:36 permanent link ]
 Bleed, Bleed, Bleed.

As instructed by the shop manual.

You may need to bleed out 2-4 quarts to clear the lines.
Some other advice is to get the ABS bleeder tool, it cycles the pumps.
Another option is to take it for a drive and lock up the breaks to trigger the ABS a few times, then bleed out the system again. I
havent tried this but cause after bleeding 2 quarts I was happy with the results.

Another idea I'm toying with is to get the ABS to test itself repeatedly. This happens at 2-5mph after a start.

Cheers

"justin_sane" <nevermind@no.net> wrote in message news:6Lo4e.19174$DW­.10722@newssvr17.new­s.prodigy.com...> I have a 94 GMC 4x4 1/2 ton Sierra with a soft or mushy brake pedal. My> older 84 GMC was the same way. I tried everything with it to stiffen up the> pedal but no go. I've been reading that this is "normal" for the GMC.> And has been corrected on later models. Does anyone know if is actually> "normal" and if there is any after market correction for it? I thought I> remember reading that you can install larger calipers (with a slight> modification, grinding down a boss or something ) that helps, any info on> that? Thanks.JS>


Add comment
Warren Post 6 April 2005 19:44:17 permanent link ]
 My 1983 Suburban had mushy brakes, which I wrongly thought was just the
nature of the beast until I noticed that the brake master cylinder was
going bad. It´s being replaced now; I´ll let you know if that fixes it.

--
Warren Post
Santa Rosa de Copán, Honduras
http://srcopan.vze.­com/
Add comment
Warren Post 10 April 2005 19:38:23 permanent link ]
 Master cylinder replaced. Now my 83 Suburban´s brakes are nice and firm.
Hope your Sierra is as easily fixed.

--
Warren Post
Santa Rosa de Copán, Honduras
http://srcopan.vze.­com/
Add comment
Bill 12 April 2005 00:18:35 permanent link ]
 I`m not sure about the older ones,but my '97 brakes sucked.GM tried to
save a few bucks back then and put smaller rotors on.Also the back
brakes come out of adjustment alot.
I had a good friend take it in to Chevrolet
for me and replaced everything from master cylinder to rear brakes.
No change.

P.S. The brakes on the HD's are 4 wheel disc.So of course there gonna be
fine.

Add comment
Dennis Mayer 12 April 2005 02:41:11 permanent link ]
 

Bill wrote:>
I`m not sure about the older ones,but my '97 brakes sucked.GM tried to> save a few bucks back then and put smaller rotors on.

Also the front rotors were thin and tended to heat warp....

The 99 & up new body style Chevys were advertised as thick rotors..



Also the back> brakes come out of adjustment alot.> I had a good friend take it in to Chevrolet> for me and replaced everything from master cylinder to rear brakes.> No change.>
P.S. The brakes on the HD's are 4 wheel disc.So of course there gonna be> fine.
Add comment
Jonathan Race 12 April 2005 05:47:32 permanent link ]
 The only problem I ever had with the front rotors of both my '88 and my '95
Chevy's were from over-torquing the lug nuts when the wheels were put on
every time they were rebalanced and rotated. If I let the guy doing the
work tighten them with an impact wrench or if he hand torqued them to 100
ft-lbs (the recommended torque per the book) then the front rotors would
warp within 3000 miles. If however I insisted that the lugnuts be
hand-tightened to only 90 ft-lbs max then I had no problems for the next
10,000 miles until the tires got balanced and rotated again. Whe I replaced
the front rotors on my '88 with an aftermarket brand, the same problem
persisted, and the same remedy worked. And heaven knows I put enough miles
on both of those trucks to know.

Cheers - Jonathan

"Dennis Mayer" <Polaris1@execpc.co­m> wrote in message
news:425AFD07.CCDA9­2ED@execpc.com...>
Bill wrote:>>
I`m not sure about the older ones,but my '97 brakes sucked.GM tried to>> save a few bucks back then and put smaller rotors on.>
Also the front rotors were thin and tended to heat warp....>
The 99 & up new body style Chevys were advertised as thick rotors..>
Also the back>> brakes come out of adjustment alot.>> I had a good friend take it in to Chevrolet>> for me and replaced everything from master cylinder to rear brakes.>> No change.>>
P.S. The brakes on the HD's are 4 wheel disc.So of course there gonna be>> fine.


Add comment
Jonathan Race 12 April 2005 05:52:07 permanent link ]
 Not only are the brakes on my 2500HD 4 wheel disc, but they are HUGE.

Interestingly enough, I think the '99-'04 half-ton models also had 4 wheel
disc brakes, but Chevy went back to rear drums in 2005 on the half-ton's
only with 6-lug wheels.

Cheers - Jonathan

"Bill" <B512RACING@webtv.n­et> wrote in message
news:12043-425ADB9B­-411@storefull-3158.­bay.webtv.net...

Snip
P.S. The brakes on the HD's are 4 wheel disc.So of course there gonna be> fine.>


Add comment
Ironheaddave 17 April 2005 20:32:08 permanent link ]
 "Jonathan Race1" wrote: > The only problem I ever had with the front rotors of both my > '88 and my '95 > Chevy's were from over-torquing the lug nuts when the wheels > were put on > every time they were rebalanced and rotated. If I let the guy > doing the > work tighten them with an impact wrench or if he hand torqued > them to 100 > ft-lbs (the recommended torque per the book) then the front > rotors would > warp within 3000 miles. If however I insisted that the > lugnuts be > hand-tightened to only 90 ft-lbs max then I had no problems > for the next > 10,000 miles until the tires got balanced and rotated again. > Whe I replaced > the front rotors on my '88 with an aftermarket brand, the same > problem > persisted, and the same remedy worked. And heaven knows I put > enough miles > on both of those trucks to know. >
Cheers - Jonathan >
"Dennis Mayer" <Polaris1@execpc.co­m> wrote in message > news:425AFD07.CCDA9­2ED@execpc.com... > >
Bill wrote: > &nbsp;>> > &nbsp;>> I`m not sure about the older ones,but my '97 brakes > sucked.GM tried to > &nbsp;>> save a few bucks back then and put smaller rotors on. > >
Also the front rotors were thin and tended to heat > warp.... > >
The 99 & up new body style Chevys were advertised as thick > rotors.. > >
Also the back > &nbsp;>> brakes come out of adjustment alot. > &nbsp;>> I had a good friend take it in to Chevrolet > &nbsp;>> for me and replaced everything from master cylinder > to rear brakes. > &nbsp;>> No change. > &nbsp;>> > &nbsp;>> P.S. The brakes on the HD's are 4 wheel disc.So of > course there gonna be > &nbsp;>> fine.

2004 2500HD crew cab at work needed new rear discs at 12000 miles.
They were chewed up too much to turn.

The dealer put mud flaps in front of the rear tires. They claim
running on county roads got rocks and sand in them and caused them to
wear.

It seems like mud flaps behind the front tires would work.

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CarGuru > 4 x 4 > Chev/GMC brake question 17 April 2005 20:32:08

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